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jackie

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Everything posted by jackie

  1. I know the pour pots are not designed for direct heat like a stove but can they handle being on a griddle just to keep warm for a short period of time (like 10 mins or so)? If so any idea of a safe temp? I melt wax in Presto Pots (water bath way too slow). I'm referring to basic pour pot that most candle supply stores sell.
  2. Thought I'd post my first try. Not very good but maybe it'll make someone else feel better about their first attempt. I'm going to melt and reuse the wax so I just used blue/white. It's fun to do.
  3. I'm low on mold sealer and it's not worth the s/h for one item. I was thinking of trying metal tape, I think it said it could handle 150 degrees but I usually pour at 170 to 175 degrees--anyone know if it handle that? I made the mistake of trying duct tape. I've thought about plumbers putty too but again wasn't sure about the heat factor. If so are they easier/harder to work with than the mold sealer?
  4. What's the best way to clean a candle mold if it's too narrow to get your hand all the way down to even wipe it out? I have a star mold and I put it in a warm oven to melt any wax but I can't even wipe it out cause my hand won't go all the way down and it just doesn't look clean to me. I thought about a pot of boiling water but was concerned if that would mess the pot up for future cooking use. I'm sure there's a simple method and I'm just overlooking.
  5. Thanks. That's what I needed to know. Candlechem has the star mold I'm ordering so I figured I'd get some colors from them too--I just emailed them--I can't find a true basic yellow in their pigments--it says "sunset yellow" which I figure is orangish yellow. I just try to get the primary colors and black and blend my own colors (atleast that's what I do with the liquid dye, we'll see how well it works witht he pigment chunks).
  6. Are dye flakes really resistant to bleeding and fading (the descr says so but descriptions often exaggerate IMHO)? They seem much more economical than the pigment chunks (based on the recommended usage amounts) and I have a gram scale (down to .01 grams) for measuring. Was thinking maybe I could use that for cut/carve but don't want to waste the money if it's going to bleed. But everything I've read says to use pigment. I've also looked at Titanium Dioxide which seemed reasonably priced for white but getting the primary colors was quite a bit more expensive (it jumped from like $6.99 for 4oz white to $24 for red, $18 for yellow).
  7. Trying to avoid disaster here--should a 24 ply flat wick (or #1 braided) be strong enough to hold a 3"x6" candle after dipping or do I need to go up in size? Wick breaking over hot wax would not be good but I'd like to stay as close to the right size as I can. Candlechem has the 3"x6.5" star mold but they're tin (my reg molds are aluminum)--anything I should know about using tin? Peak has small metal star molds which would be great starting out since they don't use alot of wax but I figured I'd prob get more use overall out of the larger size and they're all about the same price. I have juice cans I can use as vats.
  8. Thanks so much for the replies. This is strictly a hobby for me so I want some fun. My goal is to create my own little "works of art" collection. Is candlefun the best place to get good carving tools? I see that as my next purchase. I'll start with a kitchen knife but I'll want atleasst one more tool soon. We have no art/craft stores here so I have to order everything (this is a rural area). I get my regular supplies from Peak's but I didn't see any carving tools there. I have a Presto pot but that's what I'll use to melt the wax to fill/refill the vats then add my color when I fill the vats so I may try my griddle (I have 2 old ones) and see how hot it gets underneath. Thanks again.
  9. I really want to try cut and curl without investing too much till I see if I have any talent at all for it. I have 4625 wax already that I use for pillars but would that just be wasting it to try to use for this? I've read you need either 1343 or 4611. I also have liquid dye, would that work or bleed too much? I figure I can use coffee cans for dip vats. I was wondering if an electric griddle would work to keep the wax hot (in a double boiler setting). ? I was thinking about doing this in the garage where it's warm this time of year so they won't cool too fast after dipping. But was trying to decide the cheapest way to keep the dipping wax hot enough. I saw a book on Cut and Carve by Brooks but it's about $23 incl s/h used (for a 96pg book--seems high) -- I'd buy it if it has in depth information/tips. Anyone have this book? Sorry to put so many questions out. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have searched this site for ideas but still seem to have lots of questions.
  10. Thanks for the ideas. I have a cheap small pot (that I used as a dbl boiler top pot to melt wax when I tried making cheese). That should work fine. I have an old coffeemaker too (I never throw anything away anymore).
  11. Thanks for the kind words and advice. Like preheating the glass--why didn't I think of that. I love the scent. My basement's never smelt better. I haven't seen candle warmers around here but I do have an old electric griddle. I was thinking maybe I could sit the glass on that but I'm not sure what temperature to put the griddle on (don't want to break the glass even though it's sturdy stuff-- I remember dropping a similar on on my ceramic kitchen tile and it did not even crack).
  12. It's not a work of art like you guys do but everybody gotta start somewhere. I poured the second layer a little too early, you can see a little color bleed where they meet. I used 4625 and Cool Citrus Basil. In a day or two I'll see if it burns. Question: I was in my unfinished basement where the temp is 60 degrees and the wax cooled off real fast--by the time I got my color right I had to reheat. I'm using a Presto Pot to heat and 4 cup glass meas cups as pour pots. I heated the Presto at 200 degrees--is it still safe to go to 250 (presto and candle)?
  13. Great buy. Our store still had $24.86 but were all sold out. I don't see them on Walmart online anymore so I was afraid they were discontinuing to sell them. I sure hope not.
  14. I hope it's okay to ask this type of question. I'm getting ready to place my first order. I wanted to take adv of CS frag oil sample sale so I'll be ordering some things from them and some from Peaks. My quesion is on the liquid dyes--CS says 1oz will do approx 40pds wax at med shade while Peak says 1oz will do 125 pds at med shade. Is there that much difference in the concentration or are they about the same?
  15. I'm getting together a list for my first order from Peak. First is there any reason you can't take the primed/tabbed ones, remove the tab and insert before pouring like you would the flat braid wick? If so which is easier for a newbie? The primed/tabbed cotton core has a sample pack. I guess for the flat braid you order two different sizes? I'll be ordering the 4625 wax and 3"x3.5" alum pillar mold. I'll prob also order the palm feather wax and RRD wick sample pack and wick pin. I've learned you get more bang for your shipping dollar with fewer/larger orders (as long as you don't orders stuff you won't use). I'm also debating how many molds to order to get started and was wondering what most people do.
  16. sorry I should have mentioned. I'm just a newbie wanting to try palm wax. Trying to decide what I should or should not add to it so I know what to order.
  17. I'm assuming Vybar would not be good to add to feather or starburst Palm--is that correct?
  18. I just joined this forum and found this thread searching for book recommendations and I'm already confused--I didn't even know there were diff waxes used. My current hobby is winemaking (very addictive hobby) and my husband saw a show on TV about candlemaking and thought I might be interested (I didn't see it but he was saying they were adding lots of diff colors and even carving them--I don't consider myself artistic at all though). I like to do my homework first (reading) then go to forums with questions. My dialup internet connection is so slow anything online takes me forever and broadband isn't available here. We're way out in the country in a rural area and there's no specialty retailers/craft shops here either so I order everything over the internet. I went to Amazon first and found lots of candlemaking books but I wasted money on a few winemaking books till I found a couple of very good ones so I was hoping to avoid that pitfall here. I noted the two books suggested. Thanks for letting me rant.
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