jen08 Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 Hello! I am new to candle making and was wondering if anyone could help me out with burn test info. I am using 464 with 10% FO. The wick I am using is ECO 16 for a 3 inch container. In my burn tests, the melt pool reaches the full diameter of the container before 2 HRS, and is actually about 1/4 inch deep by the time 2 HRS is up. But at 4 HRS it is only 1/2 deep, which I have heard is ideal. I have also heard that the candle should burn 1 inch per hour, which would mean that my candles are burning entirely too fast. Also, I was wondering if my wick is too big, if it could lessen the fragrance throw. Sorry for the silly questions, but I am a little confused...Thanks for the help!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meridith Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 A wick that is too large can burn off FO needlessly and burn your candle faster. The rule of thumb is it should take your candle 1 hour for every inch diameter of the jar to achieve a full mp. If you thinks its burning too fast, try wicking down a size. But unless its very obvious you wicked too big then keep test burning. Its hard to tell what kind of burn you will get unless you burn the jar all the way down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntoniasCreations Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 Hello! I am new to candle making and was wondering if anyone could help me out with burn test info. I am using 464 with 10% FO. The wick I am using is ECO 16 for a 3 inch container. In my burn tests, the melt pool reaches the full diameter of the container before 2 HRS, and is actually about 1/4 inch deep by the time 2 HRS is up. But at 4 HRS it is only 1/2 deep, which I have heard is ideal. I have also heard that the candle should burn 1 inch per hour, which would mean that my candles are burning entirely too fast. Also, I was wondering if my wick is too big, if it could lessen the fragrance throw. Sorry for the silly questions, but I am a little confused...Thanks for the help!!Ok I dont use your wax or those kind of wicks but I thought I would try to help you anyways. The general rule is 1 inch of the diameter per hour. So if you have a 3" diameter it should take 3 hours to reach FMP. But how was the jar was it really hot or just warm? Some people allow there mp to reach full before the normal time as long as the wick isnt a torch or the jar is really hot. And was this the first burn? Most times you dont want a FMP on the first or even the second burn because that usually means the the last half of the candle will burn REALLY hot. So really you should test all the way down to the bottom to get the real results. Also is there a reason why you use so much FO? Not sure about that wax but most times less is more. I just think you are wasting your money using that much FO. Well I hope this helps you out some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwillo2 Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 I use 464 with a 6% FL and a 3" diameter jar and my wick size is either a 10 or 12. I like to keep my MP around 1/4" deep or otherwise it tends to burn my scent off to quik.Hope this helps! Emily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jen08 Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share Posted February 7, 2009 Thank you for the suggestions! I will test with smaller wicks and see how that goes. I was using 10% FO because I guess 464 can hold up to 12%. I just figured easy math...maybe it is a little overkill. Thanks to everyone for all the help!:smiley2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tootie04 Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Yep...I would cut back on the FO to about 1oz pp....just because the wax can hold that much FO does not mean you have to use that much. Also I wick for the bottom half of the contanier. If you get a FMP on the first burn then more than likely you candle will be too hot in the last half.tootie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jen08 Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 Sorry-I have been away awhile, but I just received my new wicks in the mail...ECO8 and ECO10. I'll try 6% FO and start testing again. My goal...as I'm sure is the same as most...is optimal fragrance throw. So, thanks for the help...I'll let you know how it goes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwn6w Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Hi now I am confused about the burn test. I thought you were suppose to burn the 1st burn until you got a full melt pool to see how long it takes to achieve this. That is what I have been doing. I thought if you had for example a 2.5 inch diameter jar you should burn for at least 2 1/2 hours to see how far along your melt pool is. Have I been wrong in doing this all along? I get quite confused in reading all these different suggestions. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Test burn periods should be 1 hour per inch of candle diameter. Allow the candle to cool completely before trimming the wick and resuming testing. Record your observations from the first burn (diameter/depth of melt pool, flame size, hot throw). Veggie wax candles frequently do NOT achieve FMP on the first burn and often the second; yet as the candle is burned (for the same duration each time), the container will heat up and increase the temp in side during the last half of the burn. This is the point when many veggie wax candles "catch up" and achieve FMP. I agree with the observations of others that your candle is likely overwicked. DO burn testers all the way to the end (unless something is OBVIOUSLY going real wrong) so that you will be able to learn how your candle is going to burn all the way through. We pay a lot of attention to this for safety reasons: a dancle which is overwicked will heat up the container more than is considered safe. