Bunny

Heres my saved preservative info... HTH Important links to read when choosing a preservative. http://www.todieforsoap.com/preservatives.htm http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/library/preservatives.asp Still working on the cleanliness one.. but for now, wear gloves, bleach your counters, sanatize your equipment, and keep your fingers out of the bowl! (ewwwww.. I'm sure none of you do that though!) Cause after all is said and done, if you choose the correct preservative then mess it up with improper manufacturing practices, why bother in the first place? Optiphen INCI: Phenoxyethanol and Caprylyl Glycol Paraben and formaldehyde-free preservative! Optiphen is a unique liquid preservative formulation which consists of phenoxyethanol and an emollient base. For use in a variety of formulas such as aqueous, anhydrous and emulsion products. Optiphen is a clear liquid preservative that can be easily added directly to the formulation during pre- or post-emulsification, at or below 80°C. (176°F) Optiphen has no pH restrictions in formulating, and is compatible with most ingredients used in the personal care industry. Recommended Use Levels: 0.5 - 1.5% Opthiphen Plus Also a paraben and formaldehyde free preservative that is a mixture of phenoxyethanol, sorbic acid and an emmoliant base that is ideal for slightly acidic products (under 6.0) but also performs well in products with a ph greater that 6. Works against bacteria, yeast, and mold. Can also be use in pre or post emulsification at or below 80°C. (176°F) Recommended in Creams, lotions, and moisturizers, shampoo, and foundations. Get some litmus or ph strips if you want to use this one. These can be purchased cheap at www.thesage.com Recommended Use Levels: .75 – 1.5% Bunny’s Thoughts: If I had customers worried about parabens, dealing with the ph factor would definitely make this one worth my while. LiquaPar Oil LiquaPar is a preservative for sugar scrubs, salt scrubs and other products. LiquaPar Oil can be used in anhydrous mixtures (no water) and simple emulsions. LiquaPar Oil is effective against yeast, mold and gram-positive bacteria. Always have your formulations tested for preservative efficacy before taking them to market. LiquaPar Oil is a mixture of Isopropylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben (and) Butylparaben. For your scrubs and butters that have no water we suggest using LiquaPar Oil at a rate of 1% by weight. LiquaPar Oil can be used with other preservatives as well. Recommended Use Levels: 1 % Liquapar PE LiquaPar PE is a 100% active, clear, stable, liquid blend of isopropyl, isobutyl, and n-butyl esters of para hydroxybenzoic acid with phenoxyethanol. This combination of parabens and phenoxyethanol is effective against Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria, yeast, and mold providing broad spectrum activity for worldwide formulations. All LiquaPar PE components are approved for worldwide use thus allowing sale of the same finished formulation in Japan, Europe, Australia and the United States. For more complex formulations, a dual preservation system of 1.0% LiquaPar PE in combination with 0.2% ethylenediaminetetra-acetic acid salt (EDTA) has proven effective. Stable up to 185°F. For cold blends, add LiquPar PE early in the process to allow adequate mixing. Recommended Use Levels: 1% Liquid Germall Plus A paraben-free preservative for your lotions and creams. INCI: Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate Liquid Germall Plus can be used when you have more water than oil, and when you have more oil than water. Add to finished formulation at cool-down-50C/122F or less. Liquid Germall Plus has no known chemical inactivators and is compatible with virtually all cosmetic ingredients. Happy lotion making! Use Liquid Germall Plus when making emulsions, for both water-heavy or oil-heavy emulsions. Recommended Use Levels: .01-.05% Bunny’s thoughts: Very cheap considering how much you use. No Ph stuff is a plus. Liquapar Optima A broad spectrum, liquid preservative system designed to prevent microbiological contamination in a wide range of personal care products. Applications in aqueous, anhydrous and emulsion type formulas. Stable, non-irritating, non- sensitizing at recommended levels. LPO is an optimized blend of ingredients that distribute within a formula according to their oil or water affinity to provide total antimicrobial coverage of the water phase, oil phase, oil soluble ingredients and emulsion interfaces. Globally