funnygirl

I order quite often from BCN, and they are nice and I rarely have problems. I did once order their EZ wick setter for single wicking and they sent me the one for double wicking instead. That kinda stunk because I had a HUGE order of 8 oz. jelly jars to make, and the multi setter wont fit in an 8 oz. jelly jar. I called them and they were nice, but they made me ship the multi setter back, which I expected, but they wouldnt ship me the correct one until after they received the other one. Needless to say, I got to wick 20 cases of JJ with an ink pen tube, cause I couldnt put it off for 2 more weeks. They did give me a credit for my shipping costs though. I can honestly say that I have dealt with a lot worse, and while IMO their CS is ok, GL has got them beat by a mile.

OMG! That sounds soooooo good! I gotta try that. Thanks for sharing!

http://www.greenleafcandlesupply.com/ The jars come with the lids, and you can choose which color you want for the lids.

Wow, my candle making part of the kitchen can finally become one with the food making part of my kitchen. I got my griddle for warming molds, leveling pillars and making pancakes, and my heat gun for smoothing out candle tops, making grilled cheese and dips. Love it!

I though Brenda brought in the 12 oz. also? She may not have them on the site yet, so you might want to call her and see. HTH!

That Rocks! Love it!

Looks great! I just started working with mottling wax. Never worked with paraffin outside of a container. I like the mottle candles cause each one is so unique. BTW, I will take wick suggestions for 2" and 3" paraffin pillars! LOL!

This is the only place I know that has it. http://shop.candlesandsupplies.com/candles/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=Candles&category%5Fname=Container+Waxes&product%5Fid=WAX%2DJ225 HTH!

The EVO dyes are getting some great reviews. They are made for soy, and unlike other liquid dyes they do not have an odor, or so I have read. I know GreenLeaf carries them. HTH!

Hmmm, mine does have a slight odor, but it's not bad or strong, just kinda smells waxy, LOL! I think I would definatly give them a call.

I am double wicking, and yes those are the 10 oz. keepsake jars. I tested A LOT of wicks for that jar. Was almost ready to give up. Im embarrassed to even tell ya what wicks I had to use. I had to wick WAY up over what alot of other people are useing in those jars. I really belive it has a lot to do with how high our humidity has been lately, cause I dont usually have this problem. I do know that this batch has 3% more soy, but thats not a huge differance. I imagine that what was giving you too deep of a melt pool with batch 4 will probably give you a more normal melt pool with batch 6. I can also say with 70/30 that it is more of a catch up wax. What I mean by this is that often when you have the right wick, you may think it's too small at first. But then on the second/third burn, it catches up and burns perfectly the rest of the way down. Not sure why that is, but it doesnt bother me, as I burn from top to bottom when I test anyway, to see how the candle performs overall. Hope this helps you out a bit. BTW, many people have had great success double wicking these jars with the LX 14-16.

LOL! I love it too! Especially for my private label customers, no frost!!!! Great wax, great customers service, what more could you ask for?

Well, I also use the EcoSoya PB for my tarts/votives. I havent noticed this smell. Is this something you notice when heating the wax? I have gotten an odor when I have heated it too hot, but it goes right away. If it's extreme to where you cant smell your FO's, I think I would have to call my supplier and see what they say, as this isnt a "normal" property of this wax, at least not in my experiance anyway. ETA: How much FO are you useing? I use on average 6% which is 1 oz. FO pp of wax. On my tarts I use a little more, depending on the oil.

Well, maybe the votive just cooled to fast to mottle? But it did have more pinholes on it than any of the others. Im pretty sure I do pour at around 180, as I heat to 195 in my presto pot, put into the pour pot, add FO and dye, stir slowly for about 1 1/2 minutes with a metal spoon, then pour slowly into a heated mold. By the time I pour it I know its gotta be 175-180. The best one I have gotten so far was by following the directions above, and then wrapped it in a towel to let it cool really S-L-O-W. That was a 2x3.5" and it took 4-5 hours to cool. Maybe cooling to fast causes the air bubbles to not have time to rise? Blah, I suppose there are so many different things that could cause this, as you all have said. Time to get into Mad Scientist mode and TEST some more, LOL!

