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I am assuming this is soy wax? If so, it is a common issue called frosting. It can be caused by certain FO's and colors, as well as pour temperatures and many other factors. Use the search feature and search for frosting and you will find tons of info on it.

Cheers,

Steve

Edited by Wessex
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It's frosting. There's a lot written about it here in the veggie wax forum. You can research by using the Google site tool (see "helpful Tips for Newbies" in the General Candlemaking section for instructions on how to use the search tools) and looking up frosting and the type of wax you are using. HTH

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Yup. Frosting. Annoying isn't it?!!

If its caused by an additive like color or scent it helps to try out one at a time to determine the culprit so you can eliminate or replace it with a different one.

You can also try different heating and pouring temps. Try to find the manufacturers recommendations to help you get started. Also like Stella mentioned there are lots of posts and info here re frosting and techniques to help prevent it.

If you mention the wax you are using and what you heated and poured at you may get some tips.

Edited by Candybee
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Using GB 464.. Heated up to 150 and then put dye and FO in.. Heated up to 180-185 and backed off the heat.. Let cool down to 150 and poured hot.. I tried using the manufacturers recs on another pour a week ago and did the heat to 180 and added dye and FO and backed off to cool to 130 and poured cooler.. The tops were all mangled with moon craters so I went with a hot pour and it worked quite well except for this frosting on one of them.. Funny thing was, i did two pours with this FO.. One in this jar and one in a mason jar at the same time.. The mason jar is perfect and this one.. Well, not so much :sad2:

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Ummm, washing them will not accomplish anything. Soy wax is polymorphic - it changes crystal form depending on temperature and other conditions. Ever seen cooled shortening in a pan that has a sparkly, crystal surface? It didn't start out in that form, but heating and cooling encouraged the growth of those type of crystals. Same thing with soy wax, which is simply super- hydrogenated soybean oil with a few veggie oils and additives.

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I am absolutely not a soy perfectionist. I use soy. Heat it to temps that the presto says are on the A of wArm, which probably are higher than your temps. I pour at that temp.

I don't have tops problems other than around the wick and sometimes I hit it with a heat gun and sometimes I don't.

I gave up on scenting. I can not get soy to throw no matter what I do.

The only time I had pits in the tops was when I poured cool like you are.

Edited by EricofAZ
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Ummm, washing them will not accomplish anything. Soy wax is polymorphic - it changes crystal form depending on temperature and other conditions. Ever seen cooled shortening in a pan that has a sparkly, crystal surface? It didn't start out in that form, but heating and cooling encouraged the growth of those type of crystals. Same thing with soy wax, which is simply super- hydrogenated soybean oil with a few veggie oils and additives.

I know this is off topic but this reminds me of a thread awhile ago. One of the board members decided to test burn a can of crisco, he put a wick in it and lit it up, he also did that with several other items, wish I could find that thread, does anyone remember that:confused:

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I know this is off topic but this reminds me of a thread awhile ago. One of the board members decided to test burn a can of crisco, he put a wick in it and lit it up, he also did that with several other items, wish I could find that thread, does anyone remember that:confused:

I remember that thread. It was Alan and he used more than a can of crisco to make a candle. Its on the old board. Anyway here it is and its a hoot:

http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=Discussions;action=display;num=1100670458;start=0

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Over and over again, people report that when using 464 or NatureWax C3, pouring hot works best for them ~ 165°F. Also, over and over, people report that pouring slushy works best for them ~ 120-125°F. Anything in between is where problems begin to occur.

I am absolutely not a soy perfectionist... I gave up on scenting. I can not get soy to throw no matter what I do.

Eric, sorry to fuss but, you make statements like that then turn around and give advice??? :shocked2:

Heat it to temps that the presto says are on the A of wArm, which probably are higher than your temps. I pour at that temp.

There is a thing called a thermometer. It should be used in the Presto. One should NOT rely on the "A" of warm on the dial to pour wax! No two Prestos heat exactly the same. Use a thermometer. In the wax. In the pour pot. Temperature is important when making soy wax candles.

I gave up a long time ago on trying to get rid of frost. It's the nature of soy.

People try their best but some give up. It's the nature of humans.

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Meow! Kitty got claws, LOL.

Anyway, not selling soy candles here, have tested different soy waxes but way too much on my plate with my Palm wax line. But all the soy waxes I test poured looked WAY better when poured hot (165-180), with very little or no frosting and no wet spots. Most had good tops, but some had to be hit with the heat gun. Also had really good luck with all the HT. Tested 464, 444, 415 and C-3.

HTH,

Steve

Edited by Wessex
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I remember that thread. It was Alan and he used more than a can of crisco to make a candle. Its on the old board. Anyway here it is and its a hoot:

http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=Discussions;action=display;num=1100670458;start=0

Thanks Candybee, that was some good stuff...lol :laugh2: Its been a while, I'm going to read it again.

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