approved for harder to preserve formulations at levels up to 1.4%. Can be added pre or post emulsification at or below 80°C. If pH of the water is above pH 8 before neutralization, LPO must be added post emulsification.. For non emulsified products, LPO may be incorporated directly into the formula during manufacturing. Can be added to cold systems or at elevated temperatures at a pH range of 3 - 8. May be required in higher levels in formulas with high levels of non-ionics and proteins as these compounds are known to interfere with parabens. Can be combined with Liquid Germall® Plus or other Germall® brand preservatives in very difficult to preserve formulations like silicone in water emulsions. Every new or modified formula should be challenge tested to ensure adequate preservation. LiquaPar Optima is similar in some ways to the widely known Phenonip product. Appropriate for preserving oil based products like salt scrubs that can have water introduced by the end user. Ingredients: • Phenoxyethanol 66 - 74% • Methylparaben 14 - 16% • Isopropylparaben 5 - 7% • Isobutylparaben 3.5 - 5.5% • Butylparaben 3.5 - 5.5%. LiquaPar Optima is recommended at use levels between 0.5% - 1.0%. Bunny’s Thoughts: Ok, this one was copied from theherbarie, but I don’t get most of it. Sounds way too confusing for this mind. Get some litmus or ph strips if you want to use this one, as besides the ph stuff, it sounds ok.. Germaben II-E The II E variation is for creams and lotions that have more than 25% oil in them. Stops mold, yeast and bacteria. Germaben II-E can be used in problem formulations without the need for additional co-preservatives. It is compatible with almost all cosmetic ingredients, including surfactants and proteins. Germaben II-E can be incorporated into hot or cold processed shampoos, creams and lotions during their manufacture. The preferred method of addition is to add it slowly to the cosmetic formulation with good stirring after emulsification and just prior to the addition of fragrance. Germaben II-E contains: o propylene glycol 60% o diazolidinyl urea 20% o methylparaben 10% o propylparaben 10% Use Germaben II E when making emulsions that have 25% oil or more. Recommended Use Level - 1% Germaben II To help keep your lotions fresh and growth free, you will need a preservative. Use Germaben II at a rate of 1% for all your lotions that have less than 25% oil in them. Germaben II is a complete preservative, no need to add additional preservatives to your mixture. Can be used in shampoos and conditioners. The preferred method of addition is to add it slowly to the cosmetic formulation with good stirring after emulsification and just prior to the addition of fragrance. Germaben II contains: o propylene glycol 56% o diazolidinyl urea 30% o methylparaben 11% o propylparaben 3% Use Germaben II when making emulsions that have 25% oil or less. Suttocide A INCI: Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate Suttocide A is active against gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria, yeast and mold, even at low concentrations. This preservative can also handle a wide range of pH, from 3.5 to 12! Use up to 0.5% of total formulation. Use in room sprays, body sprays, shampoo, conditioner and soap. Suttocide A, when used in conjunction with LiquaPar Oil, is particularly effective in complex formulations. Phenonip Good at all ph levels. Good for yeast, fungi, and bacteria. Deactivated by some PEG compounds. Water should be heated to 140 - 158 degrees F to properly dissolve the preservative. Phenonip can be used at higher heat levels without losing effectiveness and with higher oil concentrations than either germaben and germal plus can. INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben. Recommended Use Level - .5-1.0% Even simpler: If your formula contains water, you can use: Germaben II - less than 25% oil Germaben II-E - more than 25% oil Germall Plus Liquid Germall Plus Phenonip Liquapar PE Liquapar Optima - ph restrictions Optiphen Optiphen Plus - ph restrictions If your formula contains only oils, butters and waxes and does not contain water, you do not need a preservative unless there is a chance water will be introduced by the end user. If your formula contains only oils, butters and waxes and does not contain water but there is a possibility that the consumer could introduce water into the product, you can use: Phenonip Liquapar PE Liquapar Optima - ph restrictions Liquapar Oil Optiphen Optiphen Plus - ph restrictions The end.. For now..

