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Avoiding Jump Lines in Repour -- timeconsuming


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I was wondering what those who do high volumes do to avoid jump lines with their repour. I use a soy that I have to do a repour. I find that if I do not zap each container individually on top before I repour I will get jump lines and then I have to fix those. It is not a real quick zap either to warm them up -- have to do it gradually so I do not aggravate the soy too much. This is REALLY timecomsuming with just the amount of candles I make. I especially have this problem in the winter because my candles get real cold during the night in the shop -- can't leave heat on all night -- would cost a fortune. Is there a special less timeconsuming trick I do not know about? :confused: If I ever do get real busy, I can't imagine having to do this with A LOT of candles at one time. Thanks for any advise. :)

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I was wondering what those who do high volumes do to avoid jump lines with their repour. I use a soy that I have to do a repour. I find that if I do not zap each container individually on top before I repour I will get jump lines and then I have to fix those. It is not a real quick zap either to warm them up -- have to do it gradually so I do not aggravate the soy too much. This is REALLY timecomsuming with just the amount of candles I make. I especially have this problem in the winter because my candles get real cold during the night in the shop -- can't leave heat on all night -- would cost a fortune. Is there a special less timeconsuming trick I do not know about? :confused: If I ever do get real busy, I can't imagine having to do this with A LOT of candles at one time. Thanks for any advise. :)

Get a one-pour wax?

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Get a one-pour wax?

Thanks, but that is not going to work. :P I like too many things about the soy I use, and I can get it in my state. I already get jars out of my state which ups the shipping. I have tested several soys, and I like the one I use the best. They claim that it is a one pour but that is not always the case. There could be hidden air pockets. It has happened a few times while I tested this soy before I did repours. They are hidden air pockets so you do not know when they are there. So, I do not want to take a chance. This is why I think it is best to do repours with any soy actually.

I know there are some on here that do repours with their soy (even the soys that claim to be a one pour soy), and I was wondering if they have an easier method than I know about to avoid the jump lines during the repour. I tried pouring hotter, but it did not seem to help much, and I cannot pour too hot since this soy does best at being poured at around 130. I have tried up to about 145.

I will figure it out somehow. :wink2:

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:shocked2: Whatever you do......do NOT suggest to Holly that she change waxes!!! (:laugh2:)

:P Actually, I have not changed my main wax line in close to two years! I have not changed my wax since I started my business. I changed waxes during my testing to find the right one.....and decided to make the switch to soy. I test different ones now and then out of curiosity just like a lot of candlemakers do. I am pretty loyal to the soy I use. :)

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:P Actually, I have not changed my main wax line in close to two years! I have not changed my wax since I started my business. I changed waxes during my testing to find the right one.....and decided to make the switch to soy. I test different ones now and then out of curiosity just like a lot of candlemakers do. I am pretty loyal to the soy I use. :)

that being said.... are you not going to test the ACCU-soy??? I really wanted to know how it tested. :(

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that being said.... are you not going to test the ACCU-soy??? I really wanted to know how it tested. :(

Hi Carrie,

Sorry Carrie. I have not received a sample yet. I was also suppose to receive a sample of the Palm wax that Pete may decide to carry. This would be a prospect for an upscale status jar line down the road and was really curious to see how it looks and behaves. I told Pete that I would not be able to get around to testing it this week because I have a show on Saturday. Not sure if that is why it was not in the box or not. I need to email him. I am not in any big hurry for myself to test them.

TLC just posted a thread regarding the Accu soy and is testing it. It would be great to know if it requires a two pour or not. If it does not require a two pour (consistently) that would save a lot of time. I would have to test it to know how it compares to CB-3's scent throw and the burning qualities. When I get around to it I will post how I think it compares. :)

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I was wondering what those who do high volumes do to avoid jump lines with their repour. I use a soy that I have to do a repour. I find that if I do not zap each container individually on top before I repour I will get jump lines and then I have to fix those. It is not a real quick zap either to warm them up -- have to do it gradually so I do not aggravate the soy too much. This is REALLY timecomsuming with just the amount of candles I make. I especially have this problem in the winter because my candles get real cold during the night in the shop -- can't leave heat on all night -- would cost a fortune. Is there a special less timeconsuming trick I do not know about? :confused: If I ever do get real busy, I can't imagine having to do this with A LOT of candles at one time. Thanks for any advise. :)

Hi Holly :smiley2: I don't know a thing about 2 pour wax but have you thought about using a heating pad from a waterbed to keep your candles warm at night? Not sure if that would work. Might be more hassle than it's worth but thought I would ask.

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Hi Holly :smiley2: I don't know a thing about 2 pour wax but have you thought about using a heating pad from a waterbed to keep your candles warm at night? Not sure if that would work. Might be more hassle than it's worth but thought I would ask.

