decocandles Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 Hi,My name is Karen. I have done many tests and I agree that you have to let the wax slush before pouring. The texture of the wax is really pretty and I also achieved a hight hot throw. That worked when I was making one candle at a time while I was doing my experiments, but when I realized it worked, I decided to fill up a jug that would make 10 candles, and let it slush. The time to let wax for one candle alone slush is about 30 min, while the time to let a jug full of wax for ten candles slush, is 3 hours. I tried burning the candle that I made in that jug with 10 candles, and guess what? It did not have hot throw. So my conclusion is that the cooling time for the wax to get slushy has to be around 30 min regardless if you make 1 candle or 10 at the time. I don't have a solution for cooling the wax that fest when I make a whole jug. I have tried putting it in the freezer... in the fridge and it just does not have the same throw. Can anyone help me?Thanks,Karen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geekrunner Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 First pleas let us know what wax/FO/wick/jar you are using, it helps out alot to know what you have. Also how much was in the pot when you were waiting for it to cool.I used Golden Brands 415 for a long time, and waited to pour when cloudy to slushy. Had great cold and hot throw, but hated waiting so long for the wax to cool. You're right, for a single candle pour it is much shorter time to wait to cool down than for a pour pot with up to three lbs of wax in it to cool, it used to take nearly an hour. If I was pouring a lot of candles of one particular scent (in this case 8 oz JJ) I only made 1 1/2 to two lbs in two or three separate pour pots at once, and have them staggered by about ten minutes each, so that after waiting ab 45 minutes to cool down I could pour four to five candles, then go to the next pot when it was ready, pour five more, then to the third pot. It's all in the numbers and planning ahead.The obvious solution to this is to create a wax mix that you can pour a little hotter, thus cutting down your wait time. Or switch to a soy that already has that pour hot quality. The GB 464 is good for that, it can be poured at around 135 and set up nice and flat. You could also either mix your own parasoy or try the Greenleaf 70/30 parasoy. The GL 70/30 can pour just after thoroughly stirring in the FO, which for me was about 165-170. My own parasoy experiments with 415 and J50 in a 70/30 configuration allowed me to pour at 150 with only the familiar parasoy "dip."I could go on and on, but I should shut up and let others chime in on this too. Be sure and let us know wha you have! geek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
decocandles Posted May 27, 2006 Author Share Posted May 27, 2006 Thanks for all the info. I have another question.... you mention about some waxes that you can pour when it is still hot... but do these waxes give you very strong hot throw? Because in my experimenting, it takes longer to cool a 8 oz tin that you pour right after mixing in the fragrance (pour at temp 165-170), then when you first let it slush in the pitcher. Of course the pitcher has more surface allowing it to cool faster, and then when I finally poured, it cooled right up and looked great. When I did the test burn comparing the one that I poured right away to the one that I let slush, the slush won hands down. So I guess my concern is... would this be the same even if I used other waxes?thanks,Karen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngelaVA Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 What wax are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sab Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 I use JSB 50/50 which I pour between 160-180. It's so much nicer to just add FO, color and pour! Great hot and cold throw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geekrunner Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 Thanks for all the info. I have another question.... you mention about some waxes that you can pour when it is still hot... but do these waxes give you very strong hot throw? Because in my experimenting, it takes longer to cool a 8 oz tin that you pour right after mixing in the fragrance (pour at temp 165-170), then when you first let it slush in the pitcher. Of course the pitcher has more surface allowing it to cool faster, and then when I finally poured, it cooled right up and looked great. When I did the test burn comparing the one that I poured right away to the one that I let slush, the slush won hands down. So I guess my concern is... would this be the same even if I used other waxes?thanks,KarenOther waxes may throw differently if poured hot vs slushy, it's really hard to say.If you get the best hot throw when pouring slushy, then by all means don't change that. You would be better off making more than one pour pot batch, stagger them by a few minutes, then after one pot cools down enough to pour, then pour it. In a few minutes, then the next pot will have cooled down enough to pour, etc. That should cut down your wait time, though may require an additional investment in extra pour pots.HTH! geek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
decocandles Posted May 27, 2006 Author Share Posted May 27, 2006 I use eco Soya 135 from Candle Science. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngelaVA Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 I tested 135 a few months ago and was pouring around 120-130 with good results. I hate waiting for the slushy stage. I'm just not patient enough for that. But if that's what works for you, then just pour in smaller batches like the other poster suggested. I'm not sure what else to tell you because I don't think you necessarily have to pour slushy with this wax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stacien Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 First of all are you using the right amount of oils per batch? You didn't specify how many ounces that single candle was. Was it 10 pounds of wax you used. It sounds more like you didn't add enough FO. There is no exact time limit on cooling that I have read. Everything plays a variable on that. The surrounding room temperature, what FO you use and how much of it you use. I haven't seen too many people guage it by clocking the cooling time as much as monitoring the temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fire and Ice Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 First of all~ did you by any chance look at the directions on the box of wax to see what temp the manufactorer recomends? If you can't find the infor, contact supplier or manufac. directly and ask.Second~ know the amount of F/O you are adding per pound. Detirman how much wax you have in your pour pot and add the right amount of F/O per pound. If you don't know, again ask wax supplier. Third~ I am assuming you are brand new to soy. Soy candles have to CURE for a time~ 3-5 days prior to testing for scent throw. Fire:cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lightning Bug Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 Hi Fire. Wish Josh would get out some more cds. He's great isn't he! Beth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candle Man Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 I have my own soy blend and pour hot @ 170*F and it has great Hot & Cold throw.The reason I blended my on soy is I can't stand to wate and pour at a slush stage, To me, it is just a waste of time and I need to pour lost of candles.By letting the wax cool down it wastes to much time to be able to pour large quanities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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