tempering or not tempering

[Ring of Fire]

It's not necessary and it's not even real so don't fret cybersix.

Wonder how we all got along before learning about this tempering. I can't believe any of us have even successfully made a single perfectly burning candle before this came up? :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:

[Rachael]

It was just a blah blah talking with friends.

Here every people know(or will learn) how to work with the wax they use, and I will do the same.

You are correct Cybersix this is all the thread was , and there really is'nt anything for you to be sorry about.

As far as the LX wicks go I went and looked back over my notes

and found that back then they only went up to 22 but like I said that was when I first started 6 years ago so I am sure somethings have changed . But now that I think on it I used them to make pillars mostly AFTER I switched to HTP for containers . Forgot about that since I do mostly containers now and only the pillars on request.

Anyhoo hope this helped ya some and feel free to voice any other

opinions/results you have in the future.

Goose...fra...ba

[cybersix]

It's not necessary and it's not even real so don't fret cybersix.

Wonder how we all got along before learning about this tempering. I can't believe any of us have even successfully made a single perfectly burning candle before this came up? :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:

I'm sorry but I don't know the meaning of "to fret", guess you are suggesting me not to worry, right?

As far as I can tell tempering doesn't have anything to do with a proper burn, but only as aesthetical appearance of soy wax candles.

That is what I wanted to say, the look of candles is the same in these few tests I made...

[cybersix]

You are correct Cybersix this is all the thread was , and there really is'nt anything for you to be sorry about.

As far as the LX wicks go I went and looked back over my notes

and found that back then they only went up to 22 but like I said that was when I first started 6 years ago so I am sure somethings have changed . But now that I think on it I used them to make pillars mostly AFTER I switched to HTP for containers . Forgot about that since I do mostly containers now and only the pillars on request.

Anyhoo hope this helped ya some and feel free to voice any other

opinions/results you have in the future.

Goose...fra...ba

thank you for checking your notes.

This thing about wicks is scary, an LX 28 seems suggested for a 4.5" diameter. I know soy needs to be wicked up, but my tumbler is "only" 3"!!!

[Rachael]

Wow things must have changed I will go to the site and have a look see because the chart I printed out stops at LX22 and it says good for Large containers or pillars aprox 4-4.5 inches in diameter.

I use the 18 or 20 on my 3" diameter pillars depending on the FO/color ( I still color my pillars) anyhoo I will hop on over to have a look see .

Wicks are the ultimate evil LOL

Okie Dokie things have are different lol

seems they have dropped the recommended sizes by one or two sizes

when they added the 24 - 30 wicks . But as I like to have a bit of a wall to contain the melted wax on my pillars I will wait to retest LOL here we go again LOL .....

[Meridith]

I agree Cyber that you should not worry or fret over this thead. It seems only 1 person is upset. If you find that tempering works and you have time for it, then good for you. If you find tempering does not work and/or do not have time for it, then it is still all good.

[Sharon in KY]

Seems like only a few people on this board know how to make candles. The rest of us are dumb asses that have stupid customers. Our customers along with us only like ugly, frosted, bad burning and non smelling candles. What a joke...

[ChrisR]

Seems like only a few people on this board know how to make candles. The rest of us are dumb asses that have stupid customers. Our customers along with us only like ugly, frosted, bad burning and non smelling candles. What a joke...

:laugh2:

[kandlekrazy]

I'm just going to comment on the wicks, LX 28 seems big to me. True wicks burn differently in different soys/blends, but I've used LX's in several soys and never went over an LX 26 in a 3 1/4" container and that was really too big for my comfort zone. Usually a LX 22 or LX 24 are good enough. They may not reach the sides until the 3rd burn, but that is safer IMO than a torch that gets the glass really hot. LX is no longer my wick of choice, but I did go back to my notes to double check since my first thought was 28! Wow!

[Stella1952]

Seems like only a few people on this board know how to make candles. The rest of us are dumb asses that have stupid customers. Our customers along with us only like ugly, frosted, bad burning and non smelling candles. What a joke...

I couldn't agree more! :laugh2:

[cybersix]

I'm just going to comment on the wicks, LX 28 seems big to me. True wicks burn differently in different soys/blends, but I've used LX's in several soys and never went over an LX 26 in a 3 1/4" container and that was really too big for my comfort zone. Usually a LX 22 or LX 24 are good enough. They may not reach the sides until the 3rd burn, but that is safer IMO than a torch that gets the glass really hot. LX is no longer my wick of choice, but I did go back to my notes to double check since my first thought was 28! Wow!

Thanks for your thought.

It seems a bit big to me also, but since this is the first time I work with soy and containers I don't really know.

All I put in the wax is fo, about 6%.

So if the recipe is wrong.. where is the mistake? I tried less FO but can't smell it even it cold throw.

Now I'm going to try CDs and see how things change.

[Ring of Fire]

I couldn't agree more! :laugh2:

me either :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:

[kandlekrazy]

Thanks for your thought.

It seems a bit big to me also, but since this is the first time I work with soy and containers I don't really know.

All I put in the wax is fo, about 6%.

So if the recipe is wrong.. where is the mistake? I tried less FO but can't smell it even it cold throw.

Now I'm going to try CDs and see how things change.

That's about what I use 1 oz fo pp of wax, which is just under 6%. Try a CD 18, may need a 20 with some scents. It would sure be helpful to you if you could find out just what that wax is.

Well at least you can get ideas of what to use in the meantime.

Who are you purchasing your wax from?

[islandgirl]

Yep Cyber.. Do what works for you.. Take everyones suggestions and tweak it to your liking.

I don't make my soy candles the same way as others.

Mine always get a FMP the first burn. I don't like the lets play catch on the the next 2 or 3 burns.

