RMullen99

Hey Thansk everyone....I did find them. They are at Early American Candle Supply. They are 12 1/2oz 3 1/2" T by 4" wide.....they dont have the lids though on their website. Anyone know where I can get just the flat silver lids to fit this size jar?

closest would probably be the 18 oz madison with the silver lid, I know that YES supply carries them.

http://www.yessupplyco.com/products/studio_capri_madison_jars.htm

I think Early American Candles has them too.....but I dont see lids....looks like they have a flat glass lid for them but I am looking for the silver ones.

Hi I am looking to buy a jar and was hoping someone could help me. I am looking at the same jar that B&BW uses. Its the 14oz cylinder or bowl with the silver lid. I believe its 4' wide by 3"high. Is there a supplier out there that has the jars and lids? TIA

Ive searched here and the net.... We all say zincs burn cool, but WHY? Any chemists or super smart people out there that would know the answer? Just been bugging me lol

Ok I am going to take a stab here....I believe this was answered before. With the cotton core wicks they have a cotton core which is more flamable than a zinc core so it tends to burn faster/hotter. The zinc has cotton wrappings but the core is still zinc which is harder to burn than the cotton counter part. Hopefully this is right....that is what I believe I read somewhere else.

Early American Candles is HUGE!

I am pretty sure they have the contract to make all the Glade Candles. They are a really huge company and most of their Business is contract work. They make Candles for multiple companies following that Companies recipe. I have spoken to their owner before, his name slips my mind though. He is a really nice guy. HTH

Hi Everyone.....I have a question about ROC on wicks.

I have a parrafin Blend wax that I am mixing myself in a 3" Status Jar.

Here are the wicks I have tried so far:

LX 18 ROC 0.20 Flame Height 1.5 weak hot throw.

So would it be accurate to say that I need to try and find a wick that has a ROC around .22 that may have a lager melt pool than a 44-28-18c? Since the ROC of .23 on the 44-32-18c had very little hot throw is that because it was too hot and burned the FO off? And would the LX 18 with the ROC at .20 be not hot enough to produce a Hot Throw that was strong?

Hope fully that made scents..LOL thanks!

There are a couple of manufacturers that our suppliers get theirs from. This was an interesting discussion: (note post #4)

http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85429&highlight=tension

I imagine that the suppliers you mentioned just got them from different manufaturers or maybe used different wick wax.

HTH

That was a good thread.....I guess the next question is who is selling what wicks? Candlewic makes thier own....who sells the other wicks?

Hi Everyone....I was just curious where everyone gets their wicks from.

I dont think all wicks are created equally. I get mone from Candlewic. I ordered some ecos from CandleScience and they look completely different than Candlewics so I thought I would ask where everyone gets their wicks from and also...Why did you settle for that company? Was becuase they were close to where you live or did you just really like how they perform compared to other companies? After seeing the difference between CandleScience and Candlewic, I am curious now about ordering other wicks to see how they work. TIA

We use the IGI 2281, but don't want the mottled look. We use Additives in our wax, and get creamy smooth looking candles. We use 1 oz per lb w/o problems. I can't help ya if you are looking for the mottled look. But doing layers with this wax is not really that hard to do.

We heat our wax till melted well, (we don't do temps anymore..sorry ), then add Additives, fragrance and color. For Layers, for this, we would do a lb of each. HTH

Steph in tx

Steph....pm'ed you.

No, but they aren't very far from me, so if you find anything out please post. I could use some more candelilla wax, tho not 55#! Plus I'm not sure which one!

They told me they have a few soy and soy parrafin blends. As well as a one pour container wax....however....if yo buy a case its $165.00 a case.....the break point is reached on large volume orders only. What do you use the candelilla wax for....dont thin i ever used it before

I have been using the 3022 (70/30 soy) for several years now. I currently use 16 and 8 oz salsa jars and some specialty containers with cd wicking. My favorite quality of this wax is that it normally doesn't require cure time. It adheres extremely well to the container walls and is easy to wick in most containers. I tried other blends but came back to this wax due to its reliability in quality and overall appearance. At this point in time, all waxes are about the same in price but even still it is worth the extra to be able to depend of your wax. HTH.

Steve

OK I just recieved my waxes! :yay:I poured 3078, 3022 and 3020 in 12oz status jars. 8% fo load of Balsam and Cedar from NG and two drops of dye....nothing else....cant wait to burn these...I hope these waxes workout for me.

