silkysoycreations Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 I've read through old posts on GB's 444 and seeing everyone's FO % which is far less than the 15% FO it's suppose to hold. Can anyone explain to me why you haven't tested this max amount? I see some complaints about throw & wondered if you up'd your FO maybe that would of helped?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangerine Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 I tested the 444 initially with an 8% FO load, since I didn't know it could hold a maximum of 15%. Sure enough, the hot throw was lousy. I retested it using 12% FO and LOVED the throw but IMO, it's too much money to spend on FO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngelaVA Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 If you put that much oil into a candle, you will likely have problems with wicking and soot. Also, you shouldn't need anywhere near that much to get a candle that smells strong. So using more than you need is a waste of FO and thus a waste of money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowded House Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 I get a fine hot throw with 6-9%.What's been driving me nuts with that wax is that I can't seem to predict or prevent a cave happening just below the surface near the wick. It doesn't seem to be related to heat temp, pour temp, FO load, or ambient temperature. Even repours have this problem, but only sometimes. And sometimes zapping the top with heat makes the top rough, but only sometimes.I can't seem to find a commonality in variables with this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silkysoycreations Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 Sounds good guys...I'm testing Peak's cinn. buns at 8% in this wax. I had something weird happen...not really frosting but about 1/2" all the way around part of the jar that looked slushy. My wick got off centered so I'm heating the entire jar and will straighten out the wick (testing new jar, wick and wax...what was I thinking?!). I'm at the point where appearance doesn't matter as much as scent throw....I can always go colorless & hide a lot of imperfections. Hubby thinks I'm crazy as he can smell everything I burn but I have to get right over the candle to really smell it (hint of it when I walk in the room). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangerine Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 My wick got off centered so I'm heating the entire jar and will straighten out the wick (testing new jar, wick and wax...what was I thinking?!).Do you pour your testers without wicks? I'm not sure how you've been testing and if you've come across this tip before. It'd be easier if you pour testers without wicks, then when they've hardened, you can poke a hole in the center with a skewer, insert your wick and then heat gun it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silkysoycreations Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 I'm self taught so probably doing a lot of things the wrong/hard way...so when you poke a hole how do you get the metal tab at the bottom so it stays? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowded House Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 You don't use a tab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silkysoycreations Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 Ok, so how does the wick stay taught (sp) and not sink into the wax? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crowded House Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 It's not in a whole container full of melted wax, just a little hole. There's not many places for it to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geekrunner Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Ok, so how does the wick stay taught (sp) and not sink into the wax?Silly! You wait for the wax to set up!geek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silkysoycreations Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 It's not in a whole container full of melted wax, just a little hole. There's not many places for it to go.Walk me through this...so you're saying don't fill a full container of wax/wick (like a regular candle) but instead fill it up 1/4, 1/2 way and poke hole for wick, wick it, heat gun it, let it set, then test?My experience so far is I get different MP when I do a first time burn to about the last 1/3-1/4 of the container. I like to try the smallest wick possible for that container & see if the sides eventually catch up but need to keep burning the candle almost all the way down. Does that make sense? How do you know how the candle will perform unless you make a 'real' candle to test? I'm all about doing it easier so please help me understand how to test properly & get good results. TIA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silkysoycreations Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 Silly! You wait for the wax to set up!geekI understood that but here is what I've been experiencing..."limp wick" ...it has only happened a few times but it has drown in the wax towards the end of the candle life....doesn't make it to the metal tab...but only a couple of times this has happened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangerine Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 Walk me through this...so you're saying don't fill a full container of wax/wick (like a regular candle) but instead fill it up 1/4, 1/2 way and poke hole for wick, wick it, heat gun it, let it set, then test?My experience so far is I get different MP when I do a first time burn to about the last 1/3-1/4 of the container. I like to try the smallest wick possible for that container & see if the sides eventually catch up but need to keep burning the candle almost all the way down. Does that make sense? How do you know how the candle will perform unless you make a 'real' candle to test? I'm all about doing it easier so please help me understand how to test properly & get good results. TIA!You fill the container with wax, just like you were making a regular candle, except that it doesn't have a wick. Once it has set up, you poke a hole in the center with a skewer, stick the wick in (no tab), and heat gun it in place. Once that has set up again, you're ready to test. This tabless wick goes all the way to the bottom. Eventually, if you get all the way to the bottom testing this particular wick, it may fall over if there isn't enough solid wax left to hold it up. At this stage you should be fine because there would be maybe around 1/2" to 1" wax left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silkysoycreations Posted August 2, 2006 Author Share Posted August 2, 2006 Ah, sounds good...thank you very much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geekrunner Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 I understood that but here is what I've been experiencing..."limp wick" ...it has only happened a few times but it has drown in the wax towards the end of the candle life....doesn't make it to the metal tab...but only a couple of times this has happened.:embarasse I see what you mean now--the wick will fall over once it gets down to a certain point. However, by that time one can determine which wick will work, then repour and wick normally for the final wick test. I usually fill a jar all the way, let it set up, drill the wick hole, and insert my wick. After a burn or two I can tell if it will work or not, and make an appropriate change if needed. In a 16 oz keepsake jar, I can get in at least eight burns before the wick falls over.HTH! geek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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