CP cutting and unmolding issues, recipe?

[AkainePSP]

Hi Everyone! I have the misty creek 15 bar mold which I love, however something I noticed and maybe it's my recipe, (I'll post that as well) is that when I cut and unmold it is soft towards the bottom and sticks to my freezer paper. This last batch I let sit for 3 days before I attempted to cut and unmold. Any ideas why this would happen? After it cures it makes a wonderful bar of soap. it's just cutting it and getting it out of the mold. Does the humidity have anything to do with this we have had terrible humidity for the last week. Thanks- Kelly

27 oz. Lard

13.5 oz Coconut Oil

6.75 oz. Castor Oil

6.75 oz. Sunflower Oil

1 oz. Mango Butter

1 oz. Shea Butter

18 oz. Water

7.6 oz. LYE

[Tara]

I have that same mold and don't have a problem. I read somewhere that Sunflower Oil makes for a softer soap but then you have the mango and shea butter in there so I don't know. Not sure it's the humidity. I am in Florida and it's very humid here right now. I always do a water discount too so I don't know if that would make a difference. Maybe someone else will chime in that knows better than me.

[AkainePSP]

What is the purpose of a water discount? And if I was doing this what is a safe amount to do this with?

[Soapmaker Man]

What is the purpose of a water discount? And if I was doing this what is a safe amount to do this with?

A lot soap with a 33% lye solution. If you want a deep discount, up it to a 35 to 37% lye solution. The 33% is a starting, decent discount. Never go over 40% lye solution, as it is not safe.

ETA: The reason for a water (or any liquid) discount is multi fold. The main reason is to reduce curing time. Another is to avoid warping of your bars. Too much liquids can cause that.

Paul....

[AkainePSP]

Now when you say 33% lye solution what is meant by that? Is that 33% LYE and 67% water? I've made maybe 10 batches of soap. So I am still learning. Also what is the purpose of the water discount?

A lot soap with a 33% lye solution. If you want a deep discount, up it to a 35 to 37% lye solution. The 33% is a starting, decent discount. Never go over 40% lye solution, as it is not safe.

Paul....

[Soapmaker Man]

Now when you say 33% lye solution what is meant by that? Is that 33% LYE and 67% water? I've made maybe 10 batches of soap. So I am still learning. Also what is the purpose of the water discount?

Yea, a 33% lye solution is 2 parts (by weight) water to 1 part lye (by weight).

I edited my post above to explain more!

Paul...

[Tara]

I was told that a 33% discount is 2x's your lye amount. So in your recipe that calls for 7.6 Lye you would use 15.2 water. I also forgot to say that I also add just a little salt to my water before adding my lye. It helps the soap hardened faster. You can add 1/2 tsp/# of oils. Just dissolve it in your water before adding your lye. Now, I don't know if this will help you with the problem you are having but it's worth a try. I made a Castille batch yesterday with this method and was able to cut it this afternoon with no problem.

[AkainePSP]

I just ran this through MMS LYE Calc and I'm thinking my problem could be that I should have added 7.87 for my LYE amount (thats superfatted @ 5) Instead of the 7.6 which is superfatted @ 8. I must have written this recipe down wrong. Would this affect the softness of the soap wjen trying to unmold?

[AkainePSP]

Thanks everyone for your help. I appreciate your help. I am going to attempt the water discount and salt, but with the proper LYE amount. What the heck was I thinking?

Kelly

[CareBear]

I was told that a 33% discount

don't confuse "% discount" with "% lye solution" or "concentration". The word discount is not particularly helpful because we don't necessarily know what concentration you are starting at and then discounting water off of. Yes that is what soapmaker uses as a term, but you will also find the lye solution concentration listed which is much more telling.

A 33% lye solution (concentration) is 1 part lye to 2 parts water. I.e., the lye makes up 1/3 of the total weight of the solution, or 33% of the total weight.

Your lye does look a little short (for a 5% superfat you would want 7.9 oz for 6% you want 7.83 oz), and IMO the castor looks a little high - castor can contribute to a sticky soap. I use a max of 10% and only go that high in my "castile" type soap where the OO gives such a smooth hardness.

And one last thing - if your soap doesn't gel then it can take a lot longer to be ready to unmold, even with a 33% lye solution. Did yours gel?

[Tara]

don't confuse "% discount" with "% lye solution" or "concentration". The word discount is not particularly helpful because we don't necessarily know what concentration you are starting at and then discounting water off of. Yes that is what soapmaker uses as a term, but you will also find the lye solution concentration listed which is much more telling.

A 33% lye solution (concentration) is 1 part lye to 2 parts water. I.e., the lye makes up 1/3 of the total weight of the solution, or 33% of the total weight.

Your lye does look a little short (for a 5% superfat you would want 7.9 oz for 6% you want 7.83 oz), and IMO the castor looks a little high - castor can contribute to a sticky soap. I use a max of 10% and only go that high in my "castile" type soap where the OO gives such a smooth hardness.

And one last thing - if your soap doesn't gel then it can take a lot longer to be ready to unmold, even with a 33% lye solution. Did yours gel?

Oops wrong choice of words. Thanks. I meant concentration. But I think she got what I meant.