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You need the KyPureSoy if you used to use the BG soy and want to go with Ky. HTH Sandi

Top, Thank you for your post. I tested the CDN and wasn't impressed at all. I will just stick with my plain old CD wicks in my 415. I thought that maybe I was crazy for not seeing what all the hype was about, but you made me feel better. Sandi

Yep, none of the old work can be used on the new version as far as I can tell either. I hate the new version. Sandi

I haven't been around much lately, but I wanted to let those of you that use PrintMaster now to not even consider the "New & Improved" version. I have used PrintMaster for years and have had really good luck with it for my labels, but this new version is the pits. It doesn't have any Avery templates at all like the older version does, and every function is different. Guess you can tell I'm not impressed at all. I emailed them about these issues and got a return canned email response that was of no help at all. They tell me that the new version doesn't have the Avery templates. Well, duh. I think I just told YOU that. Hope this keeps you all from wasting your money like I did. Sandi

BC has these on sale. They are a bit taller than what you wanted, but they are 4" dia. Sandi ETA: scroll down about 1/2 way. http://secure.candlesupply.com/catalog_page.cfm?queries_index=index7&ProductCodeID=77&ProductSubCodeID=308

I found that elevating the clamshells on something makes it much easier to pour. I put the clamshells in rows on a tray and then put the try up on a box (candle jar boxes work great) and then pour. This way the pour pot is much closer to the clamshell and it doesn't splash nearly as much. You can also get really inexpensive plastic turntables to put on top of the boxes and then put the try on there to pour. Put a piece of non-skid on the turntable to keep the tray from sliding. I have about four of these I use all the time. When I've filled one side of the tray, I just gently turn the tray on the turntable to fill the other side. This same method works well for votives too. Sandi

I just drug one of mine out, and flipped it over. There is a metal plate there that states the wattage is 12 watts. HTH Sandi

Candles & Supplies carries semi clear plastic covers. I buy mine from there. Since the cost on the metal ones was so high, I quit using them and went with those. I cut my cost from $1.25 to 5 cents each. I put my round label on the top and they look great. Sandi Edited to ad link http://newcart.candlesandsupplies.com/Store/Products/Candles/Packaging/Plastic+Dust+Covers/Default.aspx

Thanks Caramel. I'll do a search as you suggested about the coconut oil as an additive. I have some in the shop, so if I find any info on it I can jump right on it. Again, thank you for responding. Sandi

I am currently using 464, but still testing since I went with a less expensive tumbler than the ones I was using. I can get the 464 locally, so it keeps my costs down a bit. I need to slow down the burn some, and harden these babies for summer. Does anyone know of a way to harden the 464 a bit? I know the 444 is harder, but I can't get it locally, so I wondered if there is an additive that will work it to get where I want to be. I also remember reading that beeswax and 464 don't "play" well together so I know that isn't an option. Would stearic work, and if yes, what amount do you think I should start with? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sandi

That sure does sound like a lot of stearic, but you've got my curiosity up. Do you have any links the candlemaking with stearic that you could share? Sandi

A little trick I discovered by accident, is to put the lid to the tin on the melter upside down, and then set the tin bottom in the lid. I raises the tin just a tiny bit and actually seems to help some. Sandi

Also, added to what the others have said, I have had trouble in the past with my dyes doing just that same thing. I quit using dye altogether, and it has solved the problem for the most part. The worst was red dye. If you snip off the end of the wick, is it crunchy like it has sand in it? It could be either the dye or the fo, but I vote for the dye. Sandi

It did have a small wet spot on each one, but not enough to bother me. I'm so used to the things I hardly notice them anymore. But there were no wet spots with the 75/25 blend. Sandi

Antonia, They have the 4630 at Aztec here in Knoxville, TN. I bought a slab to play with, and mixed it with the 415. I did 75% 415, 25% 4630. Poured in to 7.5 ounce tumblers (2 3/4" Dia.) with 8% Baby Powder from Southern Scentsation and no dye. One tumbler had CD10 and the other CD12. I lit the CD10 this morning after not even 24 hours cure and the throw is very good. It took 3 hours to get a full MP, and I'm happy with that. I didn't mean to jump on your ideas here, but you all got my curiosity up, and I had to try it. Since I was on a roll trying all the ideas here I also poured two of the same tumblers with a 50/50 blend of 464/4630 like Tootie is doing. I used the same CD10 & CD12, 8% fo load of Nefertiti and no color. Lit the CD10 at the same time as the other blend, but had a full MP in 2 1/2 hours. Also very good throw. I'm pretty sure I can cut back on both the fragrances and have a very good candle if the throw stays good through the whole burn. At this point, if I had to choose, I would go with the 75/25 with 415/4630 since it would be less expensive to buy supplies, and it is more soy. HTH Sandi