Mmmmmm that sounds delish! Can't wait to hear how those come out!

That's why I line them and use the mini muffin pans... lol The frosted one is probably because it was in the freezer for so long, and condensation formed and caused the citric to react. Sounds like that's your tester! I do stir once in a while while the mixture is cooling down... HTH!

Yes yes yes! Play with your percentages with that ewax, and you'll love it!

Try making in smaller batches honey.. If it's not what you're looking for in soaps, 5 lbs is an awful lot of soap. Can't wait to hear what you come up with!

Best way to judge it is to try it and see honey.. What might look like a funky recipe to me might turn out to be the best bar or soap ever or vice versa..

Ones what? Kinda lost here honey...

Yes, as a matter of fact, that's the way I do them now.. I color with skin safe micas, and use all kinds of different fo's. Just remember, too much of this stuff is NOT a good thing, less than 1 oz, and I prefer 1/2 ounce melts.

I think opening up shop drove me nuts for a long time.. I just wanted to make soap, and I could no longer wake up after having one of those soaping dreams and make soap in the middle of the night! My best bars have been middle of the night sneak into the kitchen batches..lol Then I just learned to stay at the shop til I was exhausted, then go home and go straight to sleep...lol The new place looks fantastic, can't wait to see more pics! WTG!

Absolutely! Lets see.. Add any soft oil to replace it, no palm kernal oil or anything! lol Avacado would be a good one, or just about anything!

I do add UV to my clear, but that's all. No fo, no UA, no vybar. Anything you use will make it harder for the chunks to be seen. I do however super scent my chunks. Cram those chunks in there girl! You can if you wish leave the candle upside down... Making the chunks stick out of the top, and you won't have to worry about leveling! Can't wait to see your next one!

Your wax amount will be different than everyone elses depending on the amount of chunks you put in. I only do clear overpours, and just keep a pouring pot full of clear 1343. I didn't see the pic, but bubbles on the top tells me you didn't pour hot enough. For the best looking chunkies, pour your overpour about 175, and put in a cool water bath for about 2 minutes. HTH!!!!

The sugar was an add on by E... It won't help with thickness, only with bubbles. Now that you have that first scary batch under your belt, experiment!

Why not hire a babysitter for 2 days a week or thereabouts instead? That way you're still in control, and don't have all the legalities of hiring someone. Between that and an accountant, you should be able to breathe again...

Even better.. Go get a can of canned pumpkin, and use about 1/8 cup PPO.. OMG, you'll love it! Might look a little light colored at first, but it'll darken a few shades upon sure. (Maybe 3-4 shades) I added mine to the oils when they were warm, and stickblended the snot out of the oils and pumpkin mix before I added my lye water.. Just another idea to throw in the pot!

Try using the metal tape.. I threw all my screws in the trash after I discovered this! Use the back of a spoon to make sure there are no air bubbles,and take off when slightly warm to get it of easiest. I even do my re-pours with the tape off. http://www.candletech.com/metaltape/

Wow.. I don't even have to use a full oz with Peaks Clean cotton per pound.. Maybe this is just one of the scents you personally can't smell well? I know I have a hard time smelling quite a few of the florals, even though my testers and customers tell me they are super strong cold and hot.. Be careful with those, and please please please don't sell them... :tiptoe:

Yup yup.. That's the super simple recipe.. Now, don't run out and sell soap with that recipe, as you can do a lot better. It's just an "I want to make soap and don't want to waste 20 dollar a pound oils on making my first batch" recipe. Just to get you used to the process... Have fun! (and hiya E!)

While I can't find her directions, from experience, you need to pour about 2-4 degrees warmer... HTH

PM ebcandles.. She wholesales a wonderful soy lotion!

Go to file, save as, then in the dropdown, highlight jpg or jpeg, then save. Viola, you have a pic of it!

You need to round out the scents... 1 manly 2 bakery 2 floral 2 spice 2 seasonal 2 clean 1 extra that's a top seller for you (IMO..lol) Have fun, and breathe!

It's my favorite of the month... Made bath bombs, shampoo, conditioner, lotions, linen sprays... And didn't sell a bit of it! It's all mine!

Whose did you use? Oregon Trails Black Raspberry Vanilla doesn't discolor at all..

WOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! You might be right, the rind may have been from overheating.. But cut that rind off and use the rest! We want a pic!!!!!!!!!!!!