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I use hemp oil in a Beer soap and it is a soap I have never had DOS, other soaps yes. I only make it 5 lbs at a time so it does not sit around to long although I have actually had some last almost a year. I do add in ROE and do a low superfat 3% so maybe that makes the difference. I love hemp in solid lotion but make small batches and yes it can go rancid. I purchase the unrefined hemp oil from Soapers Choice. They do have refined

I use hemp milk that I buy also. I sprinkle my hemp seeds on salads!

manitobaharvest.com has the recipe for making hemp milk. I purchase mine directly through them.

I have used Manteca brand with no problems. I do not add ROE to my lard soaps. I always soap at 0-3% superfat and have no problems with brittleness.

I make my beer soap the same way up until today I have never had a problem. Fortunetly I always prepare for eruptions and today it did, fortunetly not out of the pitcher that was in a sink just in case. I can verify that even beer in the fridge open for 5 days and is cold can still erupt. Although this was a new beer from a micro brewery that had not been filtered so maybe that was the difference. It had been boiled then in an open container in the fridge for 5 days. I have made many batches of beer soap and this is the first problem with beer. I have had wine volcano out of the lye pitcher. The beer from this brewery I will boil and freeze. My usual beer to soap with is Shock Top and after a 5 min boil and cool in the freezer gives me no problems. I also forgot to add that I did do a water discount that is never advisable with beer, wine or any other liquor in soap. It is now in the mold in the freezer for an hour

No, it is a company that supplies chemicals. I just started looking up chemical suppliers in my area. I had to prove I am a soapmaker and pickup is strict. Id, Car License etc, but well worth the cost. I get mine from Gallade in Santa Ana, Ca

Just a thought. If any of you live in an area where you can find a chemical house you can usually get lye for much less. I pay $42 for 50 lb bags.

When I make my avocado soap I puree my avocado 1-2 med with just enough aloe & coconut milk to make a nice smooth puree. I also add some lime juice, lemon or citric acid to prevent the dark discoloration and my avo soap never turns dark. I soap with 50/50 lye solution and use the puree as the remainder of my liquid. I use an Avocado FO with lemongrass and bergamot. Makes great soap. I also make a beer and avocado soap with is very nice with lots of lather. My soap batches are 5lbs

My Dragon's Blood goes very chocolate brown and it is my best selling soap. I just tell my customers not to use a $20 white wash cloth!!

I use 75% CO, 10% Sunflower or Avocado, 7% Shea Butter, 8% Castor Oil, with a 20% superfat and it makes a great salt bar, which I cut in 45 minutes

I absolutely would not even come close to considering such, just sounds like an accident waiting to happen. Plus the fact it would have to be a stainless steel pressure cooker, and I just cannot see any point to cooking soap under pressure. Do remember the escaping steam is going to contain lye. I would not even consider it in my large canner that has very heavy duty lockdowns for the lid. The average pressure cooker is just not completely reliable either. Not sure why it takes you so long and I do not do a lot of hp, not my favorite type of soap, but it only takes me about 20 min max

Your terrarium is very pretty. I love terrariums with gekos. You just need to add lights and a screen top to house a geko!!

PKO and CO are both high lather cleansing oils. Castor is a funny animal, to much and it works the opposite and no longer supports bubbles. I agree with TallTayl castor is not bubbly on its own. I make 100% castor ls soap paste and it has zip lather, I just used it for blending my ls bases. I make many many milk soaps and have no problem with lather. I do add in powdered sugar to my additional liquids. (I soap 50/50 lye solution). If adding sugar to your lye solution dissolve the sugar in your liquid thoroughly before adding in you lye, otherwise you will risk having crystalized sugar in the bottom of you lye mix

I have put wooden molds in the oven for oven process when I need to rescue a batch of soap. I am not real sure wood would not dry out over time. I use hdpe mold almost exclusive now and if a batch of cp goes wonky I put them in the oven. I am assuming you are trying to accomplish forcing gel. I personally hate hp but do use the mold in the oven when necessary

I buy my tumeric eo from them, and a few others. No problems with them

I always have at least a gallon of 50/50 lye solution made up. I buy my cocoons from Mulberry Farms in Fallbrook Ca. Will warn that they are whole freeze dried and the pupa is still inside. So if there are issues which such I would not buy them. They are a finer silk than tussah and I have not decided it the glue from the cocoon adds anything to the final feel or not. Still testing

I always 5 or 6 buckets ready to go with all my oils and butters and soap room temp with 50/50 lye solution that I make up 2 gallons at a time. Saves a lot of time when the lye is ready to go. The only time I mix lye before soaping is if I am going to add a silk cocoon. They will not dissolve in room temp lye

You can replace CO with Palm Kernel for the hardness

The oil that gives me problems is rice bran. I do use a lot of canola and have not had a problem with it

You could always leave out the coco butter and see what happens. Less than 5% really would not be much benefit other than label appeal in my thinking. Are you possibly using any clays or coconut milk? I find coconut milk speeds up trace for me. Also if you are not using full water you could up the liquid it will slow the trace time, but certainly up the cure time.

I use NG's at 1 oz ppo of oil and it never fades for me, and even sticks a while after the shower. It is a big seller for me in soap and lotions. I do soap room temp and do not get so maybe that is the difference.

Even my neem, honey and goat's milk soap does not gel in the 12 cavity silicone mold, which is why I use it for this recipe. It is such a heater upper I have a tough time with it in my hdpe loaf molds.

I would guess it is the palm and coco butter causing the quick trace. High palmitic and stearic will accelerate trace. If you are water discounting you could also try more water to slow it down

I usually use .02% roe. I do not use other soft oils with my hemp oil soap and never go over 5% superfat

I always have hemp soap in stock and have yet to have it go rancid. I actually have one I put away almost a year ago and it is still fine. I do keep superfat at 5%. Who knows, maybe my eo blend and my oil combination help deter problems. Sunflower oil has given me problems with dos at times