RMullen99

HI ...Ive been googling stearic acid and found a few formulas for container candles that have anywhere from 30 to 50% stearic in them. I know I read a post about an all stearic candle here on this board. What benefit does that much stearic bring to a candle?

JBN carries sizes 8-22. I use Naturewax C3 and the 22 worked well for the slightly tapered side container I used. I use a CDN 14 for my 3" containers, so as you can see, other kinds of soy wax, container styles, FOs, dyes, etc. may cause YOUR candles to have different requirements, so you'd need to 'speriment. Some take a smaller size; some take a larger size.

I like the CDNs because of the treatment applied to them to help with oxidative effects of acids. They seem to burn more efficiently and clog less than CDs although I have no science with which to back up that statement - just my impression... Stands to reason that they might work mo' better for single wicking a larger container if that treatment stuff is true... Anyway - worked well for me & mine.

JBN offers a sampler (5 each of 8-22) of their CDNs and Antonia kindly provided the links to Wickit & Wicks Unlimited from whom you might be able to obtain sizes (other than 8-22) to test. They are now called Stabilo KSTs - the name changed but hardly anyone actually calls them Stabilos or KSTs... manufactured by Heinz-Verhaegh.

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!

The CDN and CD are the same but with the CDNs they have a special coating that helps burn veggie waxes better. Stella will be able to give you the technical terms, she know a lot about the CDNs and has help me a bunch.

But I just wanted to say I never had any luck single wicking a 4 jar, and I also hated double wicking so I decided to stop pulling my hair out and changed jars. So if those wicks dont work for you either and your like me HATE double wicking I would say which jars.

Good luck and sorry if I wasnt any help.

Also check out these site for lot of great info on wicks and they might be able to send you some free samples of wicks

www.wickit.net

www.wicksunlimited.com

THANKS .....I am stuck with 10 cases of 4" diameter jars.....so I HOPE IT WORKS!

Wouldn't the light emitted depend upon the WICK used and the FOs, etc. more than just the beeswax? The "same light spectrum as the sun" WOULD encompass nearly any wax... Methinks this is marketing hype without scientific evidence to back up the claim.

It would also burn YOUR EYEBALLS as you watched your candle burn!!!

Try using a CDN 18-22 for a 4" container.

Hi Stella, where can I get a cdn wick......is that the same as the csn wicks from candlescience? Thanks

Sorry.....edited.....I have cd wicks are they the same? WHat is different if anyhing...THANKS.

Hi....I know...no one like Yankee..LOL I was talking to a supplier about some formulas for containers. I am having a hard time getting a 4" diameter jar single wicked....and I hate double wicks....so he says to me that he believes...but doesnt know for sure, that Yankee has a parasoy blend that makes their candles smoke less and burn better side to side. I am assuming thats wrong because they mottle....but thought I would see what everyones thoughts are....can that be possible??

HI...Has anyone ever used this company for wax?

Thanks

Hi,

I pm'd you with a phone #.

Hi Flex, Any chance you still have that number?

Thanks!

Okay so you put a bunch of wax in this cooker and melt it. Do you then pour out melted wax into a pitcher and add FO and color? What I'm wondering is how do you know how much is in your pitcher? When I make some candles I decide how many jars I'm going to fill then I melt that amount of wax, then pour into a pitcher add my ingredients and pour into the jars. Example if I'm pouring 4, 16oz jars I will melt 4 lbs of wax. Is this like the slow way of doing it? This might seem like a dumb question but I have been wondering this for sometime now.

Hi Coffebean, NO question is a stupid question! Fill your melter with as much wax as you can melt....once it is all melted down, take your pour pot and fill it to however many candles you need....put the dye in stir, add the FO and stir...once at your pour temp, than pour into your jars. When your done, just turn off your melter and leave the wax in it.....this way when you need to make another batch, all you have to do is just turn it on. Now if you mix additives and make your own blend, than you will need to make sure you use an entire batch before adding more wax to the melter.....Hope that made sense.

