IGI 6006 question

[wicked1]

I am so frustrated by the huge (I mean HUGE) sink holes in my containers. I read about this in the archives, but there were no hints on preventing these. I have tried just about everything I can think of. I've tried heating the jars different temps, pouring different temps, cooling slowly, cooling VERY slowly. I really like all other aspects of this wax. Since I can buy it locally, I am hell bent on getting it down. Any hints would be appreciated.

Thank you!

[shafferbuns]

Keep in mind I'm new to making candles:

I'm using 6006, and this is what I do...

I leave a little wax in the pan when i pour,

When the candles have cooled some and top is firming up, I take my thermometer and poke holes all in the top and make it look awful, then I heat the wax in pan back up and pour it again, (topping off or repour) I guess that's what it's called. Anyway, it usually gives me a nice smooth top without sinkholes. btw, I noticed a lot of times when i grouped my jars together to cool, the sinkholes were worse I think so I don't bother doing that anymore.hth

[topofmurrayhill]

Have you tried *not* cooling slowly?

I don't use this wax but time and again it has taken me longer than necessary to fix a problem because the solution turned out to be counterintuitive, so it would be the last thing I tried.

[wicked1]

Thanks for your replies. Unfortunately, I usually always take the hardest way around everything!! Seriously though, I will even have a jar or two in the bunch that will be ok. Yes, I have tried NOT cooling slowly, still funky holes. I just thought since it is supposed to be a one pour that maybe I was missing something...I think I will just have to give into the repour:sad2:

Thanks guys

[bugtussle]

I have been using it for over 2 years and it pours perfect in tins, but glass containers over 10 ozs are totally different. I do not heat my containers, I pour at about 175 degrees, pour several at a time and then cover with a large plastic box turned upside down (the bottom of a storage box.) I've had good luck with this, no caving at the wicks. When I am pouring only 2 or 3, I pour on a heating pad set on medium. When the top has set, I turn it off, no caving. I believe the candles cool too quickly from the bottom and this causes the sink hole. 6006 is a wonderful wax and I will go out of my way to make it work.

[wicked1]

I will try your method. I am battling an 8 oz. mason right now. I don't usually pour too many at once. I will try the heating pad for sure. Thanks for the help!

[Auntie A]

I am so happy to here from 6006 users. It is my choice wax by far! I only do 8 and 16 oz mason jars, using 44, 51 and 60 zinc wicks, and this wax has proved to be wonderful in every aspect when used in these applications. However, I ONLY use wide mouth jars b/c I had so many issues with the whole height vs. width scenario. I NEVER have sinkholes or need to repour on my 8 oz. but do with the 16 oz. Again, the height vs. width thing. I just let them set completely, poke 2-3 holes around the wick with an upside down cylinder shaped handled spoon, then heat with a heat gun. Works beautifully every time.

BTW, with the wicks, I have found that the heavier (or darker) the oil, I have to wick up to 51 or 60 to prevent the wick from drowning out. Also, anything with a vanilla base (most bakery f/os) need to be wicked up.

Sorry for rambling~I just had to pipe in since I felt your frustration.

Happy pouring!!!

Auntie A

[Wintergreen]

Wicked1... any update on the heating pad method? I am new to candle-making and also am using the 6006 wax in glass jelly jars. Same issue... major sink holes. I was feeling especially inadequate because this is a "one-pour wax"! I am all about tricks that make things work, though!

[Gypsyjen]

I don't use this wax, but used to get big sinkholes in C-3. Then I realized the problem was, I was filling the jar past the neck where the jar gets narrower (I was using apothecary's). Once I started putting less wax in the jar, the sinkholes were gone.

[bugtussle]

I poured over 600 11 and 20 oz tureens on the oversized heating pads from WalMart. I ended up getting 4 pads because I was pouring so many at once. YES, it works great!!!

[kwillenborg]

I don't use this wax, but used to get big sinkholes in C-3. Then I realized the problem was, I was filling the jar past the neck where the jar gets narrower (I was using apothecary's). Once I started putting less wax in the jar, the sinkholes were gone.

I'm new to this adventure and read the message board daily. I don't use this wax, but EcoSoya CB135 and I have the same problems........never have I read about filling the jar past where the neck narrows.......but it makes sense as I think about some past batches that I've poured.......BUT I use the 8 oz square mason jar and for it to be an 8 oz candle and for it to look good, it must be filled.............any other suggestions????

[wicked1]

I gave up on the square mason jars. I poured some for Christmas scents, but had to zap every stinkin' one of them with a heat gun. Yes, I did try the heating pad trick. It did work....I am now just pouring my tumblers and they're working MUCH better.

[SatinDucky]

This must be one of those things about the nature of soy. But it sure does baffle me. Keep in mind, this is my paraffin logic going on here. If you do everything the exact same, but put a heating pad under one until the top forms and do nothing to the other one. The non heated ones makes a sinkhole. Logic tells me that would be because the top has become too solid to collapse when the heat is removed and the cooling/shrinking begins. The same logic tells me that the wax is going to cool/shrink anyway. If the top is too sold to be pulled in, then air pockets should form under that surface.

Now, can someone explain to me why this works with soy(that air pockets don't form)?

[topofmurrayhill]

This must be one of those things about the nature of soy. But it sure does baffle me. Keep in mind, this is my paraffin logic going on here.

Let me tell you now...when it comes to pouring and cooling soy, your paraffin logic is of no use.

Paraffin is a different animal entirely. It shrinks and expands with temperature more than just about anything. When it's congealing, it also has a stretchy Silly Putty phase that lasts a long time.

Soy based waxes don't shrink anything near as much while cooling. They do shrink a little bit though, but you don't have that major stretchy phase so they crack and pit at the last moment as they crystallize.

How to make it come out right with different brands of wax in different containers is unpredictable. Chemically it's a complicated wax compared to paraffin and the different makeup of each brand gives each its own personality. You just have to learn how to make yours work.

With 2 different soy waxes poured into the same container, one may work best poured very cool as it's congealing and another might work best poured at 160. Some just don't work period, at least not on their own.

[SatinDucky]

Let me tell you now...when it comes to pouring and cooling soy, your paraffin logic is of no use.

I was afraid you were gonna say that! LOL I can tell right now, my mind is going to have a hard time wrapping around this soy business :embarasse

The two I poured from the same pot last night, one at 110, one at 125 came out completely different. The cooler one had just a hairline crack around the outside, close to the edge and one around the wick. The warmer one had a 3/4" hole. You could look down in the cavern, it spead almost all the way to every edge in there.

Sorry, didn't mean to highjack the thread.