SEP Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 I know, I know, this has been asked many times before, but I can't find it on this board or the old CandleTech board. I decided to play with beeswax/soy blending again, but can't find my notes on pour temps. I know the ratios 3%-4%, but I need help with the temps.The last time I tried this(over a year ago) I was trying to make it work with KySoy 125, but finally figured out that the beeswax didn't like the cottonseed at all. I just bought a case of 415 to mix with the beeswax, but need a little help please.Sandi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henryk Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 I used to use BW @ 3% in KY125 all the time. No problems. Pouring temp if I remember correctly was 116F. If pouring slushy, don't go so much by pour temp as by how it looks - thick cough syrup - maybe a few "floaters" in it and you should be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEP Posted September 23, 2006 Author Share Posted September 23, 2006 Henry, Thank you so much for replying to me. I don't know what could have been the problem with the KySoy 125. I must have been pouring way too hot, and then too cool. I'll try your advice, and again thank you. Sandi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dana Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 Hey, do either of you find that you have to either wick up or cut back on your f/o when you add BW? I can't wick up anymore (using a HTP 1312) unless if you know of one that burns hotter. I am scared to cut back on the f/o for fear it won't throw well. I currently use 1 3/8 oz. Maybe it will throw better because with less oil it will burn hotter, giving a full m/p? I used to add it last year but read that it doesn't help with the scent throw, so I stopped adding it. I want to add it again because I like the look, but now I can't get them to have a full m/p. Thanks!~Dana Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEP Posted September 23, 2006 Author Share Posted September 23, 2006 Dana, Even with the ugly BW/Soy combo I did, I never had a bad wicking problem. The throw on the ones I made with 3% BW was great, and got better the longer they cured. What percentage BW and which soy wax have you tried? Sandi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henryk Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 Actually, in soy, a scented candle gives an easier melt pool than a non-scented one - believe it or not. That has been my experience anyway - somewhere in the archived veg board is a thread about it. I was surprised by it also. Now different FOs of the SAME percentages in the SAME soy can make you wick up sometimes. (Likewise dark colors - esp. adding black, but I'm sure you have come across that).As far as wicking I never had to change mine and I do remember distinctly that I stopped adding BW to the KY125 before I stopped using it (KY125) just to simplify things. (I still think its a great soy - just went to CBA - now I'm just experimenting with gel for something different). For the vast majority of time I've always used LX wicks though in soys, so perhaps it is the HTPs that are giving you the difference you see?If you want to stick with HTPs - have you tried the 126? The 126 is actually a notch UP from the 1312. The ROC is just a tad bit more, but the diameter of the melt pool is larger. The only thing bad about it is the flame height, it may be too large in your application - in other words, too high. If so, then I would look at a different wick type instead of size. Say maybe an eco 8 or above. Naturally, different wicks have different characteristics, so the mushrooming may not be to your task, but many wicks like the ECO and LX, cottons, and others give you a more centered melt-pool - so its just a trade off you may or may not want to make. Also, sometimes you may actually need to wick DOWN instead of up - it may be that your wick is just burning TOO hot and is tunneling downwards instead of staying on the same level allowing it to burn outwards.You should look at that the stats on this site comparing your current wick choice to others: http://www.wicksunlimited.com/atkins_pearce_htp_wicks.php (direct link to your current HTP wicks, see the left side to compare to others). Since different manufacturers will use different testing methods, so you still have to test naturally - but it does give you a pretty good idea - especially within a wick type.HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dana Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 Sandi, I use 1 Tbls. per lb. of ecosoya pure. I am working with different jars now, and I am coloring when before I was not. I just wasn't having the trouble that I am now. I tried going down to 1/2 Tbls pp but then it wasn't enough to change the look of the wax.Henryk, I thank you for all that info! That website was really helpful too. I am going to try the lx's for sure. I just pulled the HTP1312's out and stuck in the HTP 126's. After the wax cools, I'll try them out. I never knew that about the 126's. I was really shocked! All this time I thought the 1312 was going to give me the largest mp diameter! I hope I can figure this out soon- I have an order of 3 cases due by Thursday! Thanks again you guys! ~Dana Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEP Posted September 23, 2006 Author Share Posted September 23, 2006 Dana, I don't know what 1 TBLS computes with in ounces, but I know you will be able to get it to work. Just start with using percentages. Anywhere from 3%-5%. I used 3% in mine and they burned fine in the square Mason with a 60 cotton with in most scents, but some did need a 62 cotton.My main problem was just sheer ugliness, but that was my fault. I wasn't using the right pour temp.Thanks again HenryK and Vicky.Sandi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funnygirl Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 Just an FYI. 3% of 1 pound is 1/2 oz. Likewise, 1 TBS is also 1/2 oz. BUT just like with fragrance oil, your best best is to actually weigh out the beeswax to make sure you are getting 1/2 oz. because Im not sure if 1 TBS of beeswax actually does weigh 1/2 oz. Is that clear as mud? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dana Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 Yep, I was using 3%. I would always scoop it out of the bag with the Tablespoon and put it in the cup to weigh it. It would always weigh 1/2 oz., so I just started getting lazy and put it right in the melt pot. I am starting to think that it's not the BW I am adding but all the extra dye. This guy wanted really really red and really really orange, so while I've been having fun with that, I am creating wicking issues. I am going to ease up on the color and see if that helps too. I have always used the cotton or HTP wicks. The addict in me wants to try the lx's! I can go back and just use my regular formula for this order, but with that awesome color he wanted I just wanted them to be gorgeous and perfect! I still have a few days........ ~Dana Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEP Posted September 24, 2006 Author Share Posted September 24, 2006 I think the red color explains it. I have always had wicking issues with a really deep red color in soy. I got so sick of the wicking issues caused by dye, I just quit using dye altogether. I now use frosted jars and leave the little babies white. Sandi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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