Smooth soy tops

[docskyhawk]

We are having problems getting a smooth top on our container candles. We are using the 464 blend and are trying different types of wicks. We are letting the wax cool to 115 -+5 before pouring. When the candles cool, we are getting a semi rough random tops. We have tried remelting with a heat gun but it just cools the same. Any help would be great. Here is one of the candles we made for a test that has this problem. Ignore the hole, that was a wick problem and we only burned it for a few minutes.

[LuminousBoutique]

Generally, I find any rough tops I encounter are caused by too rapid cooling. I combat this by cooling my jars very slowly, on a rack (like a cookie rack) and placing a box over the top of my cooling candles. Sometimes I will still get a rough top... but nothing a heatgun wont take care of. Alot of people with soy do repours as well... but I've found my method works 99% of the time.

[Stella1952]

How much FO are you using? Dye type & amount?

[mlwilcox2]

Right before I pour (at a slushy stage) I use my heat gun to warm up

my jars a bit. With my wax, I can't use a heat gun to smooth out the tops, it makes it worse.

[docskyhawk]

We are using 1 oz FO per pound and 1 chip of Reddig-Glo dye chip. We are going to try pouring at 100 next and I will also try heating the jars.

[mzpickles]

I use 464 mixed with a small amount of IGI 6006, 1/8 parasoy, 7/8 464. That helps tons with the roughness!

[TxSioux]

Personally -- I do everything warmer, not cooler. I always pour while still liquid, not the cool slushy stage. I almost always get a glass smooth finish. Soy is fickle & there are lots of factors. I'm in Tx & definitely notice I have more problems when there's more humidity. I've also heard others say they have to re-work formulas for high altitude. It's amazing how many simple things come into play when pouring a candle!

Susan.

[nadiap]

I agree with Susan,

Heaps of experimenting with pour temperatures and have finally found that

if I do anything at the 'slushy' stage, all the tops turn out horrid that even the heat gun won't get them as nice looking as they can be.

This is the same whether I used CB135 or the GB464

When poured warmer - generally find that 135* - works better for me. I add colour while wax still still very hot and then add the FO when a bit cooler.

[RichardLOZ]

I am also in the pour warmer category. Although I use a blend of 464 and non crystalising palm, I am generally pouring at around 155 - 160 which is quite hot for soy to be poured, however for my wax blend this works very nicely "most" of the time. I also do not usually warm my jars, however that may have to change as we are coming into winter here.

[SheilaRae]

My candle shop is in my basement and I use 100% soy wax and no dye. I pour at just above slush stage into cold jars. I never have rough tops. Occasionally when in a hurry and I pour to warm I will have to touch up with a heat gun..but not very often.

[JLynne]

I am also one who pours hotter with the 464. I heat to about 185 with about 1/2 of my wax. Then pour in the rest and melt it to 185 again. I add my fragrance and bring it up to 185 again. Then I pour it at about 135 sometimes into warm jars and sometimes not- depends on how cold my house is that day. My tops are pretty good doing it that way. But it's just trial and error.

JLynne

<*)))><

[asands]

My candle shop is in my basement and I use 100% soy wax and no dye. I pour at just above slush stage into cold jars. I never have rough tops. Occasionally when in a hurry and I pour to warm I will have to touch up with a heat gun..but not very often.

SheliaRae,

My shop is in the basement, too. What type of wax do you pour at the slushy stage and get nice tops with?

Thanks...