markcinna Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 Hello everyone! I have been reading this forum for a few weeks not and have gotten some really good tips. I am using 8 oz wide mouth canning jars and am using 44-28-18z wicks. I get most of my FO's from Peak. I burned one I had made with Sweet Pea from NG and it burned really well. Great melt pool, nothing left but the wick pin. But the one I burned recently (have burned several times now) doesn't want to burn well. Not hot enough I'm guessing? Small flame. Melt pool isn't fully out to sides even after 4-5 hours burning time. Any suggestions on why this would be different now? I'm guessing that I need to get another wick but which ones, there are so many that it gets confusing. I am using Candlewic Soy 120 wax right now and use 1oz FO per lb of wax. I will be switching to C-3 very shortly though. Thanks for any info you can give me. Christy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geekrunner Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 Nice to have you here! If the second candle you burned had a different FO in it, that is probably why it did not burn as well. Some FOs are heavier or lighter than each other, and not one single wick will work for all FOs in a given wax. You will need to wick up for that particular FO. If you colored the candle differently, that may affect it too, but not as much as the differing FO. Each FO will require you to test it to find the right wick for a given jar/wax combination. It's unavoidable geek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcinna Posted March 26, 2006 Author Share Posted March 26, 2006 Thank you for your reply. Yes the FO was different, as well as the coloring. What would be the next wick up from this? I actually stuck in another wick beside it this morning and it is burning fine. I don't want to have to double wick all of them though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crafty1_AJ Posted March 26, 2006 Share Posted March 26, 2006 I'd try a 51z. I agree with geek ... each and every dye / wax / fo combination is unique and has to be tested for good burning qualities. Sometimes you have to do what's called "wick up" if it's not getting a full melt pool in a reasonable amount of time. Wicking up just means use the next larger size wick.I shoot for roughly one inch in melt pool per hour. So a 3-inch wide candle should take roughly 3 hours to get a full melt pool.Hope that helps! And welcome! I'm not too far from you over here in MO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcinna Posted March 27, 2006 Author Share Posted March 27, 2006 Thanks for the advice everyone! I will get some bigger wicks. I have seen some people talk about getting wicks at BCN but for the life of me can't figure out who that is? Who is BCN? Otherwise, who is cheapest for wicks? I need 51 z and CD12's. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crafty1_AJ Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 Bitter Creek North. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcinna Posted March 29, 2006 Author Share Posted March 29, 2006 For Crafty One, I didn't know where you get your supplies, but I found a wonderful woman who is in Springfield MO. She is on E-Bay and goes by Scents of Style. She has fragrances, wicks, dyes, etc. Good prices and maybe the S&H wouldn't kill you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaybee23 Posted March 29, 2006 Share Posted March 29, 2006 Just my 2 cents but I don't care for zincs in soy, they are the coolest burning wick available and soy really needs a good hot wick to burn well. I would definately try something like the CD's you are thinking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcinna Posted April 2, 2006 Author Share Posted April 2, 2006 I have only used the zincs, what would you recommend for 4 oz and 8 oz jars? I am going to use the CD12's in my 10oz bulb jars, but I'm guessing they would work in the 10oz Apothecary jars as well. Don't see why not? I am very new to this and have had pretty good luck so far but there are so many wicks out there to choose from that it gets confusing! Thanks for all the advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grannyscandles Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 I don't think the CD 12 will work in a bulb jar. If it is wider at the center than at the top you will get hang up in the middle.I would try something larger to start with.For an 8 ounce wide mouth jelly jar I would try a CD 18. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crafty1_AJ Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 Just my 2 cents but I don't care for zincs in soy, they are the coolest burning wick available and soy really needs a good hot wick to burn well. I would definately try something like the CD's you are thinking about. I don't use zincs in soy either. But there are lots of good wicks that were made for soy / veg waxes that you could test.Yes, you could try CD's, HTP's, RRD's, LX's, Cottons.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geekrunner Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 I have only used the zincs, what would you recommend for 4 oz and 8 oz jars? I am going to use the CD12's in my 10oz bulb jars, but I'm guessing they would work in the 10oz Apothecary jars as well. Don't see why not? I am very new to this and have had pretty good luck so far but there are so many wicks out there to choose from that it gets confusing! Thanks for all the advice!You are a candidate for my super-duper Wick Chart! Send me a PM with your email address and I will send you a wick chart in Excel format. It is a compilation of various wicks anf their burning properties. It is a handy tool for noobs. I (ahem) may even equate my wick chart with the heat gun and Presto Pot as indispensable candlemaking implements! geek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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