JMCintosh Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 First I want to say hello, this is my first post. I am working with C3 soy wax and keep having the same problem. I have been making candles for about 6 months now votive, container, and tarts. I have tried different temps for pouring and have also tryed to keep the room at a decent temp, around 72 degrees. I have poured at 160, 150, 130, 120, and 90. I have also tried additives like, vybar 260, vybar 103, universal additive, and translusent (i think is what it is called). I still end up with big holes in center of tarts and candles, or pulling away from glass. I have also noticed frosting when I dont use additive. Some have told me it is a one pour wax and other people have told me it needs a second pour. my containers are baby food jars and jelly jars. I have also poked holes and done the second pour. does anyone have any advice. to help get rid of sink holes (that look more like crates) and frosting. Why does the wax pull away from the glass? I redid one candle 6 times last night and after 4 hours of fighting with the wax,(the wax won)! i gave up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logcabinmomma Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 When I used C-3 I poured HOT... like over 160- I usually poured that one at 175. No cooling off after adding FO.-Kristi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gdawg Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 When I was using C-3 I had to do a top off pour and also when the 1st pour was almost set poke sink holes. I also heated the jars to help the wax stick to the jars. I can't remember my pour temp since I havn't used it in awhile but do remember that even though it says one pour it wasn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logcabinmomma Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 I just always had ugly tops lol... I have since learned that if you want to do a second pour but need to use your pour pot while the candle sets up, you can pour your extra wax into a silicone mold (like the ice cube trays from Target). Then you pop a couple in the pot when you're ready for them and melt them back down to repour... I could NOT heat gun C-3 without bad frosting for whatever reason... I ended up switching to GB 464 and haven't looked back... well, except for when I think of the cold throw of C-3....-Kristi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MissyK Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 I use C-3 and do get occasional sink holes around wick. I just use my heat gun and it works perfectly. I do not pour hot. I always got sink holes when I poured hot. I pour at about 140 degrees or when it starts to look a little cloudy and comes out perfectly. Just remember to pour slowly. When I pour fast I also notice sink holes. I love C-3 and get great results with it.Missy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 Missy, I can only echo your comments. The tops we get on C-3 are usually as satiny smooth as a baby's fanny! We also get the occasional dip by the wick, but seldomly enough to require a second pour... We pour at about the same temps as you do - 140°-150°. We generally use Universal Soy additive to help with the fragrance load (1-1½ oz. per pound) and to resist frosting (some colors and scents frost anyway to some degree sooner or later - the ones that frost badly within the first month after pouring, we do a batch with the same FO in a different color to determine which seems to be causing the frosting). We use UV protectant (my partner calls it Sunscreen ) at the recommended dose of 1/8 tsp. per pound. We wash the jars in Parson's sudsy ammonia and set them upside down in the empty dishwasher to air dry, or on wire cookie cooling racks. We heat the jars until they are almost too warm to touch (no idea what temp... whenever human skin begins to get uncomfortable ). We add the FO just before pouring, but we take the time to stir it in well before pouring slowly into the container. During the winter, we had great results putting a cardboard box over the cooling candles so they would not cool TOO quickly in our drafty ol' house. We never put the lid on the container until the candle has totally cooled - about 24 hours. When removing the jars from the scale after each is poured, we usually set them down kinda hard (without slopping the wax!) to dislodge any air bubbles and again if we see any forming around the wick area. The heat gun sometimes does accelerate frosting, so we try not to have to do that or to do a second pour. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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