This melter almost sent my my house up in flames twice. I exchanged the 1st one thinking it was a fluke, but then it happened again. That was just my experience though...

Jenn

THANK YOU....I am defintily going to pass on this one! I am going out tonight to get my Turk and Surf...Thanks for everyones help!

I would take my money and go buy a couple Turk N Surf Turkey fryers. I just bought my second one last night. It was $99 at Academy Sports. They heat up fast and the wax is read to go in about an hour. They hold over 40lbs of wax.

Tonight in 2 1/2 hours I poured 350 Jelly Jars and a couple dozen 18oz Mercantile candles. I had to stop pouring because I ran out of space. For the money I think this is a much better way to go. I should have made this investment a year or so ago. I am cranking out candles like a wild woman!

Do a search on this board .. they have been discussed often.

HTH,

Chele

Hi....You sound really busy! How do you get the wax out of it?

I do use JS 50/50 wax, both the container and the votive/pillar wax and love them both. Very easy to work with, great results. I use 6% FO mostly, sometimes up to 9% depending on the FO. I use zinc wicks.

Hi ....What containers do you use? Did you have any luck single wicking? THANKS!

Sorry just bumping it up.....Anyone out there use these?

Do you mean the J223?

The J223 shrinks a bit and can cause a slight well in the center of the candle particularly if its a larger candles like a 16 oz. In 8 oz you won't see it that much. Some do repours but I just use a heat gun to the tops to level out.

The J50 was designed to be a one pour container wax and won't shrink down the center around the wick creating a well like the J223.

I find the scent throw to be comparable in both waxes however the J223 is reportedly the top scent thrower according to the manufacturer.

J50 is notorious for leaving those dreaded wet spots. I mix with soy and no more wet spots.

I blend 1 oz FO with my wax. I believe thats about 7-8%. Someone correct me if thats wrong.

Out of all the wicks I have tried in the J waxes I keep coming back to the zincs. For me they just burn the best. The best flame, melt pool, cool jar to the touch, slower burning, and better scent throw. The downside to a zinc is the huge shrooms.

Hi...Thanks for the help.....I was trying to get info on the Just Scents wax they carry. One is JS 123 and the other is JSB 50/50 parrafin soy blend. I just got a sample and was hoping to hear from others who have or do use these waxes. Thanks again!

Hi Everyone.....I was curious how many people have or do use these waxes. I just poured 2 candles last night...one of each.

They look really good....both waxes seem easy to work with.

I have two questions for you:

1) What percent of FO can you/do you use in them?

2) What wicks have you had success with in them?

I have Cotton, LX, HTP, CD's and the Wicks Unlimited Brand.

Thanks in advance for your opinions!

Hi Everyone, I just purchased my first order from Just Scents. I normally use Peak, BCN, and Candlewic. LET ME TELL YOU,

JUST SCENTS ROCKS! I purchased about 48 samples Becky threw in a bunch more and let me try her wax samples. She is awesome, friendly and eager to talk and answer any questions you have. I have not used the scents in wax yet but OOB they smell stronger than alot of the other scents I have used and seem to have a more more complex scent...example: there seems to be a few layers to the scents...hope that makes sense. Anyway, Thanks Becky for all of your help and if you havent tried Just Scents, I think you should! !

The properties of petrolatum can vary. There are different kinds just like there are different kinds of paraffin, so just be prepared for the possibility that the results might not be exactly the same as with the petrolatum you get from your supplier. I haven't tried using vaseline but I think it should at least give you some idea of how petrolatum works in a blend.

Hi Top.....YEAH I was afraid of that! Hope its close though...LOL

Thanks for your help.

Hi I am in a bind......I ordered petro....dont want to use crisco. But it wont get to me for a day or two. Is the drug store Vaseline....No scent....100% White Petrolatum the same as the stuff we use? Thanks...I am pretty sure it is as long as it doesnt have scent but I need just a little for today.....cant wait...THANKS!

Ok....just checked with a supplier......they said it was the same as long as it is not scented. Hope their right!