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msalex28a Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 I use an Eco 12 for my 3 in jar. But I personally don't care for Eco's. I like LX's better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jen08 Posted March 15, 2009 Author Share Posted March 15, 2009 Well, I'm back...I tried a few different things, and here are my results...I tested Blueberry Cobbler from Candle Science, using 6% FO in 1 lb of 464 in 3 inch containers, so I tested for 3 hours at a time. This is what I found:ECO 8: 1st burn: not quite all the way across, about 1/4 inch deep. By the 3rd test it burned all the way across and continued to burn about 1/4 inch deep until about the 7th test, then it burned between 1/4-1/2. At about the 11th Test it burned almost all the way down.ECO 10: 1st burn: burned 1/2 inch deep. Actually throughout all 11 tests (when it eventually burned down), the melt pool stayed right around the 1/2 inch mark during each 3 hour period. During most of the burns the flame was slightly torchy.I didn't really notice much difference in the fragrance throw, so I'm not really sure which one would be the correct wick...I'm guessing ECO 8? Oh and there's more...I also tested Lilac from Candle Science at 8% FO to 1 lb of 464 and here's what happened with that...ECO 10: 1st test: Melt pool was not quite all the way across. 2nd Test: Melt pool all the way across and between 1/4-1/2 inch deep. throughout the rest of the tests, the melt pool stayed between 1/4-1/2 until it melted all the way down. Fragrance throw was awesome...ECO 12: 1st burn: about 3/8 deep. It burned between 1/4-1/2 inch deep all the other tests...probably closer to 1/2 inch. Torchy flame most of the time. Candle burned completely down long before other candles...so I'm guessing the ECO 10 would be the one to stick with?This may sound lazy...but I need to test several different wick sizes with each new fragrance? If you really read through all of this...I am very greatful...sorry so long!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tootie04 Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 How hot were the containers at 3hrs?? You do not need to test several different wicks with each FO. BUT you DO need to pick one say....ECO 8 and test that one then adjust up or down from there.In my side by side tests I found that the ECO consumes wax faster than the CD's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jen08 Posted March 28, 2009 Author Share Posted March 28, 2009 I forgot to take notes on how warm the candles got, but I don't remember them being too hot. Next time I test, I'll have to pay better attention to that detail. I have heard, too, that other people like the CDs better. I just bought 100 of each of the ECO 8, 10, 14,16 because of a recommendation chart I referred to, of course before I read about the CDs...I am going to test a new scent (Lime Cooler) and I was thinking of using ECO 10 with 8% FO per lb. of wax. The lilac I tested with 8% filled the house...that's kind of why I was thinking 8% rather than 6%. That same test with Lilac achieved a FMP on the second burn. Each time I burned it (3 HRS each time), the melt pool was between 1/4 and 1/2. Does that sound right? Thanks for the help!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyme Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 I don't care for eco's either, I prefer RRD's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jen08 Posted March 29, 2009 Author Share Posted March 29, 2009 Do you use the RRDs in 464? Do different wicks affect the Fragrance throw? I looked at Candle Science and Peaks and did not see CDs. Where do you buy those? I found some Cotton Core wicks in my cubbard from Peaks (C-#) I bought last year and tested. Are they anything like the CDs or RRDs? I tested them with the Peaks fragrances I was using then. I haven't used them in any of the Candle Science fragrances yet. I don't know if I should try and purchase different wicks or if I should continue testing with the ECOs. I didn't really mind them. Out of my last test candles (the Lilac with the ECO 10) I got about 34 hours of burn time. Is that right? I was also thinking about wicking down to ECO 8, but I really liked the Fragrance Throw. The more I ramble, the more confused I get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyme Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 I purchased the RRD's from C&S, but last night I found them for 1/2 the price at JBN (just by nature). Yes I do use them in the 464. When I used the Eco, they seemed to act like a fuse burning deep into the wax, I tried wicking up and the same thing happened. The RRD does mushroom a little but I don't mind it because atleast they pool up nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyme Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 oh yeah I forgot the RRD's described as being similar or the American version of the the German LX wicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debra Phelps Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 I use an Eco 10 in my 9oz jar. I think I am going down to 8 on some. It seems to high. I use 12% in most of mine. There is a soy chart on Lone Stars site. The Ecos are only tested for soy candles. It is a pretty true chart for soy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeniryan Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 I don't know, I use (or was using dang JBN!) the crissa tumblers which are 2.5 inches, and could get away with an eco 8 for some fragrances and a 10 for others, with the 464. Seems like the size wick you're using it way large?... