LPENDA

Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to share your results! I really appreciate you.:highfive:

Any food scent Plumeria Magnolia Mistletoe Peach Their soy leaf rating system has been accurate for us. Sorry! Missed the glass glow mention. I'm talking 464.

We use special "High Temp" glue w/ a High Temp glue gun and have not had a problem since. Sets up VERY fast. Tried glue dots initially, but when began pouring very hot (as we now do w/ 464), they didn't hold. Just our experience for what it's worth....

Simpler explanation: It bends, but it bends to ALL sides as it moves around the twist configuration.

Yep...that's the theory. Seems to help as long as it's gentle and not over-twisted. We have tried many variations on the theme and found 3-5 twists to be the key. Keep in mind- these are our results and others may vary. Another point, use LOTS of adhesive (we use hi-temp glue) as the torque will cause the wick to loosen if insufficient glue is used. HTH!:rolleyes2

In theory, hyper-twisting a wick would give it even greater circular melt pool mobility. Thus correcting the effect of curling and uneven burning.....WRONG. The wick simply "freezes" into position and the gentle circular burn is foiled into a wad of wick that burns incorrectly. Moral: Gentle twist is the way to go. Hope this saves a few folks a few extra pours.

Instead of taking the time to be demeaning and rude, how about: 1) Just answer the question. or 2) Just move on! Some folks have wayyyyyyyy too much time on their hands. Most on this board generate helpful answers, others seem to create trouble. Bitter is not a good color on anyone. Just my .02. LPENDA

Additional Note: We are pouring very hot and have had no wet spots at all.

Important note: The wick must be DEAD CENTER. Burned one today and there was some hang-up on one side. That's when I noticed the wick was not directly centered. Interesting....means we have the PERFECT wick. Just right. Sigh...sure feels good!

Yep. Candle Science for me too.

After several months of sincere sorrow trying to single wick a variety of soy waxes in a straight sided glass cylinder jar measuring 3.3" in diameter, I have come to the conclusion that Kristi has found the solution. I have been using a CD 20 with 464 and have had very impressive results. There is a full melt pool by the second burn on difficult fragrances and with the first on easier to wick scents. It's actually surprisingly simple. No additives or special treatment. It can be poured very hot or slushy, your choice. My results have both been good. Concerning the wick itself, if it is kept trimmed nicely I don't detect any curl at all and minimum with partial trims. A huge improvement from a HTPs. et al. Addendum: We don't use color at all and add fragrance at about 8%. There is a slight residue left from the wax on the glass, however, it is minimal and of no consequence for our purposes. Similar to what you see in the photographs left by Kristi (http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66750&highlight=464). Mushrooming is there but minimal w/ most scents. Glass does NOT become too hot. Tops smooth if cooled correctly. (Consistent temp.) In conclusion, I humbly bow to my new hero in the candle industry Kristi!:highfive:

Also, a soap dish, that allows the air to circulate and dry the soap in the shower between use, can greatly extend the bar life.

Have a CD Sampler and will try. You have given me hope. Sure appreciate your time and willingness to share. L

Thanks so much for sharing Kristi! You're a doll. I just ordered 50lbs. and am keeping my fingers crossed. Have alot of HTP wicks...any thoughts on how they will perform in this wax? Linda

You have given me HOPE! I'm getting close....but the process is WICKed!! LoL!

FYI: In case anyone else needs the information- Additive is 100% soy based. Thanks, Patti! LP

I did Stella. Still have not heard back from them Thought maybe someone on the board recognized the product and was aware of the product content. I take it you have no idea?

Does anyone know what is in this additive? http://www.craftlobby.com/swf02.html Thanks! LP

Thanks for the input, Stella. My problem is adjusting to the new container. Think I'm finally there! Again thanks to everyone, who took the time to write, for the ideas.

Stella- Actually, I don't disagree. But, I think wax formulation is critical and much harder to calibrate than wick type/size. After awhile, you get a good "feel" for the kind of wick you need depending on container size/type and wax. Also, it's simple to test wicks and much harder to hit the right wax blend. I can appreciate your perspective, but the real issue I'm trying to tweak is wax orientated. I am aware of the other parameters that impact a candle's characteristics. Carrie-I have some C3 but it's about 6 mos. old and I'm afraid it won't be a valid test. Might be dried out too much. Will have to try it again. Thanks so much for your help! I was hoping to find some additional tips on blending. (Minus the consideration of wet spots or frosting). I have found Coconut Oil helps with throw, but because it makes the wax harder, the melt pool is negatively affected.

Thanks, I was shooting for cute! I use HTP (mainly), CD and Eco wicks sized to fit container and wax(s) used. The containers I am trying to use now allow me to not consider frosting and other cosmetic issues. Currently using a custom blend soy (135) and paraffin. Just thought someone might have suggestions as to how to improve. Would prefer using less para. Have tried Crisco, cotton seed oil.

If the absolute only considerations were scent throw and complete melt pool, what would you recommend as a base wax or wax blend? Thanks! LP