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first hpcp soap question


LovelyLathers

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Carol was dead on!:wink2: As you cook the soap, the saponification process is doing its thing and evaporating most of the liquids. You mentioned no toungue zap, so it is skin ready now. But since this is basically a castile soap, it will take a while to firm up and harden, but it will! Soap, like fine wine, only gets better with age!:smiley2:

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Thanks for the replies. I figured it did not need to be insulated but thought I would ask. Now I can't wait to cut it. I did a water discount as there was no fo or colorant. I am hoping that will help harden it up a bit quicker.. I think it was about a 3rd discount. I am still learning the calculator but from what I can see I must of done it right, no zap and it seems to be hardening a bit. No oils floating on top or anything like that. It worked just like the tutorials said would happen. Sue

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You did a water discount on a crock pot recipe? Man you must be good - I tried that once and it was a BOMB.

It's really just got to cool now to solidify. Then you can cut it and let it dry (cure) a bit more. Probably more than a month for high OO I hear (some say 4 months for Castile). You can use it now but it'll get better 'n' better (and harder and harder).

So go drink that wine!

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Carol how did it bomb? It is my first time up until tonight I have only done cp.. I did the discount hoping it would cure faster then a few months. I read somewhere if you discount the water it will help cure faster in 4 to 6 weeks. I will have to wait and see. I was also able to make a few soap balls with the little that would not fit in the mold. It was very soft but they held together and I had to gently put them on the rack. Sue

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HP will just plain ol' be soft for a while. That's what the "cure" period is for on HP -- you aren't waiting for the lye to finish sapping the oils, since that was finished by the end of the cook. You're just waiting for water to LEAVE so the soapies can dry out and get harder. LOL

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