6006 burn tests

[Gladys]

So I have finally found a wick that fits two of my jars. I use 8% FO, 6006 wax. The first 3 burns were great. I was able to burn them for up to 7 hours with no soot. Some wax residue on the sides but no tunneling. Now, on the 4th burn, they are very dim with a tiny flame that just flickers. I wonder if they need a booster since I did try the next wick up to see if they would burn evenly but it sooted up in 30 min. So I’m thinking a booster will liven up the flame and maybe give me an even burn. I’m currently using .02 .625 and these have really been great but up to the 3rd burn. Do you think the .02 .625 booster would work? 
 

the .02 .750 sooted up

and the .03 series didn’t work in any size 

[BusyBee]

Sorry!  There would not be any solution for wooden wick.

 

Problem of candle wick made out of a wood is the density of wood.  Different part of a tree can have totally different wood density due to part of a tree growing in rainy season, dry season, winter, summer, night or daytime, etc.  Tight density means no capillary action which translates into no(or weak) flame.  

 

One wooden wick can burn beautifully from start to finish.  Another wooden wick might not even lit up from the start.  One wooden wick can start burning beautifully but the flame will die down when it is hitting tight density part of wick.  There is no solution to solve this problem that I know of.  Booster wooden wick was created to increase capillary action between wood pieces, and it works to certain stage but it is not enough.  If wood is used as core and coated with some other better burning material that can provide better capillary(exterior or interior) action, then wood can be an excellent material to use as a wick.

[Gladys]

It seems that there’s no winning with wooden wicks at this point. 

[Gladys]

Is there any coating that you know of?

[BusyBee]

Figuring out coating materials is not hard.  Anything that burns well without burning odor would work nicely as coatings such as cotton, wood saw dust, special fibers, fabric without fire resistant treatment or chemical treatments, etc.  But finding a glue that can hold coatings on the surface of wood would not be an easy task.  It has to be one of natural glue that is odorless and un-harmful when it burns.  That would be trade secret.  

*If you ever figure out the glue, then you will come to a conclusion that you can actually make a wick out of special materials better than wooden wick instead of coating it.  See picture!

 

Can you pull out your wick in that picture and try to do this?  Pull that wick out and try to make cutting lines with a sharp pointed knife.  You don't want to make deep cuts, and lines do not have to go all the way down.  Just try to scratch many lines as possible (15 to 20) to make some gab lines on the surface.  Those little gab lines will make enough spaces to provide better capillary action.  

 

[Gladys]

Wow that’s amazing info, truly. I will definitely try to do that basically just kind of scoring some lines down along the wick right?

[kandlekrazy]

If that doesn't work try tapering the wood wick.  In other words use a larger than needed for first burns but trim off some from top, that way the larger portion of the wick is just in the last burns.  I don't use them but my friend does and this is how she finally got good results all the way to the bottom of the jar.

[Gladys]

Is there a video that you know of with this method. I don’t quite follow how to do it 🤦🏻‍♀️

[BusyBee]

The container will never get hot with taper wick design and provide full melt pool from top to bottom.  It will also provide less dancing flame bottom of jar. (Right amount of convection at the bottom!)

Be creative with candle making!😉

 

[Gladys]

But my problem is that the flame gets super dim at the halfway point of the jar. 
 

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