Hi I am in a bind......I ordered petro....dont want to use crisco. But it wont get to me for a day or two. Is the drug store Vaseline....No scent....100% White Petrolatum the same as the stuff we use? Thanks...I am pretty sure it is as long as it doesnt have scent but I need just a little for today.....cant wait...THANKS!

Have fun.

I just want to clarify, because re-reading what I wrote it didn't seem clear.

If you're trying to make mottled container candles, the three additives you could potentially use are stearic acid, Vybar 343 and Polyboost 150 (which I presume is Mottle Max). You would use a low melt point plain paraffin that mottles well and not so much additive that it kills the effect.

If you're not trying to make a mottled container, then you probably don't need to experiment with the Vybar 343 or Mottle Max, but you can use pretty much anything else.

I was torn....I really like the look of the mottle but looking for an 8% FO Load....was trying to see if I could create it.....if not, I am ok with it if it doesnt mottle. I have tried alot of the one pours, but I think there just has to be something better out there...I am probably just crazy, but all of them seem to have some issues......thats why I was hoping to start with a straight parrafin....add my own additives and see what happens. Do you have any suggestions on a formula??? THANKS

Vybar 343 comes in a sticky slab that practically melts at body temperature. If you have granules it's probably Polyboost 150 or something similar. Bitter Creek has a paranoid habit of hiding the identity of what they're selling. Like so-called "aroma beads" that are actually a candle additive that's been used for decades.

Both of those additives are used in mottled plain-paraffin candles, as is stearic. Which additive you choose is a matter of experimentation. For testing purposes it's best to start simple, which is why I recommended using just the mottle max. You can also test with just stearic and with a combination of both, for the sake of comparison. And then of course there's the matter of testing different amounts.

Vybar can be used in a one-pour formulation and there are probably some out there that contain it, but none of the major brands.

It takes a lot of time and money to develop a good one-pour blend, so those who've done it consider it pretty much a trade secret. Generally it's easier to use something that's already on the market. Developing one that's tailored to your application has potential advantages, but all the testing and experimentation can be a long road.

THANKS TOP......I am going to have like 50 candles burning in the house to see which additive does what...LOL....gonna have to open the windows and warn the neighbors not to call the Fire Department!

Hi there.

I haven't bought any mottle max to see what it might be. Does it look like small hard off-white pellets or granules? If so, it might be Polyboost 150.

The amount you used would probably be too much. If I were you I'd start with 1% and no stearic and then experiment from there. That doesn't mean you can't burn the one you made, but it's unlikely to be the best formulation.

Regarding your question about Vybar in container blends, the popular ones that most people use don't contain Vybar or any other synthetic additive.

HI Top.....Yes its small white pellets. I am going to make another with just a 1% load to see how that works. I was curious and was hoping you could educate me......what other additives to they add to make the one pours if its not the one we buy from the suppliers? Do you have a list and what they do? I know that maybe alot to ask but I dont know where else to go to get the answer...LOL.....THANKS!!!!!!! Also, is the stearic and mottlemax doing the same thing? Is that why you want me to use one or the other? I spoke to Bill at Candlewic the other day and he thinks the Mottlemax is Vybar 343.....not sure if thats right or not but wanted to let you know.

Sorry, I know the feeling. I've squandered more than my share of time and materials. If you're dedicated enough to get good at this, it's just going to happen.

Hi Top.....I was making a container candle with straight parrafin, 16oz......I used 1oz of mottle max......some stearic ....I am just playing with the straight parrafin.....I didnt burn it yet.....is it dangerous with that amount of mottle max? Can I burn it?Wouldnt a blend have a larger amount of vybar in it than just 1%? Thanks for the help.

Yes...I am trying to sindle wick. I know the J50 is going to be really tough to do....probably not possible. I really dont want to double wick....thats why I was asking to see if anyone had anysuggestion for a new wax. I was also curious if I was to add any additives to the J50 would it work better in this size jars? I know it already has additives in it, but thought i would ask. Thanks for the help.....I was trying to stay away fromn zinc wicks,,,,,,but may have to try them.