SEP

I'm on my way to Wally World. The kitchen department, right?

Thank you Fredron. I'll check them out.

I'm interested in the thermometer too. I have been using the same ones I used in the Presto pots, just standing there holding it in the wax to check the temp. I just don't trust the digital one that is with the Turk & Surf. I don't worry so much about it getting too cool other than my fo might not incorporate well. I do worry about it getting too hot though. SEP

Thanks for the heads-up Sharon. I posted last week that I had just bought one, and after using Presto Pots for many years the thing looked huge. Well, the first day I used it, I melted some wax to cover the element, as suggested, and heard a strange plopping sound at floor level. Looked down, and saw wax coming out of the spout. Being the scatterbrain I can be at times, I had forgotten to check/close the drain valve and wax was pouring out on my floor and splashing my foot. Luckily I had on Crocs and all I had to do was wash them good. I have used this wonderful invention everyday now for about a week, and I love it, especially since I learned to check the valve before I fire it up in the mornings. I do have a question though. It seems like after it first heats up, to the set temp, that it doesn't hold the temp setting very well. The wax temp has dropped as low as 155*, and I haven't changed the setting. I have the stainless digital one with temp and time settings, and wonder if even after reading the directions I'm doing something wrong. Any suggestions appreciated. I will conquer this thing if it kills me. SEP

Romasoy, I got mine from Bed, Bath and Beyond online. I did it online because my local store didn't have any. It was on clearance for $99.95, but there wasn't any 20% listed anywhere, so I just emailed them that I had the coupon (from the Sunday paper) and they emailed back and said to take my packing slip into the store and they would refund the 20% to me. I haven't seen them cheaper anywhere. If you want one, you might want to jump on it, because they are a clearance item. Sandi

I got so sick of having to stop, fill up the Presto, wait on it to melt, and then go again, that I decided this was the next reasonable step. I got it for $79.00 with my 20% off, so it was a good deal. Now I'll go pour since all of have helped me.

Because you all loved yours and kept talking about them I just bought a Turk & Surf, and now I need some help. Because I read everything I could find, I know I need to cover the element with melted wax before I turn it on, and I know I need to poke relief holes. Here is where the problem/question comes in. What do you all use to poke relief holes that won't hurt the element, or don't you go that deep? And here comes another question, Do you have a problem poking all the way through soy if you have let's say one half a melter full and it's not even warm yet? I know I probably sound like an idiot, but this dang thing is sooo big (been using Presto pots for years) that I'm about half afraid to turn it on. I need to pour 30-26 oz apothecaries tomorrow, so please have mercy on me and give me some advise. All help is appreciated! Sandi

ChrisR, thank you so much for answering me. I did try it, and it worked just fine as far as getting them out of the molds. All I had to do was roll them in my hands, putting a little pressure on them and they came right out. The wick pins though were not that simple. I had to wrestle them out, even though I used mold release. I am really impressed with how beautifully the beeswax burns just by itself. The flame seems so steady, and a really clean burn.

I just went ahead and poured some votives in the polycarb votive cups. Thanks anyway.

I have about 8 pounds of natural colored beeswax, and was wondering if I can make votives in the polycarbonate molds? I am wondering if they will come out of the molds after they set. Any help would be greatly appreciated, because I have only used beeswax as an additive, and know less than nothing about using it straight. Sandi

The double boiler method works good, but one (maybe two) words of advise. I learned the hard way to wipe the jars off after I take them out of the water, and before I pour the wax into a pour pot (if you're going to try to reuse it). If you get water in the wax it will start to pop when you heat it up. Also, wear gloves or use something to protect your hands. The jars do get very hot.

I use the Dixie cups from Sam's, and throw them away too.

Aztec has those in 9 oz. Here's a link: http://www.buywax.com/group.asp?grp=46&pgNUM=2

before now. I would have told you to try one with a different color. I had the same thing happen to me with a Salmon dye chip, and almost went nuts trying to figure out what was wrong. It seems some of the chips have a really nasty habit of clogging wicks. I'm sorry I didn't see this sooner, and didn't help faster. SEP

I'm glad you like it. It is full of good info that I hope makes it easier on you.

Here you go. Try here: http://www.candleandsoapstuff.com/Suppliers_by_State.html HTH Sandi

Unfortunately, all they have to offer on the Premier wicks is a suggested use/size jar chart. They said that they haven't had these long enough to be able to do a burn rate chart. Seems like they would have tested before, but who knows. I have a bunch of the Premier here to test, but just haven't had the time. I'm sorry I can't be of more help.

I know Aztec ( in Knoxville Tennessee) carries it, but for someone closer to you I don't have a clue. Wish I could be of more help.

and they should last a long time. In Germany they have been making beeswax ornaments for a long time, even antique Santa Clauses that have been around for years. You and HenryK have made me want to try my hand if I can find some molds I like. Sandi

Yes, much easier. If you are just starting, try a jj with a 51 cotton or the equivalent.

I personally have never gotten a full MP in apothecary jars, using soy wax with a melt point of 125*, unless I double wicked it. I have never even bought a commercial apothecary jar candle, that had only one wick, that ever got a full melt pool. Just play around with it, and you'll get to the point you love your candles. It will all come together for you.

If it is a standard 10 oz apothecary, like what TVG sells, then it is 4" diameter. It will need to be double wicked to get the best throw and melt pool. Depending on the melt point of your soy, and the fragrance you are using, you could start with two 51 cotton or two HTP 104. You might have to go up if the oil is a heavy one.

I think the red color explains it. I have always had wicking issues with a really deep red color in soy. I got so sick of the wicking issues caused by dye, I just quit using dye altogether. I now use frosted jars and leave the little babies white. Sandi

Dana, I don't know what 1 TBLS computes with in ounces, but I know you will be able to get it to work. Just start with using percentages. Anywhere from 3%-5%. I used 3% in mine and they burned fine in the square Mason with a 60 cotton with in most scents, but some did need a 62 cotton. My main problem was just sheer ugliness, but that was my fault. I wasn't using the right pour temp. Thanks again HenryK and Vicky. Sandi

Dana, Even with the ugly BW/Soy combo I did, I never had a bad wicking problem. The throw on the ones I made with 3% BW was great, and got better the longer they cured. What percentage BW and which soy wax have you tried? Sandi