3bees~1flower

regarding straining your herbs....i just read about an idea not too long ago that i think will make me NOT hate infusing so much...instead of cheescloth, try putting your dried herbs into a muslin bag and then setting that into your oil...when the infusion is done, simply take out the bag give it a squeese and your done! you could infuse several herbs ito the same oil this way...when i do it, i will probably use a separate bag for each herb.

hth!

thank you!

i made three experimental candles (3 scents) yesterday and lit one this morning....i did 97% ez soy, 3% beeswax....1.4oz pp fo....using and eco10 wick. either i cut the wick too short or it needs a bigger wick...will i see a need for a bigger wick with using the beeswax or should that not matter? my fo is the same as when i do just 100% ez soy. the flame is barely there....if i'd like to try a bigger wick, how do i change it? :embarasse

thanks for any input....

what would the point/benefit be to adding olive oil to a candle?

why would soy flakes be called hydrogenated soy? the soy (flakes) i use for my candles is called "soy wax"...when i think of hydrogenated soy, i think of something along the lines of crsico, maybe a little firmer...how can these two be the same?

the only thing i make that it discolors is soap...lotion, creams, ect are fine...i have never used it in a shower gel...is this a KOH gel or a surfactant gel? i have used it in my liquid soap and it will turn that darker.

yes...different recipes have a different smell when all done....my most recent...and final recipe as i love it so much...can be covered with FO, but even the natural smell is not bad at all...not like some i have made.

http://www.thesage.com/recipes/recipes.php3?.State=ListRecipes&cat=Lotions

here are a bunch of recipes...the methods of making lotion in these recipes is how i have always done it...lmk if you have any questions!

ETA: i don't use citric acid like a lot of those recipes use...just sub that for another ing or use that amount as water.

i didn't read all the posts so don't know if this has been mentioned...but i have successfully added honey by first mixing it in some lanolin...lanolin acts as an emulsifier so if you blend it with the honey before addinf it to the mix, it will keep it in suspension. you only want to warm the lanolin, not melt is. then stir in the honey....then add it to you melted oils HTH!

ETA: shoulda read all the posts i guess...the post right before mine mentioned lanolin too...<blush>

Man, This was my first attempt but it was as hard as a rock for 3 days. They tell ya to let it losen up. Not my stuff. It took 17 oz of aloe vera to get it like whipped cream. I scented withToberose. hope ya all like it. This is good for shaving or face cream soap.

looks fabulous!! i'm *JUST* getting my first batch loosened up too...took me 14-15oz of water and aloe juice to get mine whip-able too....but, i think we are on our way...can't wait to get it finished. i want to package mine in malibus for a shower cream.

they look great!!! are they emulsified?

you could also try adding 1-2% beeswax. i love it in my creams.

you're welcome....the thread was in the cosmetic section...i think it was titled "btms vs btms-50" or something like that.

yes, they really are quite different. i no longer use ewax...will never go back after having used btms (i use btms-50). btms gives such a nice powdery finish and also adds a conditioning element that ewax does not.

the herbarie sells both if you want to read the difference between them. also...i don't know if i can say this or not, but on the dish there was a discussion about the difference between btms and btms-50...very informative. mods, please let me know if i should edit that out.

why would you want to add baking soda...soap is already alkaline....wouldn't soda make it more so?

how'd it go julia??

i only use my shapmpoo bars now...just made some this morning, in fact! that icky feeling you get from using a shampoo bar is not "soap scum" it is simply your hair shafts "wigging out" from the high pH of soap. that is why it is essential to use an acid rinse after using a shampoo bar. this returns the hair shaft to a much more contented pH. i couldn't hack the vinegar rinse( stinky and difficult to apply) so i now make a conditioner and use citric acid in it rather than vinegar. my hair has never been in better shape! my sister has instructed me that can never evernever ever stop making 'poo bars and conditioner! lol!

high castor makes a very nice bar....i only sf at 1%...i added enough powdered GM after the cook to make it a 100% GM shampoo bar.

it *is* possible to add honey to lip balms. what i do is first warm up some lanolin...then stir the honey into that...lanolin is a natural emulsifier. once the honey is well incorporated into the lanolin, then you can add it to your slightly cooled melted lip balm. stir well and pour. HTH!

very pretty! what kind of labels are you using?

welcome!

this site is all about VCO www.tropicaltraditions.com it awsome stuff!

i know i don't post a whole lot, but i have some ez soy almost ready to pour...i was going to use coffee mugs...but it dawned on that the they are tapered so are narrower at the bottom than top...i bought eco14 for my mugs....do i still use those even tho the bottom is narrower than the 3.5in top. thanks so much for your help.

wow...i never heat mine that hot...i use ez soy from bittercreek and on their site it says to not heat higher than 175 and to add fo at 120...i heat to a max of 160 add fo at 120 and pour around 100.

thank you, mystical....wow...someone recognizes my name <blush>.....nice to see you too!

thanks for the link...will definitely check it out!