What's causing this?

[UrbanFool]

I'm at my wit's end! This is my first time trying to attach a file, so I hope it works. Basically, the corners are crunchy but the rest of the candle is smooth and perfect. It's only on the top. I might attribute this to a dirty mold, but my molds are clean and this happened on two different molds.

I've gone through my "problem/solution" files, and can't figure this one out.

The color change is MY doing... it's not part of the problem. I'm not trying to get a solid color.

There is no fragrance in the candle (something I very often forget and it ticks me off!)

[Donita]

The graduated colors are beautiful.....I have no idea about the rough edge. The only time I have experienced that is if there is dirt in the mold....is the mold made correctly? Is it smooth where it is soldered? Puzzled...... Donita

[topofmurrayhill]

Are you starting with a shallow layer of wax to get the color gradation near the top? If so, maybe it's not fully liquifying around the edge before it starts to set up. In that case you'd need to pour it hotter, or if it's an exceptionally shallow layer you could warm the mold a little before pouring.

[UrbanFool]

It's a Cierra Candles mold, but yesterday I bought 2 more from Yaley's, and if I'm not incorrect, there is a master moldmaker (www.moldman.com) and those are made here too, and I'd bet my next paycheck that all of these molds are made by moldman.com

Also, I've haven't had this problem with this mold before. It's a 2x6.5. I finally decide to make a farking normal candle and end up with all these problems.

Kelly

[UrbanFool]

The first pour (white) is about 3 inches. Then I add the dyes to the remains of the 1 1/2 pound of wax to pour. I'm currently noting my times to get exactly what I want. This was 5 minutes and not enough, and 10 minutes is too many, so today's pours are going to be 7 minutes and I'll go from there.

On these blue candles, the first pour was 190 (which is my norm) and after 5 minutes, the wax had cooled to 175 and I poured over the 3 inches of wax in the mold.

[UrbanFool]

It's frustrating because I'm dealing with the crunchiness on one hand, but then am dealing with the color graduation on the other. Hopefully they're mutually exclusive.

[topofmurrayhill]

I think 3 inches deep @ 190 should do it if the mold diameter is 3 inches. You could try 5 degrees higher or slightly warming the mold just to confirm it's not a pour temp thing.

I seem to recall having a similar problem pouring an unscented candle with clear crystals or translucent crystals. I've never gotten along well with the fischer-tropsch additives. Are you using those by any chance?

[UrbanFool]

The mold is 2" across. My additives are from Cierra Candles and carry their label, so I'm not sure of their origin. The molds carry either the Yaley's label or the Cierra label, but I'm fairly certain that they're all moldman.com molds (although I can't swear to that.)

[topofmurrayhill]

A 2 inch mold would require higher pouring temps for layers than a 3 inch. I'd change my previous suggestion and say try it at 200.

[UrbanFool]

Well, the 200* isn't doing it. I've made several solid candles today, all with the same problem. I'm beginning to wonder how in the world I got such clean candles earlier. Is it possible the 200* is too high?

I think I was pouring at 175* before.

Kelly

[UrbanFool]

It is infinitely worse I think to get a perfect candle, and not really be sure what you did to it because you remelted and added to it so many times.

I used the CandleChem black TOMurray suggested in my other black complaint thread (took 20 drops), but then after the 3rd remelt ended up adding a black diamond chip (I have no idea if that makes any difference) and it really may have enough Vybar 103 to sink a ship. I'm pouring at 200* with warmed molds.

[Ilona]

I've had the same problem.

Here is what I think:

#1 The silicon spray (mold release) is seeping and gathering in the corners. The bubbles come from too much silicon spray in that tiny crevice. It is almost impossible to get the mold clean right there on the seam. I had to use a bamboo skewer topped with some cotton and gently scrape it right along the seam while using a heat gun. It's hard with those molds, the mold release gets in there and wont come out.

or #2

Not enough mold release making the wax get stuck in the seam.

I think it is more likely to be #1.

What helped me is using some mold release additive into the wax.

Also what kind of wax are you using? Maybe adding some Microwax would help as well.

Good luck

ilona

[UrbanFool]

Well, I use no mold release at all, but the molds are clean. The first thing I checked was to make sure there were no crusties left over in the corners of the mould after dumping the candle out.

I've heard it's a poor choice, but I use Yaley's premium (I live across town from Yaley'), and add Stearix, Vybar, and UV.

One of these days I'll get brave enough to add some soy, but not until I've mastered this corner thing and can make perfect black candles.

Thanks!

Kelly

[topofmurrayhill]

Yaley's Premium has an exceptionally high melt point, so you generally have to keep the pouring temp up there.

It doesn't sound like that's necessarily the whole problem though. I've had difficulties similar to what Ilona describes with the mold release, but also without it. I only use the tin plated molds occasionally so I'm no expert with them, but they seem temperamental as far as keeping them conditioned to get a perfect surface finish.

Maybe you can try a light coating of PAM and see if that helps.

Do you get a good burn with an unscented candle at that high a melt point? I generally find you have to go low.

[UrbanFool]

Well, this one's been burning for a few days with a medium flat braid cotton wick. It's not a test, it's just cuz I keep a candle lit when I make jewelry for lighting the torch. If I don't move it around, it doesn't drip but burns itself off cleanly.

(This wick needs to be trimmed, but I'm lazy. It's been going about 3 hours so far this morning. It spilled when I carried it over to the photo table.)

[Jodi]

Honestly .. what i would do .. is after its cooled on top when your done with the last pour .. use a hair dryer on high an warm the edge of the mold on the outside .. had this problem once an this fixed it for good.