candle jar toppers and single wicking 4" jars

[geekrunner]

As most of you know, I have been testing the 16 oz Melting Pot jar in soy and GL 70/30. I have had wick drowning problems specific to that jar, and the only double wicking that does not drown out creates a full 1/2" MP in about 45 minutes. I am attributing this to weird airflow in the jar, since I have no drowning problems when single wicking, but then single wicking the 70/30 just doesn't quite cut the mustard. It leaves a 1/4" to 3/8" hangup all the way around on an LX 30. Haven't tried the HTP 1312 or 126 yet.

Now my question to the assembled masses: What is your opinion on using candle jar toppers and selling them with a candle as an integral part of the candle assembly, that is, the single wicked candle will only burn correctly with the jar topper? So far in my testing I can make the LX30 work in the 4" wide jar only if I use the jar topper to regulate the airflow and retain heat so the hangup slides down as candle burns.

I really like the jar, but it is frustrating to wick. Any opinions on the jar toppers is appreciated.

geek

[CandleCouture]

Hmmm....That's tricky. I posted another thread on the largest wicks available to try to get at this issue. I just ordered some sample Atkins and Pearce Square Braided Wicks. Those seem to be enormous. They might work...Not sure.

As for selling the capper as an integral part...Not really sure. you know some people will heed the advice, and some won't. And, of the ones that don't heed the advice, there will be some that are upset about the hangup, and some that aren't. It's not a bad idea, though. Would be curious to hear what everyone else thinks.

What is the largest wick that you have tested? And, are you having drowning issues, when you double wick, regardless of wick type? Or, are you only having that problem with LX's?

[geekrunner]

What is the largest wick that you have tested? And, are you having drowning issues, when you double wick, regardless of wick type? Or, are you only having that problem with LX's?

I've tried zinc, LXs, HTPs, and Premier 700s, all drown when double wicking using a wick size that develops a full MP in about 2 1/2 hrs. I have wicked up two sizes from that and they stopped drowning, but full 1/2 deep MP in ab 45 minutes. It takes about four burns before the drowning begins. NO mushrooming problems at all, so it is burning hot enough. When single wicking using LX28 or LX 30, significant 'shrooming.

I have tried LX30 and it leaves about a 1/4" hangup. Have not yet tried HTP1312 or 126 yet, but will.

geek

[CandleCouture]

Question. Have you tried wicking DOWN from the double wick sizes that produce a FMP in 2.5 hours, to maybe something that produces it in 3 hours? I only ask cause, from what I understand, wick drowning is from wicks stealing each other's oxygen. If they were smaller wicks, I would think they would require slightly less oxygen?

Just a thought.

[geekrunner]

Question. Have you tried wicking DOWN from the double wick sizes that produce a FMP in 2.5 hours, to maybe something that produces it in 3 hours? I only ask cause, from what I understand, wick drowning is from wicks stealing each other's oxygen. If they were smaller wicks, I would think they would require slightly less oxygen?

Just a thought.

Never tried that. I actually prefer double wicking since I have less problems with sooting and 'shrooming than with single wicks.

geek

[CandleCouture]

Yeah, that's what I mean. I meant with the double wicks that were drowning. Possibly wick down slightly...After all, a full melt pool after 2.5 hours, on a 4" diameter jar, is slightly less than ideal (although not much). I think a full melt pool after 3 or 3.25 hours, is pretty acceptable, and, the two smaller wicks might not rob each other of as much oxygen? Not sure if this will work but, it might be worth a shot?

[Lightning Bug]

Hi Geek. Personally, I like the candle caps and have thought of selling them as part of the candle set. I have never had a jelly jar or similiar shaped container candle wick that didn't flicker a lot as it went down into the jar. And this is with different soy waxes and many types of wicks. The burn with the capper is even and without sooting. Most seem to be against them, but I'm not sure why. Maybe they will chime in and give an opinion. Beth

[CandleCouture]

Here's a question. Do you know where I could find a candle capper with a more upscale look? That's the look that I'm going for with my 14 oz frosted tumblers, and, I don't know if the regular cappers would fit in with that.

Also, for people who use them, doesn't it sort of inhibit scent throw? I mean, those jars throw a bit better, scent wise, because of their wider opening and larger melt pool but, isn't that negated with the capper, where the openings at the top are MUCH smaller, thereby inhibiting the amount of fragrance released into the air?

[Vicky_CO]

Here is a place to look at

http://www.candletoppers.com/

[CandleCouture]

Do they carry cappers? I don't see them. I only see those toppers, that are decorative. Do they carry the simple cappers/venting lids?

[geekrunner]

Do they carry cappers? I don't see them. I only see those toppers, that are decorative. Do they carry the simple cappers/venting lids?

I PM'd you.

geek

[Vicky_CO]

They are called stay on tops http://www.candletoppers.com/category.cfm?Category=10

I would check ebay or levines for the simple ones.

[hewells]

I am testing the 24 oz melting pot now and cannot get it to burn properly with two wicks whether I wick up or down. I have tried 2 HTP 83's...they drowned out, two HTP 104's...same thing...2 HTP 105's same thing...I have also tried numerous 700 series. Though I am not using the GL 70/30 I am using the 415 soy. I have also tried a HTP 126 and it falls short, and HTP 1212 also the same thing. I have not tried the 1312 yet... I am waiting on a shipment of those.

I think the topper idea is a good one. If they don't follow the directions on using the topper that would be on them...just as not following directions when they burn a candle...at least this way the only damage they will have is hangup or a fizzled wick.

[CandleCouture]

Yes and no. You can't really say that, about a customer. You have to just know that most won't follow the directions. That's kinda the point of testing in sub optimal conditions (marathon burning for safety, despite the fact they are warned not to).

It's the old philosophy of putting up a "Caution: Wet Floor" sign at a supermarket. The fact that it's up does NOT limit the supermarket's liability. They are equally liable if someone slips and falls.

[hewells]

Yes and no. You can't really say that, about a customer. You have to just know that most won't follow the directions. That's kinda the point of testing in sub optimal conditions (marathon burning for safety, despite the fact they are warned not to).

It's the old philosophy of putting up a "Caution: Wet Floor" sign at a supermarket. The fact that it's up does NOT limit the supermarket's liability. They are equally liable if someone slips and falls.

I was not referring to the liability issue....my point was you can tell them to do something a certain way and they are not going to follow directions, but if the candle just fizzles out without the topper it won't cause the damage that an improperly burned candle can cause...the jar getting to hot and cracking...etc.

I think you read just a little bit to much into what I was saying;)

[CandleCouture]

No, I agree, and do understand what you are saying however, that's a bit of a narrow minded approach. You should go into it knowing that the customer won't follow this type of direction most of the time. And, while it may be true that HAD they followed directions, the candle would have burned properly, and you can tell them that, the fact remains that, in the long run, you as the merchant is the one that ends up losing when the customer doesn't buy your product again.

I think again, that's why you test under sub optimal circumstances, and you try to make the best possible product under optimal AND sub-optimal circumstances.