Differentiating between wax problems/FO problems/wick problems

[jbrooks]

Okay, sorry for the long topic title!  I am still in the testing phase (on and off for roughly one year) and I have a hard time telling which element is giving me an issue when I test.  I am mainly trying to start this thread to focus on how you may be able to narrow down problems during the testing phase. I definitely could use some guidance, and I'm sure a quick list would be good for others as well.

 

For instance, if you are using a fragrance oil and the cold throw is great, but you get no hot throw(my current issue)... would you suspect this to be an issue with your wax, your FO, or your wick?  I would assume it would be a wicking issue, since there is a good CT, but I'm not sure if I'm thinking about it properly.  There are all kinds of issues that show up like this and I assume some of the more seasoned board members generally look to one of the 3 (wax/FO/wick) for certain issues. For us newbies, when it's so hard to tell which element isn't working, it's easy to want to scrap it all and try something totally different across the board. 

 

The biggest ones seem to be related to throw - no HT/no CT, good HT/CT but weak on the other, great burn but no throw, etc etc etc, Another biggie seems to be smoking/sooting wicks. I've had so many times I thought a wick was working well, but still had too much smoke!

 

Looking forward to hearing any input, and thanks for reading!

[Guest OldGlory]

It's a good idea to start this sort of topic with 1) which wax you are using 2) which wicks you are using 3) which containers you are using 4) which fragrance you are using and where it's from. All of these options will create different results.

With regard to the way fragrance is throwing, it could be the FO, it could be the wax, and it could be you (your own person sense of smell). Fragrance is coming from the melted wax - just like with melts, the fragrance is coming from the melted wax.

If you are getting smoke/soot, it's probably the wick.

The only way to get an answer is thru process of elimination. One fragrance at a time, one container at a time. Keep really detailed notes each time you make a change, that way you won't be tempted to try that same group of variables again.

[jbrooks]

I agree OldGlory, the only way to know for sure is lots and lots of testing and notes. I was simply suggesting that in some situations it seems like there would be sort of a catchall suggestion (ie- great CT/no HT - probably the wick) etc etc. I wasn't just asking about my particular set of variables so much as a starting reference point for certain issues.

Thanks for you input!!!

[Vicky_CO]

It would be so nice if there was a catch all answer. The art of candle making is 1 part science 1 part experience 1 part luck. If all those parts align you have a good candle. if one fails it back to the drawing board to start over or like oldglory said processes of elimination to which is off.

[Scented]

So I would be looking at first the candle itself. What kind of melt pool are you getting? If it isn't producing a standard mp, then it might be the wick. If it's producing a decent mp, then I would look at the percentage of FO. If it all matches out, I'd start looking at the container before I'd look at the wax, because you already have a cold throw, now you need the ht. Could it be the container is holding in the scent? 

When testing on something like this though, I'd start with the wick. Test different wicks that are comparable to this. If none of them are throwing, look at the FO. There are some FOs that frankly have a great ct but fizzle on the ht. 

This is just me ... however, when everything else fails, then I'd look at the wax and find out what the known problems are with that particular wax. Hope that makes sense. 

Edited November 4, 2014 by Scented

[Chefmom]

I always start my testing of a new wax in the same way.  I choose the container that I want, the wax, and then I pull from my >>very<< large selection of testing wicks.  I take 2-4 pounds of the test wax and pour about 20 half full containers of about 5 different kinds of wicks, three or four sizes of each kind.

 

So for a test of say a basic tumbler I would choose the wax and then pull three or four sizes of LX, HTP, ECO, CD, maybe CSN and maybe cotton cored depending on the wax.  I don't usually use zincs.

 

So each container gets marked as to the wick so I don't get them mixed up as I pour.  Then, I pour straight uncolored and no fragrance wax and fill the containers half full.

 

After a couple of days I put them ALL on my dining room table and light up.  I burn three to four hours and I give a good look and take notes every 30 minutes.  What I'm looking for is what wick is working the best in JUST the wax/container combo.  Also I want to know what that wick is doing in the bottom of the container without having to burn over and over from the top to the middle just to find it works in the beginning and not in the end.

 

Once I have the winners, sometimes one or two in each kind of wick I make NOTES of everything and then choose some fragrances and colors.  THEN I choose the winning wick, lets say the winner was an ECO 4.  I will pour three or four containers with the color and fragrance with and ECO 2, 4 and 6, let that cure etc and then test again.  Once fragrance is added I can no longer burn all three at once or the fragrance will be overwhelming.  Plus I won't be able to tell what wick is throwing the fragrance the best.

 

Then, the test begins.  In a day I will burn the first candle and take notes.  I burn 3-4 hours and then wait an hour, go outside to breathe, walk the dogs etc and then burn the second, repeat and then the third.  My notes will talk about the wicks and what they are doing and where the fragrance is going in my house etc.  I then burn to the end and take notes all the way.

 

In the beginning my testing was all over the place, but I'm very scientific about it now.  You can never take too many notes.

 

I always advise people to do the mass burn if you can of plain wax and wicks.  seeing them all in the same place at the same time will teach you a LOT about wicks and how each one of them works on their own.  Once you learn the wicks and the wax, when you are having issues with fragranced candles in the future you can more easily narrow down your issues when they arise.

[chuck_35550]

It's the wax. If the wax is so finnicky that you have to hold your mouth to the left to get it to perform; switch wax. I know there are people who use 415 and swear by its qualities but it never performed for me without a whole lot of hoop jumping; switched wax. I started with J-50 and moved up to J-223 with zinc wicks and poured all kinds of fos in all kinds of jars and never had a problem with anything but the tops. Heat it, color it, fragrance it, pour it, and sell it. Customers who liked strong bakery choke off your air scents buy a candle with a strong cold and hot throw and customers who like complex, subtle fragrances buy a candle with a soft cold and hot throw. Fragarane oils are either stong or light by design with a particular medium(s) in mind. I buy fos for soy wax that will work in bath and body applications in one ounce testers. Pour em up and test. No time for needle in hay stack companies. If I choose 12 fragrances and only one or two performs? Move on. If my wax got to where it wouldn't perform no matter what company, wick, container or other factor works? Time to change da wax. Either your wax will or it won't and you should be able to figure that out pretty quick. HTH

Steve