cryptic Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 Hi, I don't quite understand pouring pots. I have searched these forums, front and back and have read every thread that talked about pouring pots. However, I still don't quite "get it." People have mentioned using the glass measuring cup (but I would prefer not to have to deal with a heating gun, or placing glass in an oven, and all that)...so, what other "pouring pots" do you use? Can anyone post a picture or something so I can see what it looks like?Also, after melting the wax and pouring it into a pouring pot, I guess you add the color and fragrance here, but how do you keep the wax at a certain temperature before pouring it into the candle containers?I am very new. I read that when making container (jar?) candles you have to heat them up first...I would like to make candles as efficient as possible without having to use a heating gun...I'm also kind of nervous putting glass in the oven that's not super thick glassware. Any other alternatives?Advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Margaritamama Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 This is a pouring pot. It can be purchased at most candle suppliers.You put the melted wax (from your presto), or you melt it with the double boiler method on the stove. Add the dye and fragrance into the pouring pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryptic Posted November 29, 2005 Author Share Posted November 29, 2005 THANKS! (ooooooooohhhh, one of those! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatinDucky Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 You will need to keep the pots warm. It's usually done with the double boiler method. Putting the pot/cup inside a pan of water. As for heat guns, if you choose to not use one, that's up to you. But until you have, you'll never realize just how wonderful they can be Ovens... it's completely harmless to put jars in there to warm as long as the temperature isn't set high. Since most ovens don't have numbers below 180 or 200, you can turn the dial just until the light comes on. That's usually before you get to the first number. It's not near as hot as some containers will get with candles burning in them for hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dashmo37 Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 I might add; if the glass is too fragile to be warmed in the oven I would not make a candle in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryptic Posted November 29, 2005 Author Share Posted November 29, 2005 Ok...I think I got the process...I am loosely speaking, meaning I understand some processes are different for each person; I just want to get an idea of how all this information on the boards works together...please feel free to correct me:Okay, first you get a Presto and a double boiler. You melt the wax in the Presto. After wax is melted and reached a certain temperature, place pouring pot in double boiler and heat up. Then you pour a measured (or doesn't have to be measured?) amount of wax from the Presto into the pouring pot. After wax reaches a certain temperature in the pouring pot, add color and fragrance. Mix well. (Wait for wax to reach a certain temperature again?) Heat glass jars a little bit in oven. Then SLOWLY pour measured (is it here that wax is measured?) amount into the candle container.Is this right so far? lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatinDucky Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 I'll give you my view on the steps...~Melt wax in presto to mixing temp or slightly above.~Set pout pot on scale scoop (no spigot here) desired weight of wax into pot.~Set pour pot is hot double boiler. ~Put in thermometer to make sure it's still hot enough for mixing. ~Add FO, stir well. Add color.~Let cool to desired pouring temp.~Pour into wicked container or mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrie Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 I always heat my pour pots in the oven. Never had a problem. I use the regular pour pots and the pyrex glass cups, too. Some people also use glass coffee pots. (The kind that come with the coffee makers.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 Here's one way. Heat the wax in a Presto Pot that you've hung a thermometer in . I usually take mine up to around 190 - 200 and leave it there for about 30 minutes to cook out any impurities (making sure that I keep a check the temp because in Prestos the temp can go up above 200 really fast. You don't want to start a fire or scorch the wax). Then I pour the wax into my pouring pot at around 200 and let it cool down to between 180 and 190, depending on the FO I'm using as some are hard to mix in at lower temps. Then add FO and mix well and add coloring. Then let it cool to the temp you want it to pour at and pour into your molds. I also keep water simmering under a double boiler, just in case I need to warm the mixture up again (eg making layers) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Margaritamama Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 Sorry in advance for hijacking this thread, but I have to give Terrie a shout-out for her avatar!!!! THAT IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE MOVIES....... I can't wait for this time of year to start watching, I even threatened to buy my DH a leg lamp if he was naughty!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryptic Posted November 29, 2005 Author Share Posted November 29, 2005 Thanks SatinDucky, this makes a lot more sense to me now...