Gene

To help people who are experimenting with master batching and pre-mixed lye here are the ratio's for lye percentages.

Remember record the weight of your container, water, and lye so that when solution has cooled you can replace evaporation loss.

lye weight x water weight =solution ratio (%)

(Lye parts) x (water parts) = solution ratio (%)

1x 1.0= 50%

1x 1.15= 46.5%

1x 1.2= 45.45%

1x 1.25= 44.44%

1x 1.3= 43%

1x 1.4= 41.66%

1x 1.5= 40%

1x 1.6= 38%

1x 1.7= 37%

1x 1.75= 36%

1x 1.8= 35.7%

1x 1.9= 34.5%

1x 2= 33%

1x 2.1= 32%

1x 2.3= 30%

lye weight (1) x water rate (2.3) = solution ratio (30%) for this example

1:2.3 = 30% solution

lye weight (1) x water weight (1.5) = solution ratio (40%) for this eg.

1:1.5 = 40% solution

I have a bunch of the 9oz I might part with

Hi, if you use water that was brewed with herbal tea in your soapmaking, do you have to label everything that was in the tea? Or is there a different way you are supposed to do it?

TIA

On soap you aren't required to list ingredients, but if you list one,you must list all

Sounds like the Apres Glow recipe from the soap dish.

Yep, sound that's what I thought

I have trouble getting red's with my RBO. Even with red oxide it comes out purple. I use riceland. Any suggestions Gene? (or anyone else)

For now I just use Olive instead of RBO when I'm shooting for reds..

I use mostly fd&c color and don't have problems. Don't understand why the oil would cause problems? Color mutations in soap are nearly always a result of the high ph

Have you tried D&C red 33 Lake?

I use RBO all the time now and have never found any problems with coloring that I didn't have with OO. Doe's your RBO have additives? The high temp additive cause problems with soap.

i list alcohol in my ingredients labeling Lindsay.

Shouldn't be any left once they dry?

I bought some on my last visit with the plan of duping. Well, I relly liked it and with the cost of numerous different formulations I deciced that it would be more cost effective to buy it. They are local to me so I save on shipping and $15 gal is a good price.

The stuff is fantastic! Doesn't wash off easily

is this from ky candle? If so, just keep whipping, also helps to warm it gently

Not wanting to hijack, but what is a false trace? This is the first I've seen that.

If you are soaping at low temps,the oils will thicken the instant the lye hit's it, looking like a medium-heavy trace. At this point you might panic and want to throw it in the mold, but in a few seconds it will start to heat up and thin out.

I use RT oils and a 40% lye solution, I see false trace every time:D

I have to agree. If you're looking for a true fisherman's soap ... go with Anise Oil! My uncle (an avid fisherman and guide) uses the pure Anise oil on all of his fishing supplies (and himself).

From what he says, it truly works!

I am also a fishing guide:D It works!!!

Anise EO is one of the oldest fish attractants. It was illegal to use in 11 states until around 1970. The first commercial fish attractant spray was called "FISH FORMULA" and was anise EO in a carrier oil. Not only is it appealing to fish,it helps cover human odors.

I was going to make some castille soap, inspired by a friend with very sensitive skin.

Do i just do 100% olive? I was sure it was 90% Olive and 10% something else but for the life of me, i cannot remember what that 10% was?

PKO, i've also done 100% OO

Have we talked about this before, need a blend that will take the stink out of peoples hands , all suggestions appreciated.

Coffee soap w/ sweet orange works

I'm running to Hallmark today to get some and check ingredients to see if emulsified. I really like the thickness of it. You say Green Leafs is not emulsified? Are there any (preferably a soy formula) butters that are emulsified that I only have to add fo? Thanks for all the help.

try the soy whip body butter

http://www.kycandlewaxsupply.com/

Do you have any of the Hallmark butter? If so, post the ingredient list and we'll help figure it out:D

Dragon lily's "polar bear purple" will give you any shade you want

add the fo to the oils before the lye. I do it all the time:D

Bunny...Ok I will up the ewax. I try to use conditioning emulsifier when I have it on hand and I was told that I can use up to 10% with it in scrubs.

Gene...Well I never thought of storing it without the sugar. Does it help keep it longer?

Josie...Yea the soap does help hold it together better and it helps reduce some of the "oil slick" when your finished scrubing. I have used soap one time and really like the end result just not the before. I probally added to much soap. I'll have to try that again.

Thanks!

C

Probably not. I make 100 oz batch and whip it as needed. Letting it "set" for a day or 2 makes for a better finished product

I get the best results by letting the scrub mixture set for a day or 2 before adding sugar.

I actually make up a large batch( without sugar) , store it in a bucket and take out what I need to whip up for each fragrance

citrus EO's are sun sensitizers

It will not replace the Ewax, but might replace some of the stearic. Adding soy wax would make it firmer. The ewax is nessesary and is what make the scrub take on a lotion like texture when it mixs with water

You already have 25% oil which should be enough. Was the shea oily and soft or firm? I would whip it some more and see what hapens. I normally use 20% or a little less oil with Agbanga shea

Wire type cheese slicer:D

Those are cool. Are the trays from the sporting goods store like that?

No, that is the point I wanted to make. The trays from the sporting goods store are reloading trays ( I reload a lot and have several) They are for holding cartridge cases that have been charged with powder, and the bottoms are not open.

The lip balm trays are expensive, but would be an intelligent investment if you make lots of lip balms.

I don't make that many at a time, so a rubber band around 15-20 tubes and a condiment bottle ( restaurant style ketchup bottle) works fine.

"The tray" would make perfect tops on the balms and I'll probably be making a purchase soon (hopefully)