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1343 with stearic VS. vybar


Pam W

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I've poured several pillars recently using 1343. Some I used stearic for rustic/mottles and some I used vybar where I didn't want any mottling.

I've noticed that the ones with vybar DO NOT weep where the ones w/stearic do even tho I used the same amt of FO in both recipes.

Anyone else experienced this?

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I've been using Yaley's vybar & the directions say to use only 1 tablespoon per 2lbs but the vybar I recently got from Peak indicates usage at 1/2-1 tablespoon pp. I am heavy handed with the FO but don't want to bind it w/too much vybar.

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Yes, same thing in my tests, stearic will be nowhere as effective as vybar 103 or 343 for the bleeding (the former will kill the mottling while the latter will not). I tested this in both 1343 and in 1274 and the results were the same. In addition the 1274 carried on with its usual more consistent mottling that the 1343 if one uses stearic. (I like the patchy mottling of 1343 though!)

Does anyone know what the largest % of stearic that you can use without destroying the mottling in either of these waxes? I'm wondering if its possible to get away with using a high amount of stearic instead of a low amount of vybar. In my notes I have up to 10% before opacity really sets in but I have not actually tried that much.

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Henry, I made some Sweet Pea votives recently 1343 w/3tbs stearic & 1 oz FO - while cooling in the molds the mottling was actually rising up on the tops and the color was ozzing up along the insides of the mold. They came out really pretty but it was weird watching it. Even after being wrapped in papertowels overnight, they'd still slide out of my hand.

The lady that I made 'em for was extremely pleased cause that's the way she likes 'em. All the people that I make candles for are requesting lots of oil so I'm trying to get as much FO into the wax as I can and keep it there. I'm getting a lot of feedback about how long they burn...since I've taught them all the science of hugging. You'd think that they wouldn't order so often if their candles last so long but it's turning out to be just the opposite. :)

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OK, I have my chicken-scratch notes in front of me and it looks like I did 5% in my last set of pillars - one was with 1343 and one 1274. I used 4% FO in both (I know the 1343 says 3% max but I was testing and the 1274 states 4 to 5% max so I wanted to use the same amount --- IMO they both were bleeding the same anyway). I had the SAME experience as you basically - there was a lot of color and FO left on the sides of the mold and the sides of the candles themselves. I swear the insides of my pillar molds have a light staining of red now and I've even tried cleaning them with a heat gun. I don't have anything else so I'm going to just wash them in dish detergent (which I'm just assuming is bad?).

So, its beginning to look more and more like I won't be able to replace vybar 343 with stearic.

This is a really bad pic - but its the best I can do with my camera. Its of the uneven mottle I get with the 1343 - I like it but I want the mottle to look more like "oil in water" instead of snowflakes.

post-98-139458380449_thumb.jpg

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Oh - ok, thanks for the tip. I did a transparency test with paraflint and micro wax with 1218 tonight and I had a bit of red on the sides of the pot - so my candles will be light carnation pink today! Hopefully that will pull out whatever is left in those two pillar molds.

Thanks again.

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Henry,

Here's a pic of a test candle I made today to see how far I could go w/stearic w/o losing the mottle - I used 6 tbs stearic pp & 2 oz FO. The pic isn't real good but the best my el-cheapo camera will do. The mottle is lighter than I usually get and more of the mottling floated to the top of the mold which is now the bottom. The candle is slippery but no sweating. The cold throw is sooooo strong that I'm going to wait a couple days till my nostrils clear before I light it.

post-450-139458380741_thumb.jpg

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