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jen08 Posted April 3, 2009 Author Share Posted April 3, 2009 I checked out the wick chart at LoneStar and it was very helpful...thanks! It made sense, especially in comparison with most of the suggestions I have read. Yay! Right now I have 4 different scents going on their 3rd burn test, testing ECO 8 and ECO 10 in all 4. So far, it looks as though I could even go down to ECO 6 on one. Most of the ECO 8s are starting to "catch up". If only I remember to trim the wicks down before each test...:rolleyes2 Everyones imput has been so helpful and is VERY much appreciated!!! I'll let you know how these burn tests go... Happy burning everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jen08 Posted April 8, 2009 Author Share Posted April 8, 2009 Okay...now what? I've burned the testers most of the way down...some have much more wax left in them than others. Most of them have lots of hang up left on the sides of the jars...except for the ones that were way too hot and wicked too high. It was very frustrating too, that about every other time I trimmed the wick, it would break off and I had to try to light a little nubbin. That would probably contribute to the hang up on the sides? Does anyone else have this problem? I wonder if the tests are sort of invalid now because of the wick being too short half of the time? Aaargh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caramel Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Okay...now what? I've burned the testers most of the way down...some have much more wax left in them than others. Most of them have lots of hang up left on the sides of the jars...except for the ones that were way too hot and wicked too high. It was very frustrating too, that about every other time I trimmed the wick, it would break off and I had to try to light a little nubbin. That would probably contribute to the hang up on the sides? Does anyone else have this problem? I wonder if the tests are sort of invalid now because of the wick being too short half of the time? Aaargh!Oh, jen08, welcome to my world of tester hell... come sit by me- I will share my snacks. *L*I am where you are in the sense that I got the nubby wicks when trimming, at times. I also have gotten weird results with this vanilla-based FO (like you, I am using 464, but my tumbler is a 6 oz with a 2 7/8" dia). Recently, I have been testing ECO10, CDN12-14 and CD 12-14 and almost all of my testers, except the ECO 10's, has lots of hang-up on the jar and barely burn hot enough to achieve a FMP after several 3 hour burn sessions (the glass is barely luke warm). The ECO 10's jar is warm, but comfortable... the only problem is that I think it burns quickly and consumes the wax/FO faster than it probably should; it is much lower than the rest, but never gets deeper than 1/4" and I got a FMP during the 3rd burn session. I think most of the frustration is not really knowing if what you are looking at is correct... even if you are sorta happy with the results, you wonder if it is truly acceptable.*HUGS* Hang in there! Oh and post pics, if you can. It has helped me when asking for help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jen08 Posted April 10, 2009 Author Share Posted April 10, 2009 Hi Caramel! Thanks... I feel a little better..:smiley2: I agree with you on not knowing what exactly is acceptable...although from what I've been reading...it sounds like your ECO 10 is good to go, no? Your result has been my goal...getting FMP around 3rd test, never burning deeper than 1/4" deep... Most of mine are about 3/8" deep at the end of 3 hours...so close...Are you getting a waxy film in your containers? Even in mine that are burning really hot are leaving a film on the sides all the way down. Seems like it should melt off. Maybe it's a soy-thing? :rolleyes2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caramel Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Hey!The ECO 10 tester does have a film. I was not liking it, but it is very thin and as I get closer to the bottom, it seem to get thinner (almost transparent). I am hoping this is a good thing- I will be posting pics soon. The ECO 10 jar is almost gone, hopefully by the end of this weekend. The others finally got a FMP after 6 sessions but there is still thick hang up at the top of the jar... though it is getting thinner, but it is still too much and I don't think the jar will get warm enough to melt it. *sigh*So, once the ECO 10 jar is done, I will pour another two testers and do the "power" burn on one and do another regular burn on the other (to also get the burn rate)... see how it goes. I feel a bit encouraged. *lol* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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