Hi TLC,

I have read about some doing that on the board. Good thought, but it definitely would not be an easy setup and would just get in the way. Even in the summer you can get jump lines but it does not take as long to warm them up. I am just curious as to what others do, because I know there are many who prefer to do repours with soy just to be on the safe side. It may be less noticeable if I pour to a different place, but I prefer to pour right to where it begins to curve at the top.

Thanks thought for your input on this. :)

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My first reaction was the same as previously mentioned - use a one-pour wax. We have had very little trouble with hidden pockets with our soy candles. When we have had problems, it was because of something that we did wrong during the pour and not a characteristic of the wax itself. When one is making a lot of candles, it's way too labor-intensive to have to heat gun the tops, repour, etc. We'd go broke on that quickly!

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My first reaction was the same as previously mentioned - use a one-pour wax. We have had very little trouble with hidden pockets with our soy candles. When we have had problems, it was because of something that we did wrong during the pour and not a characteristic of the wax itself. When one is making a lot of candles, it's way too labor-intensive to have to heat gun the tops, repour, etc. We'd go broke on that quickly!

Thanks Stella for the advise. I do know that is an option, but so far from the soys I have tested (not a lot, but some) I have not found one I like better and do not want to make a switch at this point if I can help it. I really do like the soy I have and I can get it in my state which saves on shipping. Swans does have another soy now, but I guess I have lost a little faith that something will have the same qualities I like about the soy I use. I am going to test the Accu Soy which he now has anyway....it would not hurt.

My question is if there is anything I am not doing to make the repour a little easier and faster -- to avoid jump lines. I may have to take the repour to the same point on the glass as the 10 oz. jar. I find I do not notice jump lines as much where I fill up to on the 10 oz. jar. This means that my taller jar will bump up to close to 18 oz. instead of 16 which I will then have to increase the cost. This would make the repour a little faster.

I can handle the extra work right now even though I do not like it, but when I think of down the road when things get a lot busier, I know it will become quite tiring and will slow me down. Altough, people who make pillars have to deal with repours.

I called Calwax a long time ago and asked about the issue and even though they claim this soy is a one pour he was not very surprised that I had experienced some hidden air pockets. He did not give me a lot advise except to shake/move the wicks a bit -- which to me would not help since you have to shake them when it is liquid. They form later when they cool way down. I went over my process with him and there was nothing that they thought I was doing wrong. I think the candles are cooling too fast but do not know for sure if this is it. I can't remember when I experienced the hidden air pockets -- if it was warm weather or cold -- but I know it was before I started working in the shop. In the fall or winter even our kitchen can get down to at least 58 to 60 at night.

Since I have had hidden air pockets, I do not trust it and don't know when to feel assured that they are not there. I am going to call Calwax again and see if I can get more input. I will get it figured out. Thanks.

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JMHO but I don't think you will get rid of the separation mark. I pour the first pour up futher on the jar so I can hide under my ribbon or line in jar. Don't know how you finnish yours or the jar but this might. I always pour hot on my second pour so it will melt the layer already cooled.

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JMHO but I don't think you will get rid of the separation mark. I pour the first pour up futher on the jar so I can hide under my ribbon or line in jar. Don't know how you finnish yours or the jar but this might. I always pour hot on my second pour so it will melt the layer already cooled.

Hi Sharon,

That is exactly what I do with the 10 oz. jars. I have an elastic band that I tie the tag with, so if there is slight jump lines you really can tell that much, because I fill it up to where the band is. Now with the 16 oz. I prefer to pour the wax right before it starts to curve for two reasons....keeps the jar price down (only 16 oz. to there) and I prefer there not to be any wax in the curve part since soy tends to leave a little residue anyway. If the repour is not smooth on the top edge you can notice it more with this jar -- poured at this height. I have a really critical eye so it bugs me if I do not fix it. Many customers may not care but there will be those who have a critical eye like myself and I have to have it go out the best it can (for soy that is) for me to feel good about my product. I have had to learn to live with some imperfections as it is with soy. :rolleyes2 I do pour a little hotter on my second pour, but I may even try it little hotter than I do. I will also consider to pour higher up now on the taller jar.

Thanks Sharon for your response. :)

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Holly:

Just a (possibly silly) thought, don't know if this would be practical or not, but what if you put your jars under an overhead food warmer like they use in restaurants? (Such as these: http://www.heatlampworld.com/index-overheadwarmer.html)

Dunno for sure whether those things would be warm enough/not too hot/generally safe for the purpose of melting the top of candles before a repour, but maybe worth looking into if it will save you time in the long run???

Well, I told you, it's just a thought. :)

Andre

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