Hi Just bumping ths thread...I know its old.....has anyone ever used this wax company or do you know anything about them?

Thanks

Status jars are not listed as tumblers. May I recommend the Libbey Universal Tumbler 8.5 ? This used to be known as the Crisa jar and was mfg in Mexico until bought out by Libbey; it is a very classy and easily wicked container. IMHO.

Steve

Hey Steve....thanks for the info.....I just figured the status was just like a tumbler.....straight sides and all.. Do you use a lid on the tumblers? If so were do you get them? TIA

See, I'm not used to these numbers like 10 percent vybar. I use some vybar from time to time but about 8 globs (1/4 tspn) is fine for a half pound. There is a recommended max for vybar and I'm pretty sure it isn't anywhere near 10 percent.

Hi Eric.....that was showing under 10% of Micro not vybar:cheesy2:

Tumblers are pretty straight foward. The best are going to be straight sided and about the same diameter from top to bottom. You should be able to get the same ht as with any other container, it's just a matter of wicking. HTH

Steve

Lol thats what I thought too....but it isnt happening for me.....I tried moving the J50 to this tumbler......in a Mason jar it throws awesome.....but in the status jar I have a weak HT.....tried all different wicks and no good....the only difference is the mason is 2.75 inches I believe and the tumbler is 3 inches. I tried Joy Wax WOW wax, CBL125, CBL130, 6006, 4627and 4630 nothing seems to throw strong for me in a status jar. I use 1 oz FO per pound Honestly, I hate JJ and Mason jars....i am trying to get a more sophisticated looking jar(single wick) to use in my line. I thought about uping the amount of fo but I dont want to waste anymoney.......I just added a little crisco to the waxes and it seemed to hlp a little but not as strong as the J50 and the mason jar....I must be nuts or just over critical of my porduct since everyone else seems to get good throw from the status jars.

Hi Everyone

I am anxiously awaiting my Clarus 3078, 3020 and 3022 samples. Does anyone use these waxes? If so what are your thoughts and what size containers are using? I am looking to use one or two of these waxes in status jars....3" wide.

For J50 users have you tried the 3078 and if so how was it compared to J50? I think the J50 changed to mush since when IGI took it over and I have not been happy with it since.

Thanks!

I'd love to be of more help, but an oleochemist I am not. For example: the MSDS for the container wax I use (NatureWax C3) states that it is:

Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides

That means nothing to me...

A "crystal modifier" is something used to modify or stabilize the polymorphic crystal phases of veggie wax.

Below is a link to a table of the fatty acid composition of many common oils (scroll down):

http://www.scientificpsychic.com/fitness/fattyacids1.html

Perhaps this link will help explain some terms to you:

http://lipidlibrary.aocs.org/lipids.html

This site discusses lipids and fatty acids of different oils:

http://www.essentialoils.co.za/lipids.htm

Soapers know a LOT about lipids and fatty acids because it's intrinsic to soapmaking, saponification, etc. There may be discussion you could search for in the soapmaking forums. HTH

THANK YOU I AM GOING TO CHECK THESE SITES OUT:smiley2:

Hey there everyone...it's been a while!

I have been doing J223/464 in apothecary jars, double wicked with zinc. I get a very nice throw from them...I have been very pleased. But I just love the look of tumblers and have played on and off with them, but I would like to get serious about it and start using them. So, my question is, is it unrealistic to think that I will get a throw out of a tumbler that is comparable to my apothecary jars double-wicked?

And for those that use zinc wicks in a tumbler (3"w) what od you use? 51z? 44 (32 or 24)?

Thanks!

Jenn

Just bumping this thread.....I am struggling as well getting a good scent throw from a tumbler...its ok...rather on the weak side but nothing like a jar with a narrower neck.

If J50 has any pet it's not much...micro is the real variable here.

Micro is nothing like paraffin. Paraffin - regardless of melt point or refiner - will just about have the same Vis and Pen number (hardness)...there are exceptions of course.

Micro can melt as low as 130F or as high as 200F. It can be soft and sticky or hard as a table top. The viscosity can vary quite a bit as well. So, without knowing what micro is used in the available candle blends - it becomes a guessing game when adding other materials. J50 obviously uses a softer micro that also has a slight tack.

