bramoncada

OK! so my shipment of tumbler glasses and Votives have arrived.. Im going to use a ecosoya 135 and a 464 blend for the votives. I was wondering i know people wash there tumblers and votives and then heat them in the oven for a bit.. However im pouring directly into the glass and was planning on doing so at 145 degrees.. If anybody has any input on past experience with what i just said please let me know! thanks guys!

how do you think Ecosoya CB 135 would do in the votive.. i am not using a mold im pouring directly.. i also had a question about pretabed wicks and the little stickes.. does that look odd when used in votives.. sorry for the questions! THANK YOU

Any input on that moonshine or anybody?

Well I keep on finding that 464 is a favorite for newcomer ( like myself) after researching its incredible throw ability it just made sense. HOW COME THE VETS DONT USE 464!?!?!?!

Im assuming the LX 30 is bigger??? I suppose the only real issue we have to worry about is tunneling.. so im guessing im looking for the biggest wick i can find?

My tops after i pour are always smooth as a babies behind. However the post burn "moon cratering" is what im trying to get to the bottom of. I melt the 464 to 185 degrees and then I add my FO... i let it cool and pour at 135.

Any other suggestions for single wicking?

correction.. on what to do to not have the moon crater effect on post burns rather.

Yea the person didn't really elaborate on how to smooth the tops...

Would any of you guys be willing to attach a picture of what your rough tops look like? I will post a picture of mine and we can compare... 415 has smooth tops really????

Yea i think people have been saying double wick with eco 10... but id really prefer if there was some way to single wick these bad boys theres gotta be a way right?

That was quoted from a user in a different thread.. I'm trying to get to the bottom of this uncertainty here. HAHAHAAH.. EVERYBODY HAS A DIFFERENT OPINION!!

There is no reason to settle for crappy cottage cheese tops with the selection of waxes we have today and the amount of technical knowledge and tips people have shared. I use NatureWax C3 and have nice, smooth tops all the way to the end of the candle. Its formula is reported to be quite similar to GB 464. Other waxes contain "botanical oils," (cottonseed oil, coconut oil, palm oil, etc.) which help smooth the consistency and stabilize the crystal structure of soy wax. Certain FOs can still mess up even the best wax, but most are compatible with soy wax these days. Some dyes can still encourage frosting, but many dyes are far kinder to soy wax than even 5 years ago. Pretty much, only the "100%" soy waxes (EZ Soy, GB 415, etc.) still have bedhead on a regular basis. Manufacturers and candlemakers have worked hard to learn how to stabilize the appearance of soy wax. There's a lot of information about how to do this in the threads, so if the tops on your candles look like cottage cheese after they are burned, do some studying and you may learn how to get better results. No one has to settle for the "it's the nature of soy wax" excuse these days. HTH

I'm sorry the "rough tops" wording is confusing. I was more referring to the post burn rough tops.

Ive seen a lot of threads about rough tops and using soy. I started making soy candles a while ago and went with GB 464 because according to the people at candle science it had the best throw. After using that for a while i noticed that the throw was great, my wicking was great, however the tops looked AWFUL. I read a few more threads and decided that i wanted to keep the high throw value of GB 464 but loose the rough tops. After reading more threads i came to the conclusion that CO (coconut oil) would be a likely remedy. I since have been using the CO and it has helped however it still has a rough top and is not perfect.. Which i want. My delimma is that I value having the best throw i can possibly have, but the rough tops are too much to bare. Can we have a discussion about your experience with rough tops and possible SOLUTIONS? THANK YOU!

And your opinion is much appreciated by the way.

Oh alright.. I supposed the reason that I assumed you were implying that a switch was necessary was because you offered a alternative wax and some other interesting facts but didn't really elaborate on the 464's "moon cratering". It seems that the 464 has a lot of threads with this problem as well.....

If i were hell bent on having 100% pure soy wax or using GB 464.

Your solution to not having the rough top was to switch waxes. So if we don't want rough tops, we have to use wax with additives?

I forgot to mention i didnt want to double wick which is why im asking this question here.

So i guess im wondering what fans of 100% pure soy wax candles would say.. and what fans of GB 464 would say to that.

Hey guys how are you!? So I'm shooting to make a 16oz candle using GB 464 and this tin. http://www.candlescience.com/containers/16oz-candle-tin/ HOWEVER. Instead of wasting money on wicking i was wondering if anybody had any helpful tips or took a stab at this.. THANKS GUYS!

In response to the selling of the poor candle.. If we are here im assuming to sell soy candles. I was under the impression that when burned and then cooled. Soy candles ( i use gb464) will always have a type of ugly rough top because its in the nature of the soy. Any one have anything to add onto this?

yea i was actually going to keep the wax in a glass votive. So would that be ok?

So I was in a rush and i wasnt thinking and just poured my 464 into its container at 185 degrees..anybody ever do this and know the effect?