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Wicking various size jars - help please :)


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Hi all,

I seem to have my 5 oz & 10 oz apothecary jars down to a fine art when it comes to wicking them. I am currently using a blend of GB 464 and non crystallizing container palm, and CDN wicks, primarily CDN 10 & 12 in the 5 oz and CDN 22 & 24 in the 10 oz.

Now here is my problem. I am adding to my range 16 oz and 26 oz apothecary jars to complete the line up and I seem to be having a hell of a problem with the wicking. Common sense tells me to begin with the same size that I am using in the 10 oz jars as a starting point and then adjusting from there.

Common sense and the laws of physics also tell me that perhaps I may need to wick down a size due to the fact that as the candle burns lower there could be more heat trapped in the jar thereby possibly requiring a smaller wick to do the same job.

Physics however seems to not be working in this case as from all my testing so far, it appears that I may actually need to wick up a size in order to acquire a FMP and complete burning of wax on the sides of the jar.

For example my blueberry muffin, which burns beautifully in the 10 oz with a CDN 22 is looking terrible in both the 16 & 26 oz jars, using the same size wick. These jars have now been testing for almost 60 hours in total and have yet to achieve a FMP. Yes the sides are slowly melting, but it is not a nice neat look.

Based on the wax consumed so far over 60 hours of testing, I am getting an estimated total burn time of about 110 hours for the 16 oz and 170 hours for the 26 oz.

Does this sound right?

Having said that I have 2 other 16 oz jars testing at the moment, both have tested for 60 hours also and the estimated total burn time on those is 70 hours for the Hazelnut Cappuccino (CDN 24) and 85 hours for the Cinnamon Vanilla (CDN 24). The Hazelnut Cap did develop a FMP after a couple of burns and has cleaned the sides of the jar nicely all the way down. The Cin vanilla is not quite at FMP, but again has cleaned the sides of the jar although not as nice as the other.

I can go up to a CDN 26 or 28 (which are quite hard to find, but I do have now) if need be, or am I just being too impatient with my testing and trying to make my conclusions way too early, prior to reaching the bottom of the jar. :)

Thanks to anyone who has read this essay and who can make any suggestions.

Cheers

Richard

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I was thinking the same thing that these sizes seem so large. I don't know how large the flame is that you are getting, but I've noticed sometimes I can get a fuller melt pool, and a better throw, with a smaller flame. Not talking about a tiny flame, but I don't like mine to get higher than 3/4" or 1" tall.

Most 16 or 26 oz apothecary jars are 4" diameter so you most likely need to double wick at least the scents you are struggling with.

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Thanks guys. The 10 oz, 16 oz and 26 oz jars are all the standard apothecary jars of 4" diameter. Single wicking works just fine in the 10 oz, so given that the larger sizes are the same diameter, just deeper jars, single wicking should also work with those, no?

Richard

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Assuming this is 4" inside diameter, this is where single wicking gets dicey. I use single wick CDNs for that size but others prefer to double-wick. If the mouth size of the 10 oz. is the same for the larger sizes, the same size wicking would be a good place to start. You may have to go up one size... I use a CDN 20-22 for 4" containers. You are correct in thinking that the air currents may be different in the taller jars as the candle burns down. As the candle burns down, true enough there is more heat in the jar; but less oxygen is available and that's where things get a little dicey. Play with it. I'd make three containers and wick one with the wick that normally works for that diameter. Then I'd wick up and down one from that. HTH :)

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Stella

Yes this is 4" inside diameter. When I first started with this jar I was double wicking, but finally got the single wicking worked out. We like these jars particularly as pretty much no one else here in Australia produces these, probably because they are such a pain to get the wicking right, especially if you are going to single wick.

I have done a few of my fragrances so far in the larger sizes. hazelnut Cappuccino was good with the same size as the 10 oz. Gingerbread was not too bad with the same size, although could probably wick that one up a little.

7 Layer carrot cake burns beautifully with the same size wick. Blueberry muffin has been giving me some issues. I use a CDN 22 in the 10 oz and get a great burn, however in the larger sizes the 22 just isnt working, so I will try the 24 and see how that goes. The other one that is giving me grief right now is Apple Jack & Peel, which again burns well in the 10 oz using a CDN 24, however I am not getting a good burn in the larger size jars even with the 24. I am going to try a CDN 26 for that fragrance and see how it goes.

One thing you definitely learn when doing all of your testing is that sometimes, science and logic actually make no sense at all....LOLOL

Thanks

Richard

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  • 2 weeks later...

You mean the CDN 26 & 28 I think. There is a supplier here in Sydney that carries both those sizes. I have bought 20 of each but as yet have not had to use them. At this point in time they may end up in my every growing "will get round to using some day" collection pile of various wicks and sizes. :)

Cheers

Richard

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I have had some trouble wicking those jars using straight soy. This is one of the reasons that we now do a blend of soy & palm, which gives in my opinion and much nicer and cleaner burn. I still get great hot and cold throw and it has drastically reduced my wicking nightmares in the 4" jar. Pretty much every scent we pour in those jars is wicked with either a CDN 22 or 24, except Frangipani which is wicked with a 22 in a 3" jar.

Cheers

Richard

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Science and logic would apply if only we knew what logic to use.

You say that some fragrances burn the same in the taller containers as they do in the shorter ones, while others burn differently. The ones that burn differently have smaller melt pools and leave more hangup. That might suggest that candles made with the problem fragrances are not setting up uniformly. If by any chance the FO is more concentrated towards the bottom of the candle, then the height of the container could make a difference in the burn, and the wax at the top might be harder to melt.

Most other possibilities you could think of would tend to affect all the fragrances, not just certain ones.

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I never thought about mixing palm with the 464...are you mixing a small amount of Palm or are you mixing a large amount of Palm in the 464?? I am mixing paraffin in mine right now...but if I go palm I am back to all natural wax...

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