ScentsandMore

I use to get my labels from The Candlemakers Store unitl I started making my own. His site is: http://www.thecandlemakersstore.com/category/labels/

Here's a couple sites I have book marked for embeds:

http://www.tropicalbreezecandles.net/

http://www.candlesbathandpotpourri.com/store/

I really like Heartfelt's pumpkin pie.

I have never ordered from Royal Aromatics and would like to take advantage of the Royal Aromatics co-op. Am I correct in that it is better to purchase the premium grade for bath and body? Has anyone tried these FO's in the premium grade in bath & body and if so, how did you like them:

Balancing Blend

Calming Blend

Energy Blend

Relaxing Blend

Sensual Blend

I also plan to make candles with these FO's.

Thank you!

I have a booth with a friend in a mall that is not all crafts but has a little of everything. Booth size is 10 x 10 and cost $120 per month. I share it with a friend so we each pay $60 which is not bad. I will say that after Christmas until close to fall my sales are way down to the point sometimes I just make my part of the rent. Sometimes I think about giving it up but I stay in for the fall/Christmas season and it does get my name out there. Good luck.

I am going to make silky suds and regular bath salts and have narrowed my decision down to either Sonoma or Ceara salts from Salt Works. Has anyone used either of these salts? If so, how do you like them? I called Salt Works and was told that there was not that much difference between the two but wanted to post here to see if anyone has any recommendations. If you have tried both, which do you prefer? I did a search on here but cound't find anything.

I did a google search for sonoma and ceara and found Zenith Supplies has the Ceara about $16.00 cheaper for 55 pounds then Salt Works. Has anyone purchased from Zenith Supplies before, and if so how is the customer service and shipping?

Sorry for all of the questions. Thank you.

This site has them for $2.49 each http://www.mainstreetsupplycompany.com/directory.cfm/13/

Not sure how many you need. This site has them for $2.85 each and when purchasing bulk of 48 they are $2.35. http://www.redhillgeneralstore.com/A62192.htm

Not sure if there is a minimum on either site.

Also, if you have a Garden Ridge close, they did have galvanized pails in different sizes. Good luck.

I thought I had read this on the board. I did a search and could not find my answer.

I am going to make Carmen's silky suds recipe. I always take showers but want to test this myself. How much should I use per bath? Thank you.

Going to order a new scale today from Old Will Knot off of eBay. At first I was going to order the KD-7000 then I got to looking at the postal scales Ultra Ship 35#, 55# and 75#. What I like about it is that you can pull out the part that has the readings, it comes with the AC adaptor. With the KD-7000 you have to pay extra for the AC adaptor and the scale cost more. Does anyone use either the Ultra Ship35#, 55# or 75# for candle or soap making? If so, how well do you like it? Thank you.

I have some whole, buttermilk and honey powders in my freezer and have had them in there since the last co-op (2-3 months). How can you tell if it is still okay to use it in milk baths. Also, if it is that old, and I'm just now using it, will it cut the shelf life down in my milk bath or does the shelf life start once you put the milk powder in the milk bath? Thank you.

Getting ready to purchase a new scale and not sure if I want to purcahse an AC power adapter or rechargeable batteries/charger? What power source do you prefer on your scale?

I have found my answer to this question.

Someone I know added SLSa to already made bath salts and he said after adding the SLSa it seems that the scent is not as strong but it did make the water softer. Will adding SLSa cause the scent not to be as strong? If so, if he purchased some Natratrasorb Bath and added it to the already made bath salts that he added the SLSa to, would that help keep the fragrance stronger? Thanks.

My thought is if you are only making them for yourself, then local craft store may be ok. If your plans are to make them to sale down the road after you test, test and more testing, then I would go with a supplier because it would be cheaper in the long run. My main thought is why test candles from the local craft store supplies if your plans are to sell because if you start buying from a supplier after you have tested the local craft store you will have to do your testing all over from the supplier. I agree with the person who said buy a kit from a supplier. You said there is a supplier 90 minutes from you. I would figure up the cost of gas and wear and tear on your car and compare to the shipping cost from a supplier on-line. Good luck with what ever you decide to do.

Those of you that use SLSA in bath salts, do you mind sharing the percentage of SLSA you use? I have read where one supplier said to start with 1 to 3%, another says 10% and one says up to 50%, however I did read on here that 50% is way too much. Any suggestions on what percentage to start at? Thank you.

Just an FYI. There is also another place that sells pottery about 15 miles from Country Reflections. They are Ohio Candle Company and are located in Piketon, OH. Right now they are working on their website and it is down. They have some pottery/stoneware that I have not seen at other places.

Edited: I put wrong company name.

I purchased some citric acid and SLSA about two months ago and have not had time to use any of it and actually forgot I had it until yesterday. How should this be stored before using and what is the shelf life before using it all? Thank you.

If you have not already ordered crates, here is another site to look at: http://www.candlesandwoodcrafts.com/woodencrates.html

I think you answered your own question when you said scent it to match your candles. I would scent it myself.

I think that sounds high. I have a booth in a shop on a very busy street in our city and pay a flat $120 per month. I think it is 10 x 10. If you don't have to sign a contract for x number of months, try it. You can always pull out. If I decide to pull out I have to give them one months notice.

Not sure how true this is, but I read before on one of the candle message boards to not ask your homeowners insurance because some of them will drop you if they find out that you are making candles at home. Can anyone shed any light on this being true or not?

I have always used soy and am going to pour some testers of APOP which it says is the best of both J50 and J223. I have never used paraffin before. What is the curing time for J50 and J223? Is it similar to soy? Thank you.

Someone the other day told me what size of wick to use for my container and said if it is a heavier oil to go up in size. This got me to thinking. How can you tell if it is considered a heavier oil or is it possible before you pour the oil in the wax? There is my silly question for the day. Thank you.

I have samples of the APOP and 6006 so I sent a question to Alabaster to see which they thought had a stronger scent throw and here is the response I received back from Mike:

APOP will have a stronger scent than the IGI 6006. The IGI 6006 wax is blended with soy, the APOP is not. So, if your customers want a Soy blended candle I would choose the IGI 6006. But, if you are just wanting a strong

scent throw, I would choose the APOP or J-223 (IGI 4636).

Thanks, Mike

I also found an older post on here who said they liked the APOP so I sent her an e-mail to see if she was still using and liking it and here is her response:

Hi, Donna,

Yes, I still use the APOP wax and love it. I tried oh so many different types of container wax, but when I tried the APOP I fell in love with it.

If you like color, you can get a very rich color with this wax. You don't have to settle for just pastels. Most of all, the scent through is fabulous. Even with the lid on the jar the cold through is unbelievable and you can only imagine what it smells like when lit.

I still get a lot of wet spots but I do use a balmoral jar and I think that has something to do with that.

I never read very much about the APOP on the board and have always been amazed that no one but me on the board seemed to use it. It is the best in my opinion.

Good luck and I hope you give it a try.

I have called Alabaster in Alabama a few times to ask questions. Mike and Todd are really nice guys and will answer any questions you may have. Alabaster also has a warehouse in Louisville, KY if that would be closer for shipping cost.

I am hoping that either the APOP or 6006 samples I have will work and will be what I'm looking for.

First show I did I had it set up like A and hardly anyone came in to look. Another vendor told me that if you don't have something at the front line people will walk right on by. They want to be able to walk by and look at something right in front, not have to go into the booth. My next show I changed it and have kept it that way ever since.