X-Cel Bleeding

[Jena]

Has anyone else experienced bleeding with X-Cel? If so, what did you do to resolve it?

As soon as my candles are subjected to room temperatures above 82-83 degrees, they break out with sweating/bleeding like you wouldn't believe. I cut my load from 8% to 6% and added Vybar 260 which reduced, but didn't eliminate the issue. I could cut the FO load even more, but I'm worried HT would be eliminated.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

[Sharon in KY]

My wax, 435, did that for 6 months. Just about went nuts trying fixes. Now I'm adding 1/4 oz 135 melt paraffin to every lb. It has stopped but if that's the reason I don't know. Just going to keep adding since it hasn't changed the wicking issue.

[elfcat]

The hottest my house gets is 78. I didn't notice any bleeding at those temps. I use 6% FO. Is it also humid?

[Jena]

Thanks for the feedback Sharon and Elfcat.

Sharon, so the only factor that you're aware of was the addition of the parafin? No significant change in the ambient room temperature? Which parafin wax are you using? I wonder if bees wax, with its higher melt point, might be a natural alternative.

Elfcat - yes it has been more humid lately (80%+), but if you're thinking condensation, I'm not sure. The Vybar reduced the bleeding and it's definitely oil leeching from the wax.

[Sharon in KY]

Mine leaked with the heat or air on even with the windows open. I tried steric, thought that worked, even bought 50 lbs , but they started leaking again.Tried palm and coconut but never tried beeswax or Vybar. I would try beeswax but not too much or you will get a major sinking in the middle of tarts. Maybe start with 1/4 oz per lb and go up or down from there. I use paraffin from KY it comes in pellet form, makes it easy to add. But I keep it melted and then add in my pour/mixing pitcher per lb. Don't add to my larger soy melt pot.hth

[Candybee]

From my own experience and previous posts relating to adding beeswax to soy, the best amount range to add is from 1-5%. If you add more than 5% beeswax per lb you will get some serious cracks in your finished candles.

I am another one who prefers a parasoy mix. I get good results adding a minimum of 25% parafin to soy. This should help with a lot of your problems. If not, up the parafin. Personally I prefer a 50/50 blend parasoy so I get the best of both waxes.

BTW-- I don't use the X-cel or the CBA. I prefer the CB135 and have made the best parasoy candles using this wax with my blend than any other soy waxes I've tried.

Edited July 24, 2010 by Candybee

[Jena]

Thanks, Candybee!

I hear ya on the parasoy. I've been thinking about switching myself. From what I've seen on this forum, it seems like 6006 is a good pre-blend. I'd considering blending my own as I see the advantages of doing that, but I'd prefer to keep it simple if I can. If I do blend my own, I won't be using NGI. I had tried 135 in the past, and while HT was good, I had a hard time overcoming frosting and rough tops. Maybe I could handle its issues better now after gaining the experience that I've had, but to be honest, I've grown weary of the inconsistencies in their (NGIs) products. One batch of wax would be beautiful, the next ugly. Once I had even made 2 batches of the same candles the same day, with the only difference being the batch of Advanced. And the difference in appearance was huge. I wanted to cry. I spoke with NGI and they always blame it on the FO or dyes, even though the only variation has been their wax. Maybe all manufacturers would have the same postion. Either way, I'll be trying another soy manufacturer, either as a stand alone wax or to blend. I had originally traded some HT for appearance, but if NGI can't deliver on appearance, then why use them? It seems like some people like C3 and I'm curious about GB 464. At this point, I'll try almost anything.

In the meantime, I'm going to try adding beeswax and see if that helps me get through the Ex-Cel that I still have.

Thanks again, everyone, for the tips and suggestions. I really appreciate it. :rolleyes2