Malystxy Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Several of my candles appear as the below pics show, what woudl cause that mottled, spooted look? how can I avoind it to get solid color molded candles? IT did the same in a tin mold and a polycarbonate mold. Pics:http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h169/daxteruto/100_0681.jpghttp://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h169/daxteruto/100_0680.jpghttp://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h169/daxteruto/100_0679.jpghttp://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h169/daxteruto/100_0678.jpgEdit: I am pouring them at 160-170 degrees F. The wax is straight parrifin. The coloring is dye blocks, added after the wax melts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elapid Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 It looks like fingernailing, I think that is what it's called. I'm no expert, they will follow I'm sure, but I believe I have seen that VIBAR will help with this. But I bet they will want to know what wax you are using and what temp you are pouring them. I hope nobody jumps on me for posting here, I don't have enough experience to suggest anything other what I think it's called. JMHO, Elapid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janette Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 That is the nicest fingernailing I've ever seen. This is likely caused by tiny air pockets trapped in the wax. The air causes cracks that most candlemakers call fingernails. Vybar may help with this. Try pouring a little hotter, 180. And make sure your relief holes are kept open during cooling. Your repour temp should be the same as your pour temp. also. Keep trying. Fingernailing happens to everyone now and then.Janette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scntdwik Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Try pouring between 180-185.I would think 160 would be too cool... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malystxy Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 What are cool holes?Also, would it also be caused by pouring the wax to hot, like over 200F? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janette Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Relief holes help ensure the candle cools evenly and doesn't pull away from the sides of the mould. They also let trapped air out of the wax. I poke relief holes about 15 minutes after the skin forms on the bottom of the candle, and keep reopening them every 1/2 hour or so. I use a metal rod, just poke it into the bottom of the candle and move around to expose the molten wax inside the cooling candle. I make my relief holes about the size of a pencil or a little larger.I have never poured at 200 or above so have no advice for you there. I think the fingernailing is more a result of pouring low rather than too hot. Relief holes may solve your problem, allowing air to get out.Janette Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malystxy Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 Ah, so relief holes are poked in during the cooling process to get out the air, I have not been doing that. I will try it on my next candles and then posts pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ladysj Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 I have had my straight paraffin do that also. After I pour the wax into the molds I tap it all the way around real good and I've also found that adding stearic at 4 tbsps. per pound and a 1/2 tsp vybar helps also. I love the look though it's very unique and different. Also, on the relief holes after I poke them I found that I usually only have to do one repour if I let it cool completely to where the wax is shrunk all it can shrink. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Ah, so relief holes are poked in during the cooling process to get out the air, I have not been doing that. I will try it on my next candles and then posts pics.Actually the poking is done to allow air in as the wax shrinks. Later you fill the holes with wax. Otherwise air can get sucked in and create voids where you can't see them, or the candle can pull away from the mold in places.As far as I know that doesn't have anything to do with fingernailing though. We've had some speculation but no definitive info on what causes it and how to get rid of it. Seems to be associated with particular batches of wax. It's been suggested that dissolved gases cause that shearing in the wax. Maybe an additive like Vybar would get rid of it.BTW that wick looks like it might be a little big. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashncandles Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 One of my pillars did that. I poked relief holes in the one after it and I didn't have that issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 I'm just gonna say that a pinch or three of vybar 103 has helped me ditch those things. Tiny pinches. Lots of remelting, but eventually ... GONE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malystxy Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 Where can I get this vybar?What is it really? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henryk Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Here's some good reading for you. The additive you choose to get rid of it will cause different appearances in your wax. For instance, vybar will most definately make your wax much more opaque. There are three types, the one you want, if you choose to use it, is Vybar 103. You can get it any many suppliers - for instance, candlechem.com, candlewic.com, bittercreek.nethttp://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4295&highlight=4045EP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malystxy Posted October 29, 2006 Author Share Posted October 29, 2006 Here's some good reading for you. The additive you choose to get rid of it will cause different appearances in your wax. For instance, vybar will most definately make your wax much more opaque. There are three types, the one you want, if you choose to use it, is Vybar 103. You can get it any many suppliers - for instance, candlechem.com, candlewic.com, bittercreek.nethttp://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4295&highlight=4045EPVery informative, thank you. I may try what they suggest to heat the wax up to 200 for 20 to 45 minutes. I use a double boiler, so it won;t get much hotter than that. Alsi, I will not pu the wax on direct heat. Two more questions. WHat is this presto pot i Hear about?And that is this FO I hear about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aspencreek Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Welcome, and good luck. Making candles is not easy by any means. You will mess up and start over all of the time all in taking notes. You will learn the in and outs of it. I will suggest using the search part of this forum and you will learn a lot. It is great and I have used it many times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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