Thinking of switching from PQ to 1343

[sueb50]

I have a small supply left but it is imposible to get now at least for awhile. I am thinking of using the IGI 1343 but use all soy in my containers. Is is wrong to use both? I love the look of the rustic pillars and make some good looking ones now with the PQ. Anyone got any opinions?

[kitkat]

If that is what you want to use you go... there is nothing wrong with doing business with different waxes .. many of us here do.. and then there are many more who have more then 3 kinds working for them..

you be surprised when one customer prefers the one kind of wax to another..

and vice versa...everyone enjoys a variety of different types of candles from tarts to votives to containers and pillers..

wishing you great success in whatever you choose..

Cathy

[MichelleOH]

There is nothing wrong with using both, I use 1343 and soy for containers.

[Henryk]

Why is it wrong? IMO I don't like the way palm wax burns though it looks great. Soy pillar wax is too fussy also. I use 1218, 1274, 1343, and 6028 (I will probably stop using the 1343 and go with the 1218 instead if I can get it to go rustic like the 1343 - haven't tested though.) I just started using the 6028 - its paraffin/natural pillar blend - here's what it looks like (pic may not be the greatest). You won't be able to get rustic/mottle/etc. out of it, but it is partly soy-based.

[kitkat]

And here you go..

another Great pic from HenryK..

Love that color Henry.....

You always do great work..and I always enjoy your pic's:wink2:

Cathy

[Henryk]

Ha - thanks. It looks like there is a color cast to them, but there isn't The dye is "rust". In paraffin it looks like a burnt orange - in any soy or soy blend in the same amount - its cantaloupe/peach, so I got my perfect peach color down - just use rust dye chips

[workingwithsoy]

I think they look nice and creamy! Perfect color for a peach or cantalope! How do they burn? Can you hug them?

[sueb50]

HenryK, why do you think you will stop using the 1343 and go with the 1218? Also when you get the rustic look out of 1343 do you add anything else to the wax? I used the 1343 before I switched to all soy and natural. I also didn't make pillars then, just votives out of it. Does it require a second pour ?

[Henryk]

While both are translucent straight paraffins, the 1218 has a slightly higher meltpoint and has 2x the FO load of the 1343.

I just use the standard 3TBLs PP of stearic with the 1343 - I wieghed it out once, I think it was 3% and yes, it does require a repour. Pour around 150. I don't chill the molds, but sloshing the wax a bit adds a lot to the look. Go to the gallery section, Eugenia is one of the expert on them. There are a lot of hints there and in the general candlemaking sections.

Regarding the 6028, I'll let you know when I burn them a bit more, but so far so good. To early to tell for sure though.

[Henryk]

workingwithsoy, wanted to get back to you regarding the 6028. Yes, the pillars can be hugged. It is NOT as pliable as far down the sides as straight paraffin, but when it gets warmed up, you can definately hug the top in - I'd say about 1/2" down after the pillar gets going. My usual LXs won't work in this wax. Square braids are working much better. The burn reminds me somewhat of straight beeswax actually. Steady flame, very little "dancing", and the wax seems to burn slow. So much nicer that straight soy pillars in the "looks" of how it burns IMO. I don't think I've gotten the perfect wick for votives yet, but the small LXs are doing ok. Definately a wax I'll keep on hand.