Tiff Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 Do you make a batch of something and set them somewhere in a row with dates burned and results? Im reading that its a good idea to test a day/week after making and then again later to see if the wick still was appropriate (I dont understand what changes in that time.. the wax hardness affects the wick?)I have been taking a lot closer look at these I sell and my friend sure does do something right. there are NO wetspots, the tops are even and firm, she puts glitter on top.. what does that do i wonder. The melt pool is great.. about 30 mintues for a full melt pool (am i saying that right?) there is no hang up at all and only a slight residue. all the wax melts leaving nothing but the wick tab. Shes been doing this i think 3 yrs and has a store with all sorts of sizes, bath products, body sprays you name it! Oh off topic.. anyway so Im thinking i need a good work surface to test and burn and keep records but just how many of one batch should you test? I read once about a day later and once weeks later but then I read that some 6 months down the road turned out needing a different wick.Thanks! (again lol)TiffPS: sorry if Im being pest with my questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatinDucky Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 The melt pool is great.. about 30 mintues for a full melt pool.I'm just learning soy and haven't done containers of it yet. Is it supposed to reach full pool that fast? Boy, this soy is a whole different beast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaybee23 Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 30 mins sounds a little fast to have a MP with soy. It is "usually" guaged on a one inch per hour of burning. That must be one fast burning candle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vicky_CO Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 30 minute to a full melt pool is way to fast. That candle will not only burn up very fast boy I can just imagine how hot that jar is getting scary.How I test is pretty easy I put a big label on my jars on that label is wax recipe Wick sizeFO and % of FOAmount of dyeThen I start my burns and write on my label how long I burned and a short notation of the burn I abreviate everything so I can get a lot of info on there. After the candle is finished I pull the label and tranfer all the info to my notes under that FO in my filing system. I have another file for differant recipe that I have tried and I name them so it is it easy just to look up each recipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiff Posted January 4, 2006 Author Share Posted January 4, 2006 Maybe Im getting *melt pool* incorrect. I lit one today and timed it. it took about 35 minutes for the top to be almost melted but there is no depth to the melted wax yet. Is meltpool when the melted wax is deep enough to measure? That must be right because the jar is not so hot I can't pick it up and move it and these burn for about 30 hours. Sorry for the confusion, I'm just learnin Tiff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beth-VT Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 Tiff, you were right to begin with if I read right. When referring to "full melt pool" that means that the entire top of the candle has melted clear out to the edges of the container. Ideal depth is generally about 1/4" (but can be deeper with tins). If you container is 3" in diameter, you want to try and achieve a completely liquid top by around 3 hours. 30 minutes is considered way to fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiff Posted January 4, 2006 Author Share Posted January 4, 2006 I went back to the mod thread of FAQ and read the melt pool post. I was speaking incorrectly about melt pool. sorry about that. Tiff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holly Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 Hi Tiff,Does she double wick? What size jar is it? Double wicking will acheive a meltpool faster but 35 minutes would still be too fast for double wicking, especially if it is soy. I am thinking that maybe it is double wicked in a narrow jar. I double wick and even though I acheive a faster melt pool than single wicking it still takes at least 3 to 4 hours to acheive a complete meltpool in my jars with the soy I use. However, it is one of the slower burning soys that I have used. I have to double wick with this soy in my jars or I would never acheive a complete meltpool and it would tunnel down. When I used a paraffin blend in my jars and double wicked, the meltpool happened MUCH quicker. I then made sure that it did not get too deep to quick. There are many paraffin blends that burn too fast for double wicking. You have to find one that has a slower burn rate or you will end up with an inch deep meltpool -- unless the jar is VERY wide. The main thing when double wicking a softer wax is the meltpool maintaining a nice depth -- not getting too deep to quick. Good luck with your candlemaking venture! It does involve a lot of testing and can become very frustrating at times. But, if you stay persistent, you can produce a nice candle which burns correctly. ~Holly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CelestialSoyCandles Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 I started making candles 3 years ago.. I make only pure soy candles - in my 8 oz candles - I do not get a full melt pool till about 3-4 hours... and thats pretty standard amongst my candle making friends... which is also why you get good burn times out of soy - since it is supposed to be slow burning - what wicks are you using?? Heather Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holly Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 I forgot to add. Most often I do my first test burn 48 hours after I make it. I then test it all the way down over a certain period of time -- no specific time frame. I usually have to try a few different sized wicks to make sure of which wick to use but sometimes, the first one is the one. After I decide on a wick, I usually make another one with the wick adhered and test again. Sometimes if the first wick I choose is the right one I can burn it all the way down right before it will fall over and not have to make another one with it adhereed because I know how it burned from top to bottom -- with about an 1" to 1 1/2" left at the bottom. But, if I have any doubt I make another one with it adhered. I put small sticky tabs on the candles listing the wax, FO, amount of FO. I have not really put the date that I make them, but that would be a good idea. If I am testing wax, I then have to indicate pour temps, additives, etc. I store my candles in cubboards in the kitchen and in our kitchen closet (pantry). It gets a little crowded and this is why I need to move out to the shop. Counter top space is a necessity for candlemaking. I have also been reading about the soy becoming harder over time and may need a wick change. I am now concerned about this. I have noticed I have a few candles which I spent a lot of time (testing) choosing a wick and found out later that it either seems too large or too small. This is madening. I have two right now that have this problem and I am retesting. Maybe this hardening thing has something to do with it. However, it is not happening with all my candles, just a few that were kinda inbetween one wick and the other and I chose what I thought was best. But, actually, I have one now that neither of the wicks seem to be working the same. REALLY frustrating. This is all part of candlemaking. Ugh....Anyway, good luck!~Holly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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