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melt pool question


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I am a newbie here - just making candles for personal use/gifts - so, have been reading all the advice. I have been testing, in my small batch way.

I am using C-3 wax, FO from Just by Nature at 1oz per 1lb, and HTP wicks.

I am looking for some advice in what is considered an ideal meltpool. Initially I was using HTP83's in a 2" in jar, and when it burnt, i was still getting 1/2 rim of wax left all round (sorry for not knowing the "right" terms). So, I tried using a HTP92, and the onlt difference was it burnt down more quickly.

Am I mistaken in thinking I want the meltpool to be all the way across the top of the candle?

I'm happy to test & test, but, it would really help if I knew what I was aiming for LOL

The other problem I am experiencing with all my wick sizes, is that the tip of the wax curves as it burns (but, no mushrooming), which pushes the meltpool off centre - I was wondering if switching to CDN wick's may help.

I am using C-3 wax, heating to 175, adding Fo & dye chip (1 per pound), pouring slowly into slightly heated jars at 165. I don't seem to be experiencing wets spots or much frosting, the candles do end up a little 'dipped" on the top, but, trying to do a littel second pour just makes them messier, so, I leave them as a single pour.

I'd appreciate any tips, I'm not trying to avoid testing, but, I amade the mistake of buying a big variety of styles/sizes of jars, so, being steered in the right direction would help.

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You want the melt pool all the way across the top. You should be able to achieve a 1/4" to 1/2" in 3 hrs burn time. The deeper the melt pool, the faster your candle is burning so you may want to wick down if it is 1/2" or more.

CD wicks do curl, you may want to try a cotton or HTP if you dont want that. HTH.

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OK first of all, never judge a burn until you've burned the candle all the way the down. Now keep in mind there are times when you can tell sooner that a wick is just not going to cut it and don't need to wait to burn it all the way.

HTPs and CDs are what are called self trimming wicks meaning they will curl to one side as they burn and won't mushroom as much as other wicks. This curling or bending to one side can cause some hang-up on the side the wick bends away from. However, if properly wicked, that hang-up will and should catch up. Another thing that is important to remember with soy is that soy tends to burn down, then out so the self trimming wicks will really add that initial hang up - this is why you normally want to burn a soy candle all the way before determining if your wick is correct or not. Getting a full mp in the first burn or so with soy isn't that big of a deal and usually won't happen but will eventually in subsequent burns if you have the correct wick. The typical rule of thumb for a mp is 1 inch for every diameter of your jar - i.e. a 3 in diameter jar should take 3 hours to get a full mp, but this rule isn't carved in stone either but can used as a general guideline. You also want to make sure that your mp depth is about 1/4 to no more than 1/2 inch deep.

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