Jump to content

Anyone using Accu-Soy


Recommended Posts

Looks like I am the only one using this wax but for those of you who are interested here is what I found out about the cracking issue. The factory suggests heating the wax to 180 degrees, adding fo and color, then pouring at 170 degrees. I had posted the cracking problem on Swans forum and they suggested that I not move the containers after pouring them. When I was using cba I would normally move them from the counter to the oven to cool. The folks at Swans thinks it is disturbing the cooling process and since the candles cool off quicker on the tops and bottoms it could be causing the cracking in those areas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
I am wondering if anyone using Accu-Soy container wax has experienced cracking in the wax after it has set up and what they may have done to "fix it"?

tlc, I've been using Accu-soy 10 for just over a year now and haven't had any issues with cracking other than once in a while a slight crack right up next to the side of the jar, barely noticeable in my square masons. At first I used a heat gun but don't bother anymore since they weren't big enough for customers to care.

I heat to 185, add FO at 175, pour at 155. That was the info I got when I first started.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, somebody has been digging up bones to find this old thread :)

I quit using the Accu-Soy. (I no longer make candles to sell, I had to quit for health reasons) I just couldn't get past all the little problems. Some of the problems I/you wouldn't notice it in tins. I was told (by someone from Swans) that the cracking was b/c I was moving the containers after pouring. I found that to be BS. The wax would crack if I just left them where they were poured. I tried different containers, different heating and pouring temps, w/fo, w/o fo, w/color, w/o color, dye chips, liquid dye, heated containers and un-heated containers. I just couldn't get all the little "bugs" worked out. I did sell quite a few of the containers to see what others thought and no one complained.

I found with the Accu-Soy (10) all of the fo's that I tried threw well and no curing time. It does have lots of positives.

I did go back to CBA mainly b/c I was most familar with it and already knew what would throw and what wouldn't and I was getting to the point of not having any hair left :) lol

To sum the story up I would say give the wax a try. Take the basic pouring instructions and tweek as needed. . You may have better luck with the enviorment that you will be pouring in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how was wicking accu-soy 10? I've been using ecosoya 135 for years. Did you ever use cd wicks or cdn wicks with it or rrd's? Also did you find you had to wick up or down in comparision to cba? PEte from the company said he uses zinc with it which is unusual to work in soy??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used htp's and found that I needed to wick up compared to what I was using with the CBA.

The Accu-Soy 10 seemed to be a little harder wax than the CBA I thought. I found that centering the wick (htp) in the container made for an uneven burn b/c of the curl (there may be an old thread about that too) requiring wicking up and a reason that I tried the LX's. I did try to offset the wicks (htp) to try to compensate but that was required more battle gear. :rolleyes2 Seemed like I would offset one way and the darn thing would curl the other. It was a royal PITA for me. I used htp 105's in the 8 oz square mason's and never really liked to burn. I thought they were (made the container) too hot but the 104's were too cool (made for an uneven burn).

I did try LX's but by the time I got around to using them I was exhausted from all the testing and had decided to give up on the wax at that point.

I've never used the zinc, cd, cdn or the rrd wicks so I have no input on that. Sorry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am now testing this wax as well. I use HTPs but what I do is twist the wick all the way up, fasten it to the bottom of the container then place a clip on top to hold and prevent from unwinding, then pour. When you burn it, the wick will slowley unwind and create a centered burn pool.

I have been heating to 175 and pouring at 125. I notice a slight dip near the wick after it sets up but not sure if that is what you are reffering to as cracking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found this old thread that I had posted. It shows some testing that I did and a letter from the mfg for anyone that is interested. I don't think the pics will be on the server much longer though.

http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43406&highlight=accu-soy

Carrie, I did try the wick twist. Someone (maybe you) told me about it when I was testing. I would search it out to find out who but the pages load to slow. I kept pulling the wick out from the wick tab. I'm too strong I guess but it sounds like it would work from what you say. How did you clip them so they didn't un-wind? No the dip at the wick is not the cracking that I am referring to anyway. The pics in the link shows some of the cracking, if you can see them...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...