~Set pour pot on scale, scoop (no spigot here) desired weight of wax into pot. In this step, how do you scoop? Using a ladle? Ahh, a scale. Is "tare" the correct term of the button that calculates the contents of the container? How does the scale know how much the continer weighs to subtract it from the content's weight?~Add FO, stir well. Add color. What do you stir with? Something metal? wooden/plastic ladle/spoon?Thanks all for the suggestions and help Others, feel free to post if you want, I have subscribed to the thread so I will continue reading it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brat Posted November 29, 2005 Share Posted November 29, 2005 I don't know if I'm gonna help you any, but here goes...I bought a small digital scale at Wal Mart. When I weigh my wax, or FO for that matter, I can set the pot or measuring cup on the scale empty, and it registers as zero. It has a little button that you push to set it to zero. I also use wooden spoons and a little butter knife to scrape excess wax off the spoon. If you have a presto and don't want to scratch it up, use the wooden spoons. I normally (and I don't know if it's totally wrong, but it's worked for me) stir the color/FO into the presto, then using the spout, drain it into the pour pot then pour. I use paper towels to wipe up the inside of the presto. Anyway, that's how I do it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debscent Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 I usually take mine up to around 190 - 200 and leave it there for about 30 minutes to cook out any impurities (making sure that I keep a check the temp because in Prestos the temp can go up above 200 really fast. You don't want to start a fire or scorch the wax). What impurities are you cooking out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatinDucky Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 I use a 4C pyrex measuring cup, at least I think it's 4 cup. Something like that. Some do use a ladle, but I don't have one big enough and I'm impatient. Others just pour from the presto itself. I tried that but wax went everywhere ...lol.Since I mix in the pour pot not the presto, it doesn't matter what I stir with. I have a couple long ice tea spoons, a huge slotted one for marbles and oodles of wooden skewers. The skewers are 100 in a pack for just a couple bucks at walmart. I have some that are broken in half and rubberbanded together to hold wicks taut. I also use them for poking relief holes. I love those little sticks The tare function doesn't care how much something weighs. All it does is reset the number to zero. I don't usually bother with that. I set the pot on the scale before I turn it on. It always starts at zero, so it works the same. Though I do recommend weighing everything you use on there separately and making a list. I can't count how many times I've forgotten to zero it out, then had to remove what I was weighing and start over because I had no clue how much the pot or cup itself weighed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 What impurities are you cooking out?Maybe this will help me explain. Never used to do this until I had some "fingernailing" with IGI 1274. People on the board advised me to do this and it seems to work. Have seen the same thing on a few other sites. http://candles.genwax.com/candle_instructions/___0___sqsntpil_make_step13.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatinDucky Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 Maybe this will help me explain. Never used to do this until I had some "fingernailing" with IGI 1274. People on the board advised me to do this and it seems to work. Have seen the same thing on a few other sites. http://candles.genwax.com/candle_instructions/___0___sqsntpil_make_step13.htmI still get fingernailing and no amount of cooking, nor anything thing else suggested has been able to get rid of it. Though it has lessened since the humidity of summer dropped... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryptic Posted November 30, 2005 Author Share Posted November 30, 2005 Maybe this will help me explain. Never used to do this until I had some "fingernailing" with IGI 1274. People on the board advised me to do this and it seems to work. Have seen the same thing on a few other sites. http://candles.genwax.com/candle_instructions/___0___sqsntpil_make_step13.htm Would this apply to 100% soy wax? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryptic Posted November 30, 2005 Author Share Posted November 30, 2005 Right before pouring wax into their containers, I understand the containers must be heated, such as in an oven. How long do the jars need to be in the oven and at what temperature? Are there certain guidelines available? Do the jars need to be just warm, hot, or can they work just fine at room temperature? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatinDucky Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 That's a matter of preference. Some heat, some don't. They don't need to be real hot, and exactly how warm is for you to decide. Try pouring them and see for yourself. You can even do it without wicking just to experiment with the differences. Cools jars usually get the jump lines with small air bubbles trapped. At least mine do. Though I usually use a heat gun, I zap the outside just long enough for the film to disappear and become clear again. Basically about the same as if the wax was poured into a pre heated jar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryptic Posted November 30, 2005 Author Share Posted November 30, 2005 Thanks SatinDUcky for the answer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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