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Wick Problems


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Hi all,

I am really having problems with tunneling. I am cureently testing with GW444 wax and HTP wicks. I am using a 9oz balmoral jar. The first wick I used was 41 and was told the wick was to small and to go up to 83. I got the same result. I have since tried 73 and yesterday 62. The result is the same. I only have one more size to go down before I am back at 41.

Should I go with a different brand of wick? Should I wick up again?

I have a sample pack of ECO that I haven't tried yet so that's what I will probably be doing this weekend. But I like the HTP's because they don't mushroom.

Since I started using the coconut oil they are setting perfectly. No bubbles, no holes =ing no repores or topping off. The scent throw is not to good (very light), but I am more concerned about this major tunneling issue right now. Once I get the wicks straight I turn the scent throw.

Could someone please help me by answering the questions above or let me know what has worked for you.

Hugs and kisses

Tasha

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Yes, HTP wicks are great for soy. I think the point Kristi was making is that unless a company specializes in soy wax and supplies, the wick size recommendations are usually for paraffin, not soy (even if the company sells soy wax, too). For example, Peak says HTP-104 is good for candles 3.25-3.75" in diameter, but in my tests that wick is too small for a 3.125" tin. You'll probably need a wick a size or two larger than their recommendations.

What is the inside diameter of your jar?

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That's the part I have not figured out yet, because the jar is shaped funny. It is 2.5 across the top. I got the jar size for the wicks from Peaks also and that is how I am choosing which wick to use. That's how I ended up wicking down instead of up. They list 2 different sizes (52&72) for a jar like the one I am using

Tasha

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And I had better luck with CDs than HTPs... in fact, I LOVE my CDs...

For wicking with the tapered jars, don't worry about hangup on the first part- it catches up by the bottom. You WANT extra wax around the tops since it will burn so much hotter at the bottom, otherwise you'll soot.

-Kristi

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yes. But I was only adding the recommended amount. I'm going to take this one step at a time. Learned the hard way to take my time get one part right and then move on to the next step.

Tasha, I think what CareBear was trying to say is that wick size has a HUGE amount to do with hot throw, so before you add MORE FO (a common mistake), keep working on the wicking. As Kristi reminded, a full melt pool is NOT the best indicator of proper wicking for a container. It needs to be burned all the way down to assure that the wicking is correct for the bottom half of the container. A quick FMP is NOT desirable with veggie wax candles, as veggie waxes burn much slower than does paraffin. The second or third burn is fine for achieving the FMP.

Personally, I never use more than 1 oz. pp of FO - it is a waste of money to do so. Either my wicking is off or the particular FO I am using is a dud and I find another source for it. Adding more than that to soy candles IMHO, even with additives, is asking for other problems such as frosting, huge 'shrooms and other issues with which you do not want to have to contend. HTH :)

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I think what CareBear was trying to say is that wick size has a HUGE amount to do with hot throw...

Actually I was more asking than telling - so thank you for clarifying Stella - you are a huge help as always.

Now if only you could give me some insight on my son's issues at school... LOL!

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Hey Ladies, hows it going?

It's not that I misunderstood what Carebear was saying it's just that the tunneling issue was giving me such a headache I wasn't paying attention to the scent throw. Now that I've got that straight I can focus my attention on that. I have noticed that the cold throw is very light and the hot throw is not much stronger. I am going to try another scent and order some of the same scents I have been testing with from a different supplier.

Have a great day,

Tasha

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