megfarwell Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 First pic is scented 1 oz per pound of Lavender from Berts, part of a violet dye block. Poured at 190, set on trivet and cooled under box.....forgot to prewarm the container.Second and third pics are scented 1 oz Coconut Lime from Berts, part lime green dye block. Poured at 190, cooled under box, prewarmed jars with heat gun. As you can see, I'm getting pretty distinct bands at the top and bottom of my jars. The lavender I'm not so concerned about because I forgot to warm my jar and I'm sure that had something to do with it. The green jars were warmed, set on a trivet, and put under a box, so they should have pretty even cooling all around. Would the bands on the green jars be because they're cooling too fast at the top and bottom?I think the pattern looks pretty good other than that. On the green jars, I did lift up the box I think 3 times to "wreck" the jars. Please let me know what you think! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TxSioux Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 Wish I could help, but I just started playing w/ this wax & am getting the same thing on the bottoms of mine. I didn't heat the jars, but guess I'll give that a try. Is that a 10oz Libbey cube in the 1st pic? If so, what did you wick it with - I've tried a CSN 16 & had 3.6oz of hangup wax.Susan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 (edited) There is a lot of information on glass glow and pouring temps and techniques in this veggie wax section that may help you get a more even crystal pattern with your jars. One of the techniques is to place your glassware on a cooling rack when pouring so air may circulate around the glass allowing a more even cooling. Another is to place a box over the candles as they cool so the tops don't cool too fast. If either the tops or bottom of the glass cool faster or at a different rate than the rest of the glass it tends to effect the crystal patterns. Edited April 22, 2010 by Candybee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megfarwell Posted April 22, 2010 Author Share Posted April 22, 2010 Yep that is a 10 oz cube.....I made 2 of those and wicked one with CSN 12 and one with CSN 14. I didn't take a picture of them cause the pattern was really really terrible :rolleyes2.I haven't burned the cubes yet, but so far the 14's burning in my straight sided 3 inch jars have been a little too hot, so I'm hoping they will work in the cubes.Guess I'll have to keep experimenting with the cooling! I am really liking this wax so far though. I've tried 3 FO's and gotten great throw from all of them so far.....a much different story than when I was trying soy and couldn't get a throw from anything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radellaf Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 I find palm in general easier and more consistent than soy... My guess with the bottoms there is that it has to do with the thickness of the glass. I bet the preheat didn't fully warm the bottom. Could try sitting the jars in hot water instead of or in addition to hot air. CSN-16 sounds right for the 10oz cube, but maybe not for that scent? Try 22 I guess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megfarwell Posted April 22, 2010 Author Share Posted April 22, 2010 I find palm in general easier and more consistent than soy... My guess with the bottoms there is that it has to do with the thickness of the glass. I bet the preheat didn't fully warm the bottom. Could try sitting the jars in hot water instead of or in addition to hot air. Thanks so much! I never thought of this, but I would just bet you are exactly right. The bottom of the first purple jar was obviously fine, but the bottom on the green jars is much thicker glass, so of course it would take longer to heat up! Plus, I don't think I paid too much attention to the bottoms in the first place. Yay! Will have to try it tonight. :yay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie73 Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 I use the status jars and the bottom is thicker like the jars you are using. I have to pay close attention to heating that part of the jar more with the heat gun, when I didn't, I would have the same problem with it not crystalizing. I put mine on racks to cool, covering the tops with a paper towel. I have tried covering with boxes and I could not see much difference in the crystalization.Some of you that have been working with glass glow may have already noticed this, jars like the hex and jars that have curves seem to get a prettier pattern vs a jar like the status with straight sides.BTW, I think your candles turned out great for your first try! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.