Beeswax Issues

[Country Crafter]

Hi all, I am working with some local beeswax, came partially cleaned and we have done some more straining here prior to using, very dark colour. I am pouring as we did in the past with beeswax purchased from a wax supply company, same molds, (votive and pillar), same temps, no fragrance or colouring but having problems. They are cracking as they cool and we are having extreme problems with release from the molds with this new wax.

Any suggestions or conclusions?

Thanks

Wendy

[candlemandave]

Hi,

I'll be interested in how this works out. I bought some beeswax from a apiary once and the legs and wings were not fun. I put a link to wikipedia encyclopedia article on beeswax that may have some helpful info. It seems from this article that you can boil the wax in water to clean it more????? Good luck with this.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beeswax

Dave

[Country Crafter]

LOL no legs and wings aren't fun! However this was clean as far as that went, still alot of sediment in the pots after pouring though, even though we strained twice.

Got the pillar mold out this morning with a fair amount of ease, last night it wouldn't budge yet was cool, the votive molds took some chilling and alot of tugging and they are cracked on the tops.

I decided to test burn anyway and what a difference from the "old" beeswax. Our wick sizing that worked well with the old product just won't cut it in these. Little flame, struggling like crazy and the votive won't stay lit. I do absolutely love the colour and what little scent I am getting with the poor flame though so I am not giving up.

As for the water trick, I too have read about it, however is that not more for removing the bits and pieces, not for filtering. I am sure it is this sediment that is remaining in the pot that is causing the poor flame etc. (Certainly going to do some more wick testing before admitting defeat,

Another quick question, what about molds, what do you find works best for beeswax. I know beeswax likes silicone.

Thanks

Wendy

[Vicky_CO]

Then you still have to much sediment in your wax and it clogging up your wick. I would remelt and run it through a set of panty hose a few times. That is why I don't mess with local beekeeper wax any more unless they tell me how they clean it. It also has to be totally cleaned by them.

[Country Crafter]

Thanks Vicky, I figured it was still too full of sediment for a cleaner easier burn. Will strain it a few more times and see how things go.

I knew what I was getting into with this, we were told it would need further cleaning up and so far we are just playing to see how the process goes.

Pricewise I feel the extra work is not unreasonable for us to do, to eliminate the cost of shipping as well as the much lower price per lb makes a huge difference.

Although I might feel much different during the busy times,

Thanks for your input, much appreciated.

Wendy

[Henryk]

Couple other things I read that are supposed to work wonders: sweatshirt fabric, restaurant supply house paper filters (kind for filtering vegetable oil), paint filters (used for automobile spray painters, like http://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/astpai09.html ).

Vicky is so right - that stuff is clogging your wick - you should be able to even see in build up on it - that is, if you can actually get it to burn long enough!

HTH

EDIT: About molds - I've never had beeswax stick in rubber or silicone molds. I would not use tin or aluminum molds myself - though I know others have used them with success. For the cracking, I would pour COOLER - what temp are you pouring at? Then cool slower. That is a good benefit from rubber/silicone molds - they will hold onto the heat longer.

[Country Crafter]

Hi Henry, thanks so much for the info. LOL no they certainly won't stay lit long enough to see,

I am going to restrain with the auto paint strainers, don't know why I didn't think of those, hubby owns a body shop! (The beekeeper also suggested cotton batting, like what you put in quilts although did say alot of wax was lost using it.

As for pouring, I poured at 155, I think cooling too fast was the issue. I had a really strong frag on the go for some paraffin and even with my respirator it was getting to me and I opened up the door to increase the air flow.

I used standard votive molds and these really were a pain to get out, I incorrectly I guess assumed as the molds were well seasoned I wouldn't have a problem. How about release, I have powdered mold release and silicone spray, any suggestions. I would really like to do some votives and don't want to have to make up some silicone molds for them if at all possible. I did pour up a little beehive in one of our silicone molds and your right, I guess it cooled slower and no cracking!

Kind of enjoying the frustrations of playing with a new product, LOL, we work with gel, soy, paraffin and a bit of palm, what's one more eh!

Thanks again for your help.

Wendy

Edited to ask one more quick question, (then I will quit buggin everyone, lol.)

The tall pillar, ( done in tin mold, taller than I have poured in beeswax before pulled in somewhat on two sides, it was a 3" square.) I am assuming because I did not poke relief holes, correct? Got busy doing other things and forgot but you should poke in beeswax too I would think?)

[ChrisR]

I make a lot of beeswax votives in the aluminum molds and use both release powder in the wax and spray the molds with silicone release spray and have no problem getting them out.

[Country Crafter]

Thanks Chris, that is great to know!

Wendy

[tamsoycandles]

I've had no problems with votives. I was able to remove them once I saw the wax shrinking away from the sides of the votive molds. The wick pin came right out as well.

I did have problems with a 2" pillar mold. I need to try those again.

Regarding weak flames, I have two waxes that are hard to wick. The wax appears very clean, but this is my first experience at wicking beeswax. They are buckwheat and acacia.

Tony