What pillar wax do you use?

[Soja]

I'm thinking of trying some other kind of wax. (I've been using 1343)

I'd like to hear what kind of wax you use and how it works... I do mostly pillars/chunks/tilted rustics.

I know there is a little blurb by each wax telling me what it does but I'd like to hear from experience what, how, etc.

Thanks.

Soja

[Stella1952]

I use palm wax for pillars.

[topofmurrayhill]

It's hard to answer this question unless you give us a little idea of what your objectives are.

It seems to me you're already using an appropriate material if you like to do rustics and chunkies. If you want to try another type of plain paraffin you could get some other 138-140 MP wax, maybe from DPS/Morris or Candlewic.

If you haven't practiced much using additives, it might be good to branch off into that. A preblended wax is just gonna be something similar to what you're using plus additives already in it, but I think you're better off learning to use them yourself.

If novelty is what you're after, you could take Stella's suggestion and try some palm pillars. CandleScience is a great source for palm wax and Candlewic is a possibility too. The advantage of palm is you don't have to obsess over getting them to burn perfectly, because they never will. They sure look cool though.

One final possibility is soy pillars, or you could just shoot yourself in the face instead.

[Pam W]

Soja,

I used to use 1343 but switched to GL's M20 Mottle wax because it wasn't as prone to that bulge that I got with 1343. I didn't see any difference in the finish of the rustics and/or layers between the two waxes. My only real complaint about both of these waxes is that they don't hold much more than 4% FO. Even with additives, I get a lot of seepage of FOs and color, especially the heavier oils.

I tried a slab of Peak's 1274 and was happy with the rustics and layers. It does hold the FO better with far less weeping and with a few of the oils I've tested so far, I got a better throw. 1274's mottling takes longer to appear than the GL M20. M20 is fully mottled when unmolded, 1274 continued to mottle for a few hours after unmolding. Since these two waxes are so similiar, I didn't have to change any wicking. HTH

[Soja]

Pamw...

Thank you so much for your input. This is exactly the kind of information I'm seeking. Since you have used GL wax, do you know if this additive of theirs works?

Polyboost 150

This is our NEW additive that is all the rave. This additive absolutely works. Made to reduce or eliminate the seepage experienced with many pillar waxes. Polyboost 150 works with mottling pillar waxes and increases its ability to hold more fragrance oil.

Topofmurrayhill....

I've done palm pillars before my forced hiatus. Do a search of my posts and see what I've done. I got them to burn fine with LX wick.

Pamw had the right idea. I'm just wanting to expand and try different waxes that have better characteristics. I do additives but am unhappy with some of the effects that a change in wax could fix.

A long while back you posted a red mottle that was extra beautiful. This is the kind of mottle I want to get. I also want a better scent throw than I get with IGI 1343 even with additives. Really translucent wax for chunk pillars is on the list too.

One final possibility is soy pillars

Can you fill me in on your experience with Soy please? Never tried it.

or you could just shoot yourself in the face instead.

As attractive as this suggestion is, I'm gonna have to pass on it. Thanks but no thanks.

Thank you as well for your input.

Soja

[topofmurrayhill]

If you're interested in mottling, IGI 1274 and CW 4045H are certainly a few to experiment with. I haven't tried the one GL is selling.

I would tend to disagree with generalizations about how these waxes mottle. It's true they all behave differently, but exactly how they behave can be greatly affected by small variations in pouring temp, mold temp, cooling temp, fragrance or additives. The instructions you usually see for making mottles are too general. You have to mess around with those variables to get control of the results and make the wax do what you want. Your candle never has to continue mottling and weeping after it comes out of the mold. You've usually got a better formula and/or procedure if it's stable when demolded.

Polyboost 150 is an S&S Chemicals product and a few other suppliers carry it too. S&S makes all kinds of Vybar alternatives. Mottling additives like Vybar 343 and Polyboost 150 are generally overhyped. If you make partially mottled candles, they're of no use at all. Stearic acid allows you to adjust the aesthetic/burn qualities and get a dry stable surface out of the mold, plus it doesn't cause all the bad side effects the other additives do. You should be accurate with the amount you use and test different levels.

I don't have much experience making candles that are 100% mottled because they don't interest me. It's possible there's some advantage to using the mottling additives without stearic when you're going for a 100% surface mottle. That's mainly what they were tested to do, but whether they work better than stearic in that situation is an open question.

[Cc Candle Supply]

I tried a new blend this year seems to be working very well. I use 12 oz straight 141 mp paraffin with 4 oz stearic and 1 tsp vybar 130. Will require a repour posibly 2.

Votives def need 1 but the larger pillars do require more. The fragrance load is about 6% has a nice creamy smooth side and releases from every mold we tried with ease.

HTH