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Posts posted by Kaybee23
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I have used HTP wicks in my 415 for years, after trying several different wicks. I just like the way they burn. I have not tried them in parasoy blends, so I can't tell you how well they would do in it.
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I also like Moonlight Sonata, Creamy Vanilla and Fudge Brownie. Excellet throwers in my soy.
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Pretty soap Brat....and very cute daughter!
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The EZ Soy is 415 wax. I have used it for several years now. It is a good throwing wax for me, with a little beeswax added.
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I think it is very pretty....it has character. :smiley2:
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I also have not heard a claim about brighter light. I use about 3-4% beeswax in my 415, and it helps give me smoother tops, and helps a little with the frosting, and I believe it helps the scent throw. To me, it definately benefits the candle to have the beeswax in it.
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I have been using the 415 for several years and mix mine with about 3-4% beeswax and I love the candles I get from it. I had gone through testing several waxes before I found one that worked for me. I hope you have good luck with it and it works well for you.
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Actually most of the candles I make are dark in color, and I don't have any problems them.
I agree about the wetspots, though I don't get them often....embrace them, as sometimes you have to embrace the frosting as well.
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Can't help you with your problem, as I use status jars, but just wanted to say "welcome" to the board.
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Last time I bought olive oil in a large amount, it was from Soapers Choice. Have bought a lot of oils from them....they are good quality oils IMO.
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Wow, I absolutely missed that, thanks!
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I am not sure, but I would be interested if you find out. Didn't see anything like it on Candlewic, unless I am just missing it.
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It would depend on how far it is traveling.....but for 500# of wax, that doesn't sound like a bad price, to me.
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Wow, those are beautiful, love that green and black together.
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LOL! Tootie....I knew someone must have a trick for those. I love my template for my glass jars, just set the jar on the template, and glue the wicks in....not sure I could get them in straight without it.
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I haven't double wicked in a tin before, but in my jars I traced a template of the bottom of the jar on paper. Then I found the exact center of the circle, and spaced the wicks equally across the jar. So I just have to sit my jar on the paper and I know where to put my wicks. I think you would just have to eyeball it with the tins.
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I agree, anything over about 3" really needs to be double wicked, to burn properly.
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Wow, that is just beautiful.
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Normally I give mine several burns before determining a wick size. I have a few FO/wick combinations that I don't get a good burn on until about half way down the jar. The heat buildup in the jar seems to help melt the wax faster. So a wick that may not have looked good at first, sometimes will catch up, halfway through the jar.
The only times I switched wicks was if I was way off base on the one I chose. If that happened, I would melt the candle back down, dump the wax back into the pot, wipe the jar and rewick it, repour the wax and let it set back up and retest. I tried just yanking the wick once, but could not get the new ones to stand upright long enough for a good burn.
There are lots of ways to test, you have to do what works best for you, what you think is going to give you the best results.
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I use 415 with a little beeswax.
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Faves For Candles: Candle Cocoon, Lonestar
Faves For Soap: Oregon Trails, Scent Works
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I would be very careful of pouring a candle in a jar that has already burned a candle before. Jars that have been used before are more prone to breaking from the heat of burning a new candle in it. Some people do it, I personally won't for safety reasons.
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Scent Works and Oregon Trails has the strongest ones for me. I have several Oregon Trails FO's that do well in bath and body.
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I have been using the 415 for a few years, with HTP wicks. I have tested in several jars, but like the jars that are 3" across. Some people seem to be able to single wick these without a problem, but I double wick mine. Most of my FO's wick with 2 HTP83 wicks, but some of my FO's take HTP73 and some take a HTP93. Everyone has their own preference and what works for one, doesn't always work for another. But I find about 3-4 % beeswax helps me get nice smooth tops, with this wax.
hurricanes
in General Candle Making Discussions
Posted
Also the shell is usually a higher melt point wax, which takes a little more heat to melt it than what the small votive puts off.