simplybeelightful

I LOVE that! I also love tins but never know what to do with them. How cute would a bunch of those be lining your sidewalk?

A fire what?

Check similar melters on www.candlewic.com. You won't ever regret getting a melter. Nothing even compares with the safety and reliability of a water jacketed system. I leave mine on 24/7. One thing though, I would fill it with vegetable oil. That way you never have to worry about evaporation or steam. My large melter took over 5 gallons of oil but was well worth the expense. (got my oil through a wholesale supplier)

Sorry, didn't mean to ruffle any feathers! Just asked what the name meant to her.

That is absolutely stunning. Going to have to try making those myself. As far as the wicking. I use 60 ply flat braided wicks for my 3" beeswax pillars and they work beautifully.

I filled my water jacketed melter with vegetable oil and check the level once a year just to make sure it's okay (which it always is) and I have no issues with steam coming off the melter like I did with water. By the way, my melter runs 24/7.

So why are you sticking with the little bee if you're not making products with beeswax? That seems a little more misleading than the organic part.

I don't know, I only make beeswax candles

My first business name was D Bar Farms Soaps and Sundries. Everyone wondered what sundries was. ha wanted something simple, thought my candles were delightful and everything I make is based around beeswax and honey so... Simply BeeLightful!

I get my beeswax coated wicks from Candlewic

amen!!

I don't think I do. Sorry. I will try to get one to post.

Buy wick pins!!!

I would recommend beeswax, of course, but you are probably going to make container candles so, there goes that. I started out with a roaster, went to two roasters so I could have yellow beeswax in one and white in the other. Always colored and scented my wax in the pouring pot. Then I went to a home made wax melter for the yellow wax (it held about 50 lbs of wax). Now I have a wax table and I love it. It is stainless steel, water jacketed, and holds a large vat for white wax, a large vat for yellow wax, and six smaller vats for colors. Also have a seven vat dipping tank but haven't had time try it yet.

Be sure to put up a peg board behind your table to hang tools on. This is also where I hang my spools of wick and then I can just roll and cut off what I need. I cover my worktable (a countertop mounted on legs) with cardboard for easy cleanup. The cheapy plastic drawer sets make great storage for unused molds. I have several "stations" set up in my workshop, i.e. pouring table, wicking table, packaging, etc. My wicking table has several recycled fireball candy containers that hold votive wicks, tealight wicks and tealight cups. Don't do anything too permanent until you figure out what works best, you will always re-arrange.

I have always #2 for everything except pillars and had no problems with it. That is what I would suggest. I personally know of one beekeeper in Sacramento, CA that does refine white beeswax. Don't know if he would be interested in doing yours or not. Have you talked to the beekeeper you bought the wax from and informed him of the problems? That would be my first step. Tell the guy he sold you some crappy wax and see if he makes the price right. If not, go from there. Like I said before, I'm sorry you ran into this problem buying from a beekeeper, and I'm not sure what to do in your position.

It sounds like you definitely did not get cappings wax and, unfortunately, I don't know how sellable the dark wax will be. People look for nice light yellow wax that has the honey smell. And, I'm not sure how well the candles will burn. I would go with 60 ply flat braided cotton wicks for the pillars and #2 square braided cotton wicks for everything else. Make sure you test the candles well to make sure they are going to burn. My only other suggestion would be to have someone "bleach" the dark wax. You probably won't end up with white wax but it may at least end up a lighter yellow. (I know, this will only cost you more money but may be the only way to sell the candles) Sorry you had this experience. Beekeepers like that give the rest of us a bad name.

DITTO on all points. You will never regret making beeswax candles.

I waited until Candlewic had a good sale on votive molds and got them very cheap. Also try EBay.

I wouldn't make votives without using wick pins. It is so much easier to get the wicks centered and, I always had problems keeping the wicks standing up while the votive cooled, not any more. Just make sure to spray your molds, with the wick pins in, often to keep them from sticking

Well, of course, you should know that I would suggest beeswax! :smiley2: I would try unscented beeswax and, as I do, you can still color the candles without scenting them.

I think you would have plenty customers but, here's an idea. Donate a part of your proceeds to a cause benefiting our troups, advertise that HEAVILY and you will do well.

That's exactly why I never did a show that allowed anything but all handmade items. You usually have to pay more for "juried" shows but it's well worth it!

I never put damaged products out to sell at shows. I think you always want to have your best stuff out there. Give the damaged stuff to your friends and explain the damage to them. If they like the candles, they'll tell their friends and maybe you'll get some business out of it!

Just a couple of notes I should have added to my last post. I use the 76 coconut oil that I also use for soaping, just up the beeswax a little bit to make it harder. My recipe makes 50 lip balms at at time and, if I don't want that many of one flavor, I just add the flavor to part of the big batch and therefore can make several flavors with one batch. Wintergreen is my personal favorite. It will give you that "tingle". I also add Vitamin E, Aloe and Tee Trea oil to my balms. Tee Trea oil is suspose to be good in preventing cold sores and, it does. Does anyone know how to add "sunscreen" to their lip balms?