cybersix Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 I'm testing the votives I'm making, I'm using pretabbed LX wicks. The wick is centered, no problem, but I let a votive burn for two hours so it had half an inch of melted wax... and I noticed the wick was bending.. I blew it out and tried to straighten the wick, but until the wax was liquid it remained bent and off center. So now the votive has the wick off centered. What should I do in this situation? Is it correct power burning a votive? Remember, never seen a votive in all my life! TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 It's normal for small braided wicks to curl. In such a small container it can still work OK if it's a little off center.Opinions seem to differ on how votives should be tested. Some people set a time limit as with other candles. I've seen a number of them that will get big flames if you burn them too long. Personally I try to make it so you can light them and burn them all the way down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cybersix Posted August 29, 2007 Author Share Posted August 29, 2007 thank you Top, I saw it wasn't a big problem when I let it burn. Still testing them because I get high flames and I'm not used to LX.ehm ehm whaile you are here can you give me an opinion about this?http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57576Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 ehm ehm whaile you are here can you give me an opinion about this?http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57576Thanks!This kind of thing can be difficult to diagnose from a distance. You'll hear all the different ways people solved their problem, but you don't know who had your problem.The pits and "flat bubbles" in the second set look like too much heat. Maybe the molds were too hot. Be careful also about overheating the candle mixture or mixing FO in the Presto. The bottom of the pot can be very hot if it's been on recently -- you don't want the FO to touch that.The wax in the votive molds cools fastest around the base of the wick pin. If it doesn't become all liquid down there after you pour, you'll get some rustic or bubbly effect around the bottom of the candle. If you see that and pouring 5 degrees hotter makes it go away, you know you were pouring too cool.One concern at this time of year can be the humidity. I do suggest you try to give the molds and pins a little baking with dry heat from your heat gun, not for pouring but rather to drive off any moisture. Then let them mostly or completely cool before pouring.Keep it as simple as you can. It doesn't pay to make things overly complicated for producing these stupid little candles. When you have a good procedure you should not need to tap them. "Burping" the wick pins does nothing except give you more wax to clean out from under them.Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cybersix Posted August 30, 2007 Author Share Posted August 30, 2007 This kind of thing can be difficult to diagnose from a distance. You'll hear all the different ways people solved their problem, but you don't know who had your problem.The pits and "flat bubbles" in the second set look like too much heat. Maybe the molds were too hot. Be careful also about overheating the candle mixture or mixing FO in the Presto. The bottom of the pot can be very hot if it's been on recently -- you don't want the FO to touch that.The wax in the votive molds cools fastest around the base of the wick pin. If it doesn't become all liquid down there after you pour, you'll get some rustic or bubbly effect around the bottom of the candle. If you see that and pouring 5 degrees hotter makes it go away, you know you were pouring too cool.One concern at this time of year can be the humidity. I do suggest you try to give the molds and pins a little baking with dry heat from your heat gun, not for pouring but rather to drive off any moisture. Then let them mostly or completely cool before pouring.Keep it as simple as you can. It doesn't pay to make things overly complicated for producing these stupid little candles. When you have a good procedure you should not need to tap them. "Burping" the wick pins does nothing except give you more wax to clean out from under them.Good luck!Clear as water, I don't want to go crazy about these stupid little candles LOL, infact I rarely go crazy with pillars (unless I'm experimenting as you well know).But I never seen such a thing so I didn't know exactly how to manage it. The first time I poured at 176 the mold weren't heated, the second time I heated the mold but let them sit before pouring room temp was high anyway) and poured at 185 and the results are the same.Now that you talk about humidity maybe it could be the reason of the problem, in these days we have a deadly high humidity here.Thank you Top, you're kind as always! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 "Burping" the wick pins does nothing except give you more wax to clean out from under them.Good luck!Actually you're wrong. I don't get any more wax under there than if I don't. However, wick pins can trap air and the bubbles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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