I don't temper, heat my jars in the oven, cover them with boxes to cool.

I don't like to poor slushy. I don't like to use UV.

I don't temper.

I have tried many of these, but they don't work for me.

I found my own technique', wax blend, FO % to use, and burning properties that I am happy with. That is what matters..

There is no right or wrong in this craft, there is no perfect candle, just trial and error.

To heck with what others think and post.

I read it, learn, and choose how I want to use the information, if I do at all.

If I am happy and my customers are happy..

Then today is a good day!!!

[geekrunner]

Wow! I thought I was bad for flaming noobs!

Hello to all! Been away for awhile building and racing my mountain bikes, but candle testing continues.

As far as tempering goes, it is probably more work that anyone really wants to do, especially if you're selling alot and your time is valuable. It is a valuable exercise, though, for those who may be just beginning and in the early testing phase of candle making. Tempering can mean different things to different people. For me, I want perfection, but my customers don't mind a little frosting. They are bowled over by the awesome hot throw. My version of tempering is to first pour the candles, and let them set up so they won't slosh around when I move them. I then preheat my oven to about 125, turn it off, and place my candles in it and let them cool down gradually. It remelts them somewhat, then they set up again.

I do like to experiment, though. My most recent experiment was to do a 2:1 402 with MillCreek pillar/votive blend. Absolutely no frosting, and no wet spots, even in a chilly basement! I even put the candle in my refrigerator overnight, and it came out as beautiful as it did going in. I used the boldest colors I have. The hot throw was not quite as good as my regular blend, but I'm now working on how little of the MC pillar blend I can use and get the same result.

As always, I remain your geek

[cybersix]

hey geek!!! long time no see!! I'm glad you're back!! Thanks for sharing your experience!

I will see and work and everything, until I'll find my way.

:wave:

[stacien]

I think people get a misconception of what tempering is. Geek comes probably the closest. It's a crystallization process in the actual oil or fat of the wax. Since soy wax is the closest to chocolate they have similar properties that respond best when tempered. When the wax is heated the molecules of the wax bounce off of each other madly. As any heated liquid would react. However when soy wax cools it crystallizes causing the molecules to bind. Heating and pouring the wax without any interference causes the wax to form crystals that don't bind as close together that give the wax a softer duller oilier surface to the touch. But when you let the wax cool and reheat it again keeping it in perpetual motion. Say until about 100 degrees then pour. The crystals bind closer together giving the wax a smoother harder texture. It's not made up. I actually discussed this with Jason at GB a few years back and he tested this theory. Now throw some additives into the equation and it doesn't hold the same, but for straight up soy it does. I myself do see a difference from when I do take my time with the wax than when I get lazy and just melt and pour. It does make a harder surface for me. I also work with chocolate. The double boiler method, and chocolate has to be kept in constant motion to keep it from hardening too quickly. I have noticed the same with 415 when I work it the same way.

It's your preference but it's not a made up theory.

[cybersix]

That's about what I use 1 oz fo pp of wax, which is just under 6%. Try a CD 18, may need a 20 with some scents. It would sure be helpful to you if you could find out just what that wax is.

Well at least you can get ideas of what to use in the meantime.

Who are you purchasing your wax from?

Sorry it seems I missed two posts LOL!!

CDs are on their way, in the mean while I prepared some tumblers with no wicks, because this I noticed by myself, after some days I could smell a stronger col and hot trhow from my candles. So these will be cured a bit by the time I'll have wicks in my hands. I used a CD 14 that was hiding behind a box (he was so lonely he was scared LOL) and I have to say that it's burning "wider" than an LX. But, when the candle cools after burning, the wax is ugly, with some hole (no deep holes) and flaws, while LXs don't do so. Don't know why. The CD curled a lot, and mushroomed, while the LX didn't.

I'm purchasing wax from the only italian importer of palm and soy waxes, but they won't tell me which soy is. Theu only told me it's an all soy wax, with no additives.

This is how things work here, take it or leave it.

It has to be an american wax because it seems US are the biggest producer of soy waxes.

Thanks!

[cybersix]

Yep Cyber.. Do what works for you.. Take everyones suggestions and tweak it to your liking.

I don't make my soy candles the same way as others.

Mine always get a FMP the first burn. I don't like the lets play catch on the the next 2 or 3 burns.

I don't temper, heat my jars in the oven, cover them with boxes to cool.

I don't like to poor slushy. I don't like to use UV.

I don't temper.

I have tried many of these, but they don't work for me.

I found my own technique', wax blend, FO % to use, and burning properties that I am happy with. That is what matters..

There is no right or wrong in this craft, there is no perfect candle, just trial and error.

To heck with what others think and post.

I read it, learn, and choose how I want to use the information, if I do at all.

If I am happy and my customers are happy..

Then today is a good day!!!

Hi, sorry I didn't read this post!!

One thing I learned about the wax I have is that I have to pour slushy, i did some test with pouring temps but no way, if I pour hotter it developes cracks and pits.

Now I know that tempering (if this is what i did) doesn't seem to affect the look or behaviour or candles in the immediate term, I need to set some aside and see if they act strange after weeks or months.

Thanks again for all the experience you all share, I love this board!

[islandgirl]

Hi, sorry I didn't read this post!!

One thing I learned about the wax I have is that I have to pour slushy, i did some test with pouring temps but no way, if I pour hotter it developes cracks and pits.

I don't pour slushy ONLY because I mix the 415 and C-3, which allows me to pour hot. When I used the straight 415, I did have to pour slushy or my candles did not set up right and did look ugly.

It drove me crazy having to wait to the slushy stage..

But mixed with C-3 I can pour hot now!! HTH:D