Reheating palm wax...

[akfloyd]

So, I'm pretty new at this, but having fun. I was up late last night reading this forum and noticed that there are a LOT of really knowledgeable folks on here, so hopefully someone can help me out.

I've started using Glass Glow and really love it. But the more I read, the more I understand that the sir pockets are inevitable, which will force me to repour. What's the best way to reheat the remaining wax to do this?:smiley2:

Thanks in advance!

-Allison

[Stella1952]

This always depends on how many will need treatment. I've reheated small amounts in the microwave (take the temp before pouring); in a pour pot on a griddle/electric fry pan; in a pour pot over water; in metal votive molds in electric fry pan w/water...

Personally, I would rather use a heatgun to smooth the top... If you are expecting the palm wax to run down into little relief holes, that will probably not happen. Palm wax solidifies too fast to fill skinny holes all the way to the bottom. IMO, better to do a wrecking job as the candle cools, (so you have no holes to fill). then remelt the top for cosmetics. HTH

[akfloyd]

Thanks Stella! I've been reading your replies to others about the "wrecking job" as the candle cools and I think that's what I'll do!

[akfloyd]

Actually, can you tell me that process again, specifically for container candles? That would be soooo helpful!!!

Thanks,

Allison

[Stella1952]

Everyone has a slightly different method of "wrecking," but here's what I do:

This is basically the same technique as for pillars, but try to be neater so you have less to "clean up" inside the container when you heatgun...

Pour and allow the candle top to cool to about 1/8" or so deep, then take a knife and cut a circle about 1/4"-1/2" from the sides. Cut around the wick then sink the cutout piece of wax deep into the interior of the candle. Do this carefully so the liquid wax doesn't squirt all over the place! Keep doing this at intervals, moving closer to the center each time, until the wax is too slushy and cool to mess with. How many times depends upon the size of the candle. Again, TRY not to make a mess! Palm wax makes giant boogers...

After the candle cools, level the top as best you can (knock off any boogers) and heat gun just until the top levels (don't get too close and burn the wick with the heatgun - keep it moving!).

Whether you heatgun or repour, the crystal pattern after the wax cools will be different from what you see on the sides (or what the top would have looked like before demolition), so you don't want it to make a real visible line along the glass. HTH

Edited October 12, 2009 by Stella1952

[TroyKristoffer]

Hi there!

I've been working exclusively with glass glow since I started and Have sort of a similar variation on Stellas method. I use chopsticks and have lots of fun stabbing my candles to death while they cool... I've found this makes less of a mess, although you still have to be careful because the first vent hole becomes a little mini erupting volcano during subsequent afressive stabs. I've Actually got some wax on my ceiling from it shooting up lol...I get carried away easily.

Anyway, I always save a little of the wax from the same batch while the candles are cooling, and then just reheat it in the pitcher.

Here's a tip I also learned: any extra wax you can't use soon can be poured into silicone muffin baking pans. When it's cooled, you have a perfectly pre mixed "puck" of that scent that will easily pop out of the mold and quickly melt down...

Edited October 27, 2009 by TroyKristoffer

[Candybee]

TroyKristoffer-- I also use chopsticks and poke holes. Yes you do need to be careful of squirting hot wax but it works great. I then heat gun the tops to level and don't have problems with pour lines.

I pour any leftover wax into my fluted tart molds so I have samples of the wax or tarts for myself! The tarts pop right out of the molds when cooled.

[mparadise]

I do the chopsticks and relief holes too but always do the repour rather than using the heat gun because no matter how low I set my heatgun I still end up with an altered crystalization pattern. Because I prefer the larger crystalization like I get on the sides I use the repour method. I just have an extra presto pot without a spigot that I use as a water bath and just pop my pour pot in there. Once I am done with the repours I just use the silicone muffin cups and pour off the rest of the leftover wax to either use in my electric melter at the office or to add to the next batch of that scent.

[Stella1952]

Just make sure that you are not simply poking holes with those chopsticks, but actually wrecking the candle's surface and inner structure where the cavities are forming. Repouring to fill holes is often very dicey because the wax solidifies so quickly (short amount of time between liquid & solid for palm wax) and frequently does not fill the holes all the way to the bottom. Gotta be careful not to heat the entire surface too much, or a line will be visible where the wax crystallizes into a different pattern (usually much finer) from the rest of the candle.

Whatever method works the best and most efficiently for you while still eliminating the air pockets is the one you should employ!

I personally dislike repouring because it gives me an extra chance to screw up a perfectly good candle :embarasse and takes longer to accomplish than simply running the candle over a hot surface (pillars) or heatgunning (containers).