Forrest Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 I tested three double wicked 11oz tureens with 9oz 0f 6006 each. For the first night two of them looked great, and the other looked badly under wicked. By the end of the third night the one that looked under wicked is giving me a perfect melt pool and the two that looked so good the first couple of burns have very deep melt pools and are too hot to touch. I did burns of 4-4-3-3. It seems like my good wicks turned into the wicked wicks of the west on the third day. As this is my first time doing any serious testing I’m not 100% sure how to interpreted these results. I ordered a Tyler candle that is double wicked in a similar container and I’m going to burn it the same way I did these to give me something to compare my results to. Perhaps I could understand all this, if I only had a brain. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Under worked at the top for that container is appropriate. It is such a difficult container shape and proportion especially for any wax containing soy. Soy wax goes liquid when it gets warm. Many common paraffins can’t resist liquefying along with it. Heat build up inside that bellied jar with air currents can be pretty intense. This is happens in metal tins too. What seems good at the wide top suddenly goes haywire when enough container wall is able to create a convection. A perfect burn goes south in a very short time. In containers that are are wider than tall You need a wax that gels like a 4786 paraffin to hold together better in those atypical containers. I live when waxes gently slump into the melt and burn away versus the more recently trendy wide full melt pool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 16 minutes ago, TallTayl said: Under worked at the top for that container is appropriate. It is such a difficult container shape and proportion especially for any wax containing soy. Soy wax goes liquid when it gets warm. Many common paraffins can’t resist liquefying along with it. Heat build up inside that bellied jar with air currents can be pretty intense. This is happens in metal tins too. What seems good at the wide top suddenly goes haywire when enough container wall is able to create a convection. A perfect burn goes south in a very short time. In containers that are are wider than tall You need a wax that gels like a 4786 paraffin to hold together better in those atypical containers. I live when waxes gently slump into the melt and burn away versus the more recently trendy wide full melt pool. As always thank you for sharing your wisdom and experience. Yesterday I poured four more 11oz tureens to test with the smallest wicks I have. Hopefully one of those will give me something in between. You must also have ESP because you also answered my next question, which was about my single wicked 7oz tureen, and verified that I may have found a good wick to start testing with FO. From what I have seen the melt pool should not reach the full diameter of the container at the widest part, but all the wax should burn eventually. I still need to burn it for a few more nights, but after four burns it has looked good every time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 The only problem with wide, squat jars is what @Chefmom calls the tea light effect. If you light a tea light and let it burn in one session, it can burn pretty much maintenance free with no problem. If you extinguish it at any point during the burn, then later relight it, the dimensions of the candle just cant provide enough energy to reach the furthest parts of the container on that later burn, so it leaves a lot of wax, or it self extinguishes prematurely. Youve certainly chosen the most challenging container to begin with!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 1 hour ago, TallTayl said: The only problem with wide, squat jars is what @Chefmom calls the tea light effect. If you light a tea light and let it burn in one session, it can burn pretty much maintenance free with no problem. If you extinguish it at any point during the burn, then later relight it, the dimensions of the candle just cant provide enough energy to reach the furthest parts of the container on that later burn, so it leaves a lot of wax, or it self extinguishes prematurely. Youve certainly chosen the most challenging container to begin with!! Well of course I have, but I'm a lot closer to the end than to the beginning. If none of these last four testers don't give me something I can work with I'll have to either give up, or order a few more wicks. I'm not sure I suffer from the tea light effect because once you get down to the belly of the tureen the currents you told me about help spread the heat. I think if I cut back on the wax a little so that the smaller wicks don't have to burn as long to get that effect. The others burned 8 hours before they created a good melt pool. Of course if the melt pool doesn't reach the edge the currents are reduced. It is going to be a balancing act. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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