Grani L Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Bidding a good day to all. I have a question concerning step #1 of candle testing. I heated to 175 and poured the Ecosoya 135 at 150. No FO. Only Wick and Wax. Used a CD 10 Wick and an 8 oz Tin. -- Tops were perfect after set up.So after a couple days, (on last night) I tested it. It burned beautifully for 3 1/2 hours. It didnt fully reach the sides of the container, and the container wasnt too hot. But I believe it will melt down as the sides warm on further burnings. So when I looked at it this morning, the top looked rough, not smooth. So my question is, what is my next move? What additive should I test and add to this wick and wax combo to smooth the top? I can not move on to adding any FO until I get this straight! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chefmom Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 That's a soy thing, even if the tops are nice after pour, after burning they can be pitted and wonky looking.Hopefully a soy person will chime in, but in my limited soy tests I'm seeing that after burning the top of the wax looks completely different.I would keep testing your set up and make sure you have an even burn to the end, they try out your fragrances with that wick and go from there. The joys of testing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Very typical in soy - all waxes I have used have done this and it doesn't concern me enough to try and fix it- it's when it starts to grow cauliflower after each burn or at the end of the burn that I consider it a problem and was told that means the melt pool is not getting hot enough causing the change of what's been burnedWicking up has fixed this for me and can sometimes can be tricky finding the balance of making sure the container doesn't get to hot or to deep of a melt pool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grani L Posted January 17, 2013 Author Share Posted January 17, 2013 Alright- I will continue to monitor as it burns down and see if or not it will come together at some point. If not, I will wick up. Is there another wick recommendation besides the CD for Ecosoya 135? And if I was to blend this wax with paraffin, would CD wicks still be sufficient? I have read that LX was better for this wax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 When I used 135 I did use LX wicksI believe I used the 22 in the 8 ounce mason jar- I would have to look to be sure it was a long time ago! LolBut they worked nicely in that wax - I don't remember if I tried CD or HTP also...I know I did with 464 but I now use 415 and CD and CDN wicks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grani L Posted January 17, 2013 Author Share Posted January 17, 2013 Moonshine - with the 415 being 100% soy, do you blend this wax with another soy or paraffin and use any additives, or do you only use Wax, wick, and FO? I may pick up a box of the 415 to test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 (edited) It's sooooo easy! Pick up some 8oz Masons, Cds, Cdns & have fun!Moonshine - with the 415 being 100% soy, do you blend this wax with another soy or paraffin and use any additives, or do you only use Wax, wick, and FO? I may pick up a box of the 415 to test. Edited January 17, 2013 by ChandlerWicks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 (edited) I use straight 415 with just a touch of USA and it is amazing- it took me a awhile to figure it out - my tops were horrid and wet spots like no other but now it's sooo easy breezy and 98% of the time awesome HT with tons of different FO'sHuge difference from 135 and 464...IMO but I do still like the others and still use them also Edited January 17, 2013 by moonshine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grani L Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 Ok.. I will put the 415 on my list to test. Do u use the cdn's for heavier fo's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Opposite for me- the ones that the cd burns a touch to hot I try the CDN and it burns a little cooler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmc Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 If you want to continue to use 100% soy, you can achieve a creamy, great looking candle every time by 'tempering' the wax. It looks great after subsequent burns as well...you can also use USA along with tempering. Type in temper or tempering in search box and you will pull up numerous threads on it. Basic instructions are.....heat wax (you can add up to 1 tbs USA pp at this time) to 185*, remove from heat and let cool to slush stage, heat back up to 185*, add color, remove from heat, add fo and stir, pour at temp you find best for the wax. To save time, I'll heat wax up at night, then let it cool overnight, reheat when Im ready next day. Tempering takes away that cauliflower look and it helps to eliminate the 'bubbles' in soy like C3. hth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grani L Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 Thanks a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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