Well, I poured it at 180 (a votive) into a clean mold (I clean my molds by heat gunning them and wiping them out) that was room temp. I ended up with absolutly no mottle and the entire bottom and sides are covered with pinholes. My directions say I have to heat up to 195-200 and pour into heated molds to acheive a mottle. ???????? Boy oh Boy, do I love testing, LOL! Im gonna try to add some steric, and bang the mold with a spoon to bring up any air bubbles. I appreciate you guys trying to help, and value your opinions.

Really, for mottling wax? To be honest, I had a little wax left in the pour pot after I was done, and I poured it in a votive mold that was not heated. It has more pin holes than any of the others. I wrapped one in a towel, so it cooled slower than all the others, and it has the least amount of pin holes. Not trying to say your wrong, it just seems like Im getting the opposite results.

Hello All! Im experimenting with mottling wax and am having a problem. Im useing GL's mottling wax, which by the way loves to mottle for ya, very beautiful. Im heating to around 195 adding FO and Dye, and pouring immediatly into super hot aluminum molds. Cooling slowly. I get great mottles, but something Im getting that I dont love is pin holes. I have noticed the slower I cool them, the less pin holes I get, but I get them regarless. I read somewhere on here last night about possibly useing a little steric to get rid of the pin holes, but it didnt mention how much a little was. Any help will be much appreciated.

I am working on my second case of batch 6 and it's the best so far. Sets up beautifully. I havent needed to change wicks, the throw is awesome, and it looks great. I did post some photos over on the GL forum showing the great colors I got. I even did some layers. HTH!

Ive gone through about 6 cases of this wax and havent detected any odor at all. I think I would definatly contact Brenda and see what she says.

GL FO's Violet Musk Maduro Chocolate Latte Indonesian Teak Antahala Vanilla Sarsen Cranberry Orange Spice Orchid Magnolia Gardenia Petals Key Lime Pie Candle Cocoon Vanilla Voodoo Creme Brulee Cafe Dew Drop Sultry Angel Fairy Dust & Twinkle Toes BCN Blueberry Muffins Twigs & Berries Ginger Fig Purely Herbal Spring Rain Natures Garden Apple Jack & Peel True Banana Red Hat Candle Soylutions Pumpkin Thyme Mossberry Mountain Retreat Lone Star Autumn Lodge Testing a WHOLE LOT more over the next few weeks so I will update. BTW, There are a lot more that throw great, but I just wanted to put up some of the REALLY STRONG one first.

All Steric Acid is made from Palm. Try it at about 2 TBS per pound of Palm wax. And remember, DO NOT REPORE IN THE MOLD. I can not stress that enough. Poke your relief holes, but remove them from the mold once they are completly cool, and then fill in the holes. If you dont, they will swell up inside the mold and you will not be able to get them out. BTW, I dont use the feathering wax, I use the large crystal palm.

I also second Candle Cocoon. I just started testing these oils, and indead you can use much less as none of their oils are cut at all. Their oils are also tested in soy wax. So far I have had excellent results with their Vanilla Voodoo, Creme Brulee Cafe, Dew Drop, Sultry Angel & Peony Whte Tea. There are many more I plan on testing from them, and all the ones I mention above have an extremly STRONG throw hot and cold. HTH!

I use GL's 70/30 and I use the 8 oz. Square Masons. GL has them on their website. If thats them I use mostly ECO 8's in that jar. Some really heavy scents I have to go up to an ECO 10, and a few very light scents I have to go down to an ECO 6. ECO 8 is a good starting point for testing that jar. If thats not the jar, then maybe you can give us a link to a supplier that does carry the jar so we can get a good idea of size. HTH!

So far in my undyed soy (464) I have tried 6 oils from candle cocoon and have had awesome success with them. They are VERY strong, and they come uncut super concentrate, so you dont need to use near as much. HTH!

Are you adding palm steric to your palm wax? I always use 2 TBS per pound of palm wax and mine just almost jump out of the molds. They do have to be completly cool also, or they dont release. Make sure the mold is cool to the touch before trying to take them out. Also, I pour to the top of the mold, wait for it to form a shell, then poke some relief holes. DO NOT DO A SECOND POUR WHILE IT IS IN THE MOLD! After the candle has completly cooled, I remove it from the mold, then drip wax into the relief holes and fill them level with the candle. Then I wait for that to dry and level them. Hope this helps you out some.