What if...formula?

[LPENDA]

If the absolute only considerations were scent throw and complete melt pool, what would you recommend as a base wax or wax blend?

Thanks!

LP

[Tereasa]

awww... isn't that a cute question?

you see, there are so many factors to a good scent throw and complete melt pool.... wicks, for instance. There are countless waxes that have incredible throw. It's just a matter of finding the right wick, fragrance oil, pour temperature, additives, skill of chandler, cooling technique, barometric pressure, etc. etc.

There is no miracle wax.

[LPENDA]

Thanks, I was shooting for cute!

I use HTP (mainly), CD and Eco wicks sized to fit container and wax(s) used. The containers I am trying to use now allow me to not consider frosting and other cosmetic issues. Currently using a custom blend soy (135) and paraffin.

Just thought someone might have suggestions as to how to improve. Would prefer using less para.

Have tried Crisco, cotton seed oil.

[Carriegsxr6]

C-3 is good for me. Great burn and scent throw with HTP wicks. I dont color mine, so i dont need to worry about frosting or wet spots.

[Stella1952]

If the absolute only considerations were scent throw and complete melt pool, what would you recommend as a base wax or wax blend?

HT and "complete melt pool" have very little to do with the brand of wax, so I couldn't answer this. The wicking has huge amount to do with those two issues...

[LPENDA]

Stella- Actually, I don't disagree. But, I think wax formulation is critical and much harder to calibrate than wick type/size. After awhile, you get a good "feel" for the kind of wick you need depending on container size/type and wax. Also, it's simple to test wicks and much harder to hit the right wax blend. I can appreciate your perspective, but the real issue I'm trying to tweak is wax orientated.

I am aware of the other parameters that impact a candle's characteristics.

Carrie-I have some C3 but it's about 6 mos. old and I'm afraid it won't be a valid test. Might be dried out too much. Will have to try it again. Thanks so much for your help!

I was hoping to find some additional tips on blending. (Minus the consideration of wet spots or frosting). I have found Coconut Oil helps with throw, but because it makes the wax harder, the melt pool is negatively affected.

[Judy, USMC]

I'm not a chemist. I don't have time to play researcher. Finances limit my investment into raw materials. Therefore, I can only recommend that your first best step might be to look for a company that has the talent and financial backing that advertises a product close to what you need...then tweak it from there.

[justcountry]

:rolleyes2 the one million dollar question and I wish I knew the answer:shocked2:

[Carriegsxr6]

Carrie-I have some C3 but it's about 6 mos. old and I'm afraid it won't be a valid test. Might be dried out too much. Will have to try it again. Thanks so much for your help!

Wax doesnt go bad in 6th months, you should be fine. Wax sometimes sits on the distributors shelves for longer than that. My last case was pretty dryed out feeling. The new case I have now is more oily feeling. Both still burn the same to me.

[Stella1952]

Wax doesnt go bad in 6th months

Paraffin may not, but soy-based waxes are VERY sensitive to four things, according to the oleochemist with whom I spoke a few weeks ago: oxygen, light, moisture and temperature. He remarked that "das why" his company packages their product in a colored, heavy plastic bag in a solid carton - keeps out the light, oxygen and moisture. The heavy container helps to resist brief temperature variations. If one has kept their wax carefully shielded from air, light and heat, it should be fine for quite a while. I used to pour mine into a Sterite tub, but it is transluscent and when the wax level is low, lotsa air room, so I have gone back to keeping mine in the carton. Have never had a problem thus far...

but the real issue I'm trying to tweak is wax orientated.

I guess I am still confused (sometimes it goes on for days...:rolleyes2) - is your "real issue" hot throw and a full melt pool? If so, proper wicking should resolve that difficulty... not enough wick, no FMP, no HT; too much wick and plenty of melt pool with no throw...

I researched and decided to go with NatureWax C3 because of their research and availability. There are other good products - ecosoya and a couple of others, that may be available in your area that do a good job also. The main thing, IMHO is to make a decision and stick with it. Try different additives to correct problems; try different wicks until you come up with one kind that work consistently well for you. Choose a narrow range of suppliers from whom to buy FOs - I think there is a LOT of variation in this ONE ingredient that can turn all your good work with wax formula and wicks to sh*t in one fell swoop. All FOs are NOT created the same! There will be MANY that don't work well with any given wax/wick combo. I don't tailor my candle formula and wicking just so it'll work with a cool FO I got from XYZ supplier; I purchase my FOs as to what works well with my wax & wicks. If I really like a FO that isn't working well, I look for the same thing from a different source - sometimes it makes ALL the difference... BUT I also don't lose any sleep if I cannot find a better source because there are so MANY FOs from which to choose! It seems like the tail waggin' the dog to upset the applecart for ONE FO...

I dunno if this is what you were looking for... There is another thread running on the general candlemaking board as to whether people pick one wax and wick and tailor everything else to those constants which might be of interest to you. http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62349

HTH

[LPENDA]

Thanks for the input, Stella.

My problem is adjusting to the new container. Think I'm finally there!

Again thanks to everyone, who took the time to write, for the ideas.