Micro will bind fragrance - which is a good thing, but it can also be slow to release it. Mineral Oil will soften a wax blend, thin the visc, but also reduce the amount of FO the blend can hold.

Pet is a double edged sword - we do offer one blend that does not have any for just such reasons. For performance reasons I would look to cut your amount in half to around 15% - however I know it does benefit appearance/adhesion.

Polyboost (our product)/Vybar is a helpful tuning aid - but as you have found out - there certainly can be too much of a good thing. 2% is normally way too much. I would stay around 0.5% in typical circumstances.

Thanks Brad for all your help.....i have IGI2281, 125 mp from C&S(straight paraffin) and container full(candlewic). My micro is micro 845 from candlewic.......what would be the most amount you would add of micro to the base parrafin assuming 15% will be petro.....I also noticed some of the glass on j50 has a tiny bit of frosting so they may add alittle beeswax or soy to their mix as well...what do you think? What blend do you have with out the petro that you mentioned? Thanks

I would not expect Petrolatum to increase FO holding ability. There is a lot of mineral oil suspended within pet - depending on how much Pet you add - you could be increasing your overall "oil' content by a significant amount.

Another issue you need to watch out for is Viscosity - if too much is used, you could negatively effect wick performance. Micro is the other large component and has a much higher vis than paraffin. Your finished blend could thick enough (high vis) that it would not flow up the wick well.

Hey Brad....if I was looking at say a J50 wax, I dont think this wax has alot of petro....i think it seems to have a "taffy" like blend compared to a comfort blend. Would I assume that they used a higher level of micro and may have diluted it with mineral oil to make it softer? Does that make any sense? I used a basic recipe of container full, 30 % Petro and 2% vybar with 1oz of FO and though it setup nice, the throw was weak. I backed down the vybar and tried again but the throw was still weak. It also had ripples on top which to me looked like to much vybar? I eliminated the vybar but still a weak throw...I can believe I cant make a straight basic paraffin blend that throws ok....what am I doing wrong...any suggestions? Thanks! Sorry my FO was from Peaks so I know it was a good scent. I use 3 inch tumblers. Tried multiple wicks...cd's, cotton core, lx's....TIA

I am assuming you are talking about soy candles?

USA (universal soy additive) is reported to be distilled monoglycerides that help tame the polymorphic wildness of soy wax. As far as "fatty acids," coconut oil has a lot of 'em...

What are you wanting to achieve? What kind of wax?

Hi Stella...Thanks for responding...I have been looking through candle patents and have notcied with some the patents, they seem to use a mixture of fatty acids. When you look at supply stores they just show stearic as the main one. Alot of the patents say the stearic actually performed bad in the vegi blends and to use other fatty acids like these

The preferred fatty acid components of the triglycerides include palmitic acid , oleic acid, arachidic acid and behenic acid. What are these? Also what is a crystal modifier? LOL lots of questions...THANKS

Hi Everyone, Can anyone tell me what are fatty acids that are added to candles? I know searic is but what other ones are out there? Seems like that is the one that is used most....but was curious what else is considered a fatty acid and used too.

TIA:smiley2:

I used petrolatum for adhesion problems when the soy was very brittle due to drought. I didn't notice any change in fo quality. I still have a block of "Stickum" as it was called by the distributor. HTH

Steve

Ok thanks......seems when I use it my HT is weaker.....I thought it would be better due to the larger melt pool the petro would create but I think it was the opposite

Hi Everyone....I had a question about Petro as an additive. I know this helps with adhesion and helps with a larger melt pool but does this weaken the scent throw? Since its basically micro and oil, I am assuming it holds more FO therefor binds it. TIA

The results are in.

Don't forget this survey was not conducted in a scientific manner. The sample is composed of any CT member who chose to respond, sometimes prompted via PM, and respondents were free to rate any wax they pleased.

The survey isn't intended to suggest which container blend is best. Each product is used to good effect by experienced candlemakers and rated highly by some people. The best wax is the wax that meets your needs and expectations as well as the wax you know how to use well.

Each blend is formulated according to a different strategy, which typically involves tradeoffs of one quality for another. Nobody has yet discovered a formula that produces the perfect wax, but I hoped we could uncover a few clues about what aspects of wax performance are optimized by the various approaches taken in these products.

Most of all, I hoped it would just be fun and interesting to see how this comes out!

Hi Top...I sent you a PM...not sure if you would notice it so I posted it